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dvfalcon

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Posts posted by dvfalcon


  1. As far as I know, Mustang T5s are the longer input shaft type (by 5/8", same as E-series Windsor) so only go with that type of bellhousing. They're also for a 157-tooth flywheel, whereas Clevos are 164. His box is just your garden variety 6-cyl type so has toploader/single rail input length.

    So the input shaft for a ba 5 speed (6 cyl)is the length I require. Just trying to get my head around these gear boxs, and why most recommend using a eb-d gear box.

    Thanks Dale


  2. I think the spline is to lock the pin and hinge on the door travel together to prevent the hinge wearing. Many years ago I tried a nut bolt conversion and brass self lube bushes but had to much movement, gave up but thats probably because at the time could by hinges new.

    Above quote could be a valid reason as well

     

    Dale


  3. If you want take a nut off hinge and the bolt out where the hinge meets the door and run wire between you may be a able to ground the light to get it to work.

    On the driver door you can pick a ground wire up off the main control switch yhat is a black wire that must be still grounded as your windows are still working?

    On left hand side you will have a ground on the cigarette lighter you can use

    Good luck Dale


  4. Alex xf door looms run under the front seats and up the underside of the console and join the main loom under the radio. You could a fractured wire in the flexing bit between the body and the door. Note the electric mirror join t he main loom in the corners and the dash on both sides. I have in the past dragge extra wires through the loom and retaped the flexing section. You can do it removing only yhe kick panel but a much easier and neater job removing the guard

    Dale


  5. IMO if your going to be welding it your going to burn the paint on the quarter. Its a shit of a spot and your going to find as soon as you start welding your going to be chasing the rust over a bigger area as the metals going to be thin all around there. The result will be a heap of chook shit looking welds made worse by the body deadener melting between the inner and outer quarter with the heat from the welds. Soooooo in saying all that if the quarter paint is going to get damaged and need painting I'd be drilling out the welds along the wheel lip and cutting a section on the outer to give you much better access to the inner. I'd almost bet my balls that if the inner looks like that the outer is going to be not far behind it. If your not prepared to paint the outer wire wheel the shit out of the effected area so its as clean as you can get it and seal that up and body deaden it.

    Im with bluxe good chance th rest is in the outer quarte guard lip, very common to find rust. Just finished outer lip on my car and one small hole tthe size of a 5 cent piece on the inner where you can see the hole

    Dale


  6. Alot of people carry out this mod a feww people get it passed somehow? To many people have done this conversion spend alot of money doing it being told it is possible and hit a brick wall, end up not getting rego. If I can give any advise put a v8 in it , but a late model winsor know rego issues. And no firewall mods with heater hoses etc.


  7. Does anyone know if the one piece BA falcon roof lining can be removed out the front doors without damaging it, and if it does can the front seats can stay in. I need to re glue the material on it as it is falling down, I once gave shit to a mate because is sigma did this in the early nineties I didn't expect this from ford?


  8. Be careful of the tyres grabbing I mine lowered with v8 springs out of a xb coupe I wrecked out, drove a round for years no issues. I got a wheel alignment done and the guy doing tweaked it and the the right hand tyre grabbed the guard only with decent pot holes. Put up with it as it wasn't all the time, six months later the upper wish bone fell out, cracked between the two mounting bolts and pulled the bolts through! The car never got fixed I wrecked it out.

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