dvfalcon

Thanks Dean what additive/ what  is the additive for

Dale

Just a question as some times alternative oils run better than what leaves the factory.

What oil grade should I be useing in a T5. It was originally out of Ed I was told going behind a cleveland

thanks in advance. Dals

Just now, deankdx said:

perfect! good explanation. 

couldn't get My head around it first up this morning that's for sure.

Hard to explain and to hard on the run to draw and post a picture on the run but as you suggested I would run a new wire and join it at the cluster plug and see how he goes.

deankdx

The oil sender works resistance to ground.the ground is though the body of the sender as resistance changes oil pressure gauge changes. This being the case the wire should run from the sender to the cluster with no interference from supply or earth

“””””With it unplugged at both ends, cluster check if it has +12v there( shorted to 12v).””””””””

cluster un plugged and. Wire off the oil sender

depending if multi meter or just a test lamp I would check if +12v is being introduced in to the wire, wire is shorted to +12 volt

Multimeter - place the black lead to earth and the red lead on the wire, if you measure 12v the the wire is shorted to +12volt. 

test lamp -  connect the clip on the lead to earth and touch the probe on the wire, if it lights up the wire is shorted to +12v

“”””””Check if is grounded to -12v (shorted to Earth)”””””

Multimeter - place the red lead to +12v and the black lead to the wire, if you measure voltage the wire it is shorted to the earth.

testlamp - connect the clip on the lead to the wire and and the the probe to +12v, if it lights up the wire is shorted to earth.

Just keep in mind Xd Xe have oil senders. And some dash looms have less wires(budget/basic loom)

have done many dash changes, instrument panel with no issues only ever had one loom that did’t have all the loom wires.

Do a resistance check from the from the sender to the  to dash plug. 

With it unplugged at both ends, cluster check if it has +12v there( shorted to 12v). Check if is grounded to -12v (shorted to Earth)

18 hours ago, gerg said:

Mostly F-trucks yeah, but some passenger models got the 240 I think.

As far as I know, locally assembled F-trucks got our 250 (and the V8s of course), but not the 240/300.

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
 

2 hours ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

does anyone actually have a 300 engine ? or where would you start to look in australia ?

Did these come in f100’s

4 hours ago, Daf said:

I've drilled out the original, stuck a 4mm bolt thru and fixed the original. Good as gold.

 

The plastic retainer clips are also different so when I did fit the new one in and lifted the rod up (yes there is some slack) it just popped straight out under pressure as there was 'nothing' holding it in place. 

 

The guy at Rare spares also told me that the rod would be "adjustable", however it's not.  Inside the door the rod goes down and simply hooks onto another lever on the inside of the lock mechanism, nothing adjustable in there.

 

Are all doors across the model range the same??  Maybe GL door handles are different to ESP to Fairlanes??

The top original handle in your  first photo the plastic clip that holds the rod on is from a xf (rod has a90degreee bend in it. Xd/Xe rod had a S shape bend in it and goes through the eyelet grommet that came that came on the new one. I would say the hole drilled in the new arm is to large for the xf attachment. You could always make up anew rod but I would just repair you old one

This if just the factory toe bar. The hardest part would be finding standard bumper irons

5/16???  

There is a mod you can do to thelate dizzy, they  bush the shaft at the base of the of the dizzy to add support.

Dale

Early cleveland blocks are imperial dizzy shaft, the black block xd onwards are metric hence the difference(outside shaft diameter). You can run a late model dizzy in a in a early block, but a early dizzy wil not fit a late block.

Dale

5 minutes ago, SirkWhyXF said:

Sorry Dale, are you saying the repo caps don't actually sit flush on some genuine esp wheels? Or that even the original ford caps did not sit flush on some of the wheels?

I am sure the repo ones are all good, ben would not release them I Would buy them If I needed them. What I am saying I have seen genuine esp wheels and caps that don'T sit flush?

Dale

Caps can not sit flush on some non machined esp wheels

Dale

Tibbe locks and barrel fit to xe  so xf should fit xg.

Dale

Not a fun job you have yourself there Alex?

Don't know for sure but I can tell you I have changed a xe steering column from coloum shift to non coloum and then fitted xg tibbe lock ignition using xg shrouds. So there may be slight differnce but not major

Dale

As you can see I've decided to run Globes on the corty. Sort of period correct and I love the look. Might not be everyone's cup of tea, but with the paint scheme I'm looking at I reckon they will look cool.

Especially with the big 15x8's and ET Street on the back.

Sent pm

Dale

Udidca302

As bear and 2redovers said,

I cut out and replaced wher I could, carefully welded up the pin holes this is a very complex area a lot of valleys and different shapes. I I ground and sanded back, coated in POR15 but could also use KBS and welded back together. I swear by Por15 and KBS rust paints and after using bit here used it on the rest of reapirs, in cabin and boot. If you have a look at the second photo you can see the shiney round circles. They are were the spot welds were. Very time consuming job and and if a decent car wasn't so hard to find this car would have been binned. Would I do it again. Yes! In fact if I was putting any money into another I would pull the top off coat it and it will last for ever

Dale

I did plenum repairs to my xe. Thought I had a little repair on lhs only . Once that was repaired discovered it was worse on the RHS.

To repar Rhs I removed halp the top. If I was doing another car any small rust in this area I would remove the the whole top, big job but peace of mind.

Dale

well, i bought a car with this arrangement also once..

and i have put screws in from the side(dont put them in too long or it will lock the ball up inside... i know this due to reasons..)

A few self tappers works a treat! If I remove gear box that a gearstick doesn't pull out or Once the self tapper mod is done, I pull the extention housing off.

The one at the front of the arm rest under the handle is about 8g (gauge) phillips head self tapper 3/4 inch long and the two underneath are about 14g Phillips head 1 inch long

Dale

If you have a broken one fix it by putting a nut and bolt through it

Dale

https://www.google.com.au/search?redir_esc=&client=tablet-android-samsung&hl=en-AU&oe=utf-8&safe=images&q=keyed+insert&source=android-browser-type&qsubts=1436424682805&action=devloc#imgrc=ziwcjZs5YPUobM%3A

KEYSERTS(KEENSERTS, LOCK IN INSERTS)

Not exactly what you have there but as a option you can try these. The hole is drilled and tapped larger than recoils, helicoil and may suit the hole you have left on the block. Once inserted the for pins get nocked in stopping it from un doing.

That looks like it may have been machined up an loctited in

Dale