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TempesT

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Posts posted by TempesT

  1. Posted

    Hi team,

     

    XG ute had a woopsie on the weekend.

     

    Had a major failure of the heater core on the weekend that dumped the coolant. Had to leave the car 2 hours away and continue on my way. Heading over on the weekend and atempt to bypass the heater core by joining the inlet/outlet pipe work. 

     

    Anyone know the internal diameter of the inlet/outlet heater core coolant pipes? Intent it to throw a joining barb on the pipe.

     

    cheers lads.

  2. Posted

    hey guys thanks for the flood of help here!

     

    Yeh I may have jumped the gun looking at those aeroflows they are only a 351w.... woops.

     

    I am thinking the pavteks might be the go! Get their cam package to suite and an air gap dual plane manifold ontop of a freshly rebuilt bottom end should be healthy enough for the F100 without making it unstreetable! 

     

    AFD's would be the go if I wanted to chase more HP from this but its more of a weekend / work type street build!

    gerg, Outback Jack and Boingk reacted to this

  4. Posted

    well I'm doing a pretty basic build for the Mrs Effie 351c.

     Anyone used the bare Aeroflow heads? I know they are Chinese but should be some win over rebuilding the 2v's??

  6. Posted

    On 05/06/2018 at 6:57 PM, Thom said:
    On 05/06/2018 at 6:54 PM, gerg said:
    Oh I didn't know that. I assumed they'd be a carbon steel or something silly like that. I'll have to remember that when putting mine together. What clearance (if you remember) was the cone face to housing end?

    Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
     

    I'll have to look up in my service manual but from memory it was something like 3-5 mm

    Hey thom can you check that in your service maunual?

    Also ever had any issue taking the same ammount off the cones small end counter sunk surface (reducing the spline area for the axle)?.

  7. Posted

    Sorry i read that again and i wrote it like a dogs breakfast.

    Yes the .04" is a hypothetical amount taken from the end of the friction cone to stop it clashing against the housing (lets assume it leaves that gap between the cone and end of housing back within tolerance). I interpreted thom saying he adds about .01 to .015 additional to the shim. So he would add about a .055" spacer between the cone and spider gear?

    As for my diff i got today i should have written that i need to test the break away to check the lsd heath (and rotate it to check ratio) I found some numbers in another thread to check break away.

    gerg reacted to this

  8. Posted

    Ok quick question about thoms method of reshimming. So if you took .04" off the end to get your desired cone to hohseing gap youd make your shim .04 + .01 to .015 = .055"?

     

    Also any truth to the cones going soft over time and being no good for a reshim? (Sounds bullshit to me could imagine cooking /glazing them or hardening them but soft...)?

    Picked up another diff outa an xh xr6 today for $50. Supposed lsd and 3.45 but turning one axle the opposing turn the same direction. Ill presure wash it and pop the rear off tomorrow for a squiz 

    Valvebouncer reacted to this
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