PRO250

ill take a set to try mines chained in ATM so it does not climb out

im in a queue of some kind waiting,,,,,, waiting

Easy enough to fit took me about 4 hours to fit one in my grey car I have a poxy little B&M one in the ghia it took I fair bit longer as I made a new cover and recessed into the floor so the consol stil fit over it

 

battery would not be charged enough to keep it all going and the windows suck a fair bit of power

new battery time then as OEM dave said in his order

One of my clevos has 562 on the exhaust and it ran stock rockers for years I upgraded it to rollers cause it would bite the tip of the rocker and after 20.000km wore a groove into the tip was me just being tight it was a cheap engine it did not deserve good rockers

if you want a set of yella terra bolt on adjustables for a clevo PM me I have a set in the shed $350 if you want them. all my engines run 7/16 stud rollers now I cant use them   

Good brakes only slow you down mate

so its a points block it will likely do the same thing again

you can put it in but it will not last  

post the engine number we can tell you what the engine is out of

i really wanted a 650 vac or a 670 street avenger,but have you guys seen how much they are ? like $550-700 for a newie,holley no's that 650 size is the most popular and keeps the price high,also the 465 is very expensive as well as 289-302 owners use this as there best bolt on,a new 750 3310 vac is quite cheap,and even cheaper is the reco one i got.

Shame you cant read minds i have a almost brand new 670 in the shed i bought it with a blown up 250 under it and fixed the engine sold it and kept the carby i also have a 770 street vac ill never use its almost brand new as well i just wanted the manifold under it i like holleys and have boxes of them you can pick up carbys from swap meets if you know what your looking at i got a 465 a little while ago for $20 it needs throttle shaft bushes but other then that its mint shane will rebush it for me for about $60 so it will be a cheap carby for a 250 to flip

Holley prices are nuts atm im looking at a new carby for my blown thing and its almost 1400, the carby on my ute was under 500 not long ago its now a 800 buck carby to buy. i seen a 650 hp pumper at the bendigo swap not long ago been converted to a gas throttle body it cost $100 cost 300ish to get metering plates bowls and pumps for it and now its whats on the ute just a hit on the summit website and it was completed why somone would use one as a gas TB i do not know but im happy it was less then half the cost of a new one and they look 500hp them carbys

When running them as a pickup purple and orange wires on your MSD. or a module using the white wire? if your running a module I think your using the white wire

If hooked up as a pickup it does not matter witch way the wires are, it will not hurt the pickup it will either run off song or not at all if it does this do the wires the other way

If its just hooked up as the white wire its still red to red an green is where the black will go

Your not running a electronic dissy in a points block? as they have different shaft size it will work but it flogs the bush in the dissy and causes the issue your having where the trigger wheel touches the pickup causing a miss or backfire, it will aso break the trigger wheel in extreme cases. I only ask as its a pre XD car in your stig it may have a points block and will do the same thing again 

I run one in the white car as you cant see the tune on LPG and being boosted its important that its it least close to right. It floats in the 14s driving low 12s when your into it and just bumps 11s at the top of the revs on max boost and 18s off the throttle. It will do this doing 40kmh as the throttle is so far shut it goes lean ive tried to step my rod to fix it but ive not solved it yet it just makes it hard to drive real slow and I never drive it that slow anyway it just shits me the guage flashing at me going  "Danger to manifold" LOL

NA fuel cars I tune by feel and althow not as reliable as it use to be looking at the plugs. a big clevo tells you want it wants and you just tune with your bum ear and foot I never needed one before racefuel or LPG or I did not have anything boosted for them you kind of need them althow I know a few that still don't run them they still do the bum ear foot method

while where talking about it my ute and grey car run in the low mid 70s range jetting in the fronts and low 80s in the back these are fair clevos with largish camshafts, what are your cam specs? maybe your jetting the carby up because its to big? my brown car use to do that tll I fitted a smaller carby I wanted to use my super duper 700 holley but ended up fitting a povo 600 to it it did not look shiny but it worked much better and used much less fuel. Just a idea as you may be having the same issue


 

If building one for performance you will swap and change parts anyway so there is no real gain on a lower reving engine as far as blocks go. But if you want to turn it past 6500 the XF block is better as far was you can just drop a EF crank into it under 6000 I would not bother unless it was for a race car or something that sees revs for a while at a time

Heads again you just chop and change to suit what you want and the comp ratio you are looking for. The old XDs have a open chamber one the later ones have a smaler chamber one, some will say some are better then others but other then chambers to suit the comp ratio your looking for there all about the same give or take in a few places

Your budget is decent id consider boost at that budget, mine cost less then that and made some nice numbers and real good TQ at no revs you could do 250 300rwhp with that budget if you can spin the spaners yourself mine runs LPG and I did mine for about 3k but the turbo hotside was 2nd hand but that was cooler piping cooler so on and a LPG system that would support a turbo setup. But as has been said a barra turbo even a stock one will stomp most NA 250s back to the stoneage and is a off the shelf engine you can buy anywhere and it would drive like a new power plant and be good on fuel all the pros of a newer engine but a old school car  

folklaw crude picture but it was all analog back then even cameras

ask the boys at injection perfection about this car it was one of the toughest street driven crossys around for a long time it did a fair few dyno comps when i was doing it and always whipped me by over 40rwhp min this was one of the cars that made me switch to webbers. i could not aford this setup it was over $6500 at the time no pumps or fuel system just TBs and computer that was more then my engine was worth
 

Pump fuel crank trigger 6 coil packs and injection perfection TBs did over 300 at the feet back then and under 6000rpm to was very good as most could not pull more then 260 back then I couldn't that's for sure

that car died a painful death in a housefire and is nomore real shame had big MPH for a little 6 with 3,5 gears and only a handful of passes under its belt run 11s first time out on a stock corty rearend

to much reading in here my head hurts

all I can read is blar injector electronic blar blar cant find anything refering to a turbo so im out

good looking TBs but jonstons did this in the late 90s 11.7 and driven to the track not bad for a 250 back then

I bought a ute like that 84 XE ute was a full povo not even a radio has that trim

I have a ED diff LSD in 4.11s blow the brakets  off it and fit leaf pads and it will work in yours

use to be on my XR before I boosted then I want back to 3.0s so it would not blow the tyres away as it came on boost

I cant help with this buy my white car did the same thing i looked at it a few times but could see what the issue was I fixed mine with gasresearch a 5yo could tune that shit, must be one of the reasons I use it

you have fitted a whole new system? shame you did not say i still have all mine in the shed, you could of had it as ill never use it but if a job ever came in that needed any of it it would just be there to use

I must say ive never kept a valve train in order just blow it apart with a rattle gun put it all in a box

are you staying cast head? you want one? I have one out the back new guides fitted seats cut for 1.9s and 1.6 valves and its machined for screw in studs I robbed the valve train out of it as it has single piece single groove valves I just chucked it in the back of a wreck you can have it if you want it

I could fix the miss in a weekend no more fuel straight LPG

that rings bearings a little machine work  and a 3582r and look out 6litre dummydores

 

you can look for the issue but I think you have found it, upto you how you go about it. like I said most crossy don't run on all cylinders when there that low



 

111psi is fubar, most crossys no longer run on all banks that low and would also be the miss it has

I would not be chasing issues till you fix that the engine is never going to run any good as its about dead 

and im very surprised that engine does everything you say it does cause that's dead as far s a crossy goes mine had more comp then that with 2 broken comp rings and a side off a piston and it still run on 6cylinders like that was just a chugger out the breather pipe as it would just blow the comp past the rings into the sump

a happy good stock crossy has around 180PSI across the board a few PSI drop is fine as theres a fair bit to a engine, but that things 28psi down from 1 to 6 id almost say the engine had a broken comp ring on 1 being that low or a rather large valve issue

I have a 120.000km crossy in the shed no head $250 if you want it, fit a head (little dave will sell you a brand new one ill ask him if you want. and a $100 for a gasket set and some valve springs and dump it in the hole

or build a new one. a stock crossy cost very little to build last slapper I did cost $670 and about $400 in bits I already had as I have boxes of crossy bits

RIP little crossy
  

 

 

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gold old roads slip and slide and a bit of tyres are worn out

new tyres and go try again tomorrow

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHA bottom line  

id get a wizzor C4 but you can still bolt the crossy bell to the clevo c4 input shaft older c4s where 24/24 in there input shaft and later ones 24/26 either run a 24 spline convertor or swap the input shaft and run a 26 spline convertor