BGDAV

surely that tunnel isnt that hard to make ... its a few folds

try emailing them for a cheaper freight quote, i got a full 3" cowl from jegs for alot cheaper after emailing them

we may have a gas tank you can have .. would fit in the back? @deankdx would know

lame who welds on guards now days

so gotta take them front guards off .. A pillar alive ?

its basically a unicorn

no dramas at all its a shit box, but its all fixable (from what we can see) it does have alot of good points, complete as a whole, besides tranny + carb needs everything touched but meh what 70s car dont, all sills gone, passenger door really fucked, passenger bottom roof is having issues, rear barn door, firewall has slight issues but could be alot worse wil be pretty cool when its done

could get a o2 wideband and tune your self would cost alot less i think

post up some pics of the effy! ive got a 76 my self

Can go 454 on my iron eagle block They have different ranges for dart Normal entry level block think handles 1k hp? Iron eagle 1500 Next level is billet All depends on your budget Time.you find a standard good block ud be in it close to a after market block and not be as strong

Tmyer is the best after market block out - you get what you pay for I have a 351w Sb 9.5 dart iron eagle - alot of money in it but good quality product alot of stuff needs tweaking to get it right 205 heads would be to small for 408 depending on cam I'd want 225 chi - scm if you have baller money Real talk if I did it all over again id of done a barra turbo bang for buck can't beat it - I've got alot of money into the old clevo does what it needs but costs alot rough cost 5k for the block, machining 1-2k prob adds up very quick if you have big power and need transmission, clutch, rear end etc

spark plug leads good ?

good result finding the wobble - always ngk in my book

similar setup to what im running, i used global west lower and upper, viking coil overs, rrs castor arms handles like a dream

coil

holley make a dizzy that works with a cleveland .. dunno if it works with a EF motor though, dual spark i think its called

join the fb group for holley sniper, will tell you alot of tricks to get it going

car looks good (Y) those self adjustors never work pos things

cut the grooves first as it will have a thicker plate .. thicker = stronger, if still doesnt work then fuck the thing off, getting a tack weld behind wll be a pain off ? grinder wheel 2 seconds to make the grooves fit to test it - could have the thing installed in 5 mins whatever works for the cheapest option and safest is my theory

you speak the dave way of life very well

grind the grooves on the side, if it still doesn't sit right cut it off - dont make work for your self if not needed its not the body of the housing it will be fine

i vote grind it

i had mine custom made, but you can use AN lines for the lines which i wish i did - look up commodore and astra pump they list the fitting you need

spoke to rocket - they say its charging correctly and now saying cause i have a fuse inline (which has 12.4 v either side of the fuse) and 12.4 at battery and alternator post - its my fault its not working .. i get their side of it, but i showed multiple examples of why its faulty including that its producing 19v which a alternator never should - hopefully ebay rules in my favour and rocket can get fked

ok so i bought a brand new 140 powermaster from rocket - i have since sent it back - these are the tests i have done - just to clarify - tried two different multimeters, different batteries, two cars car 1 - red car (previously worked perfectly for alternator with wiring) upgraded alt to fuse block with 6awg welding wire as spec via powermaster - also earthed alt to block (earth check confirms working) battery charged for 3 days 12.4v on battery, 12.4v on top of fuse block, 12.4v on bottom of fuse (changed fuse aswell) 12.4v on back of alternator (according to powermaster if it senses .20v it will start working, does not need a sense wire ) ran to geelong and back, volts did not work, i checked via holley + via volts gauge, was lowering car 2- different battery put on f100 351 - bolted on , instantly got 19v on the battery , battery was 12.4v with car off - alternator regularor fucked? even if red car wiring was fked, it should of not ever got to 19v rule out red car wiring- old alternator onto red car, disconnected the wiring, jumper leads from alternator to new battery on stand, 12.4v with car off, 12.4v with car on no change - any other checks i missed? ive conacted rocket and sent it back, they are telling me its charging fine .. which i cannot explain, powermaster also said it was fked from my trouble shooting