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BGDAV

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Posts posted by BGDAV

  2. Posted

    ok so i bought a brand new 140 powermaster from rocket - i have since sent it back - these are the tests i have done - 

     

    just to clarify - tried two different multimeters, different batteries, two cars

     

    car 1 - red car (previously worked perfectly for alternator with wiring) 

    upgraded alt to fuse block with 6awg welding wire as spec via powermaster - also earthed alt to block (earth check confirms working) 

    battery charged for 3 days

    12.4v on battery, 12.4v on top of fuse block, 12.4v on bottom of fuse (changed fuse aswell) 12.4v on back of alternator 

    (according to powermaster if it senses .20v it will start working, does not need a sense wire ) ran to geelong and back, volts did not work, i checked via holley + via volts gauge, was lowering

     

    car 2- different battery

    put on f100 351 - bolted on , instantly got 19v on the battery , battery was 12.4v with car off - alternator regularor fucked? even if red car wiring was fked, it should of not ever got to 19v

     

    rule out red car wiring- old alternator 

    onto red car, disconnected the wiring, jumper leads from alternator to new battery on stand, 12.4v with car off, 12.4v with car on no change - 

     

    any other checks i missed? ive conacted rocket and sent it back, they are telling me its charging fine .. which i cannot explain, powermaster also said it was fked from my trouble shooting 

     

  13. Posted

    i had a bellhousing from dellow to suit a t5 from a ef into a cleveland .. dunno why they dont make them - honestly i had no issues with hte bellhousing from them years ago - but the latest one i got was designed and machined wrong and cost me 2k to fix their fuck up (i wouldnt risk it again)

    gerg reacted to this

  15. Posted

    i had a EF t5 behind my cleveland - was mild - and i didnt drive like a fuck stick, but i gave it a hiding - you need a 6cyl t5 and a custom bellhousing (dont go dellow spend the extra and get from malwood - itll save you money in the long run) then ull need a hyduralic clutch setup (standard xe pedal box) get the master cylinder bored to 2" as it will not suit a aftermarket slave cylinder - bit of fucking around but worth it

    SirkWhyXF reacted to this

  16. Posted

    from memory the t5z is a longer shaft ? will need a custom tailshaft - bellhousing on a windsor is smaller i believe takes a smaller flywheel and clutch - windsor will fit in a clevo bellhousing but not always the other way around 

     

    (i may be wrong but 90% thats correct about the clutch) need to take your flywheel and sit it in the bellhousing see if it clears 

    gerg reacted to this

  18. Posted

    just to add the 330 vs the 290 upc rotors ( i have the 330s) personally they stop well going from a 1 to 2 piston on the front - but if i had to do it again and aftermarket brakes where required id go the 290 - the 330 doesnt give you much benefit at all same calipers so technically the clamping surface is the same? may allow greater cooling down due to larger area? unsure but 330s are a pain to get rims in 17 minimum 

  20. Posted

    spoke to mcdonalds racing about the coil over in the rear issue - reckons he should have somthing that will work - would require converting to eye and running a bar with 2 bolts across the top thou - easy done really - going to go down in a few weeks to see what hes got that will work 

    SirkWhyXF and Crazy2287 reacted to this
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