PRO250

Use a cutting compound and a buff. Cut it back with 2000 and run the buff Im using a 3M cutter atm much better then the G3 cutter I was using White is super forgiving color it will be hard to ever see where you have been once you have done it

As a auto it will be ok for a while, if running street tyres if its a spooled diff it will die fast if you give it a hard time I ran a 3.9 limmo in one of mine with a engine making 230rwhp and it held up ok I busted the coupling once and twisted the axle ends twice but it would unload the tyres easy under 70kmh On slicks they do not last andys TE makes 170hp and is auto on slicks its killed a few diffs now manual ive smashed at least 5 diffs and more then 30 axles they hold up ok on street tyres as soon as they hook up they bust everything

I have a 200 rod engine in my shed basic engine little 208 hydraulic cam 10 points of comp 4 barrel no rollers very basic but a running engine done about 5000km I also a built 200 rod engine but this is more a drag/super tough street engine very large solid cam rollers ported head its in bits built short head in a bag but its all there it did 240rwhp untuned and killed a oil ring so I built it again but I have clevos so its still in the bag And I have a set of +20 acl race pistons but no ring set Ive seen the light and if its not boosted or blown it sits in a bag HAHA

And who pulls a trailer at 3000RPM? LOL kids Have you driven both with 2 ton straped upto the back up the hills out of Melbourne? the 6 does it in 2nd gear the v8 chugs past in top using half the fuel cause its making torque where you can use it Like I said people use a V8 to tow trailers for a reason. Same torque at half the revs you only have to drive the two and you can feel the v8 have a heaps more torque much lower down then the 6 does but I speak for real world experience not what I read in a book

But stick a trailer on it and see what happens and how much fuel it uses 1 thing a V8 will do better then a 6 is pull. it will also be better on fuel doing it. V8s have low end grunt and that is why people that tow stuff use V8s or turbo diesels cause they have good flat lowend torque Its funny the 6 is faster could it be cause its 300kg lighter, geared shorter, and revs a 1000rpm harder nar that cant be it Injected V8s are shit on fuel over a 6? LOL beacon didn't we drive your lane to the summernats on 1 tank? show me a 6cyl that will do any better im keen to see it

id use a stock unmarked head for boost so your comp ratio is low id look at the engine 40psi drop in a bank is a real stuffed valve or a broken piston ring when mine toasted a ring it still had more comp then yours rule of thumb is 3psi boost is 1 point of compresstion so 9 points comp and 6psi boost is about 11 to 1

How is it even running right under 100psi? 60psi is so low it would not even fire on that bank properly That's you miss mate the engines stuffed

What happened to that car? it was that tough looking black XF ute

They look good. will they work I don't know, but hey they look good

On 5psi do you need big injectors? ive done 256killerwasps on au injectors and a 023 pump on 10 psi I don't think you have to go bigger do you know for fact you comps down? a babyed 250 could be ok. comp check it before righting it off but if the comp is down just boost it more all the turbo does is make more comp The tank setup I did not know a wagon has a lift pump, run that pump into a external fuel pump like a 044 and it will be fine and swap the fuel reg to a rise rate one But you will need something to control all of it wheres crazy? he has good info on the factory ECU

The miss I think will be on the idle side and id do coil leads plugs and all the tune up stuff but if its not there at oprateing temp it will be a coolant temp sensor and I would not even bother its not going to pull fuel away from it if anything it will add it all this after a comp test and check of engine condition but the ECU will never keep up with the turbo so why even bother with it? The pump only pushes fuel id do it as part of the conversion its working fine and will not be the cause of the miss ill put money on it Ill be offering advice all night as im to sick to do anything else and the DVD boss will not let me watch something good so you may want to run away LOL

It seems like a waste of money if your boosting it id put up with it and buy injectors to suit boost and bosch 044 pump or maybe a 023 intank as you don't plan on pushing it Turbo corty runs au injectors but it runs a microtech so I would not know if it would upset how yours will run If this is not you daily drive you cant boost it now if you need to buy these items?

My commodore had a wood wheel they payed it out all 20k of it, it was a VB dunnydore and i got to keep the car, this went thru the courts but as she hit me and my car was not insured (to many mods under 25 you know the drill) The black car had a momo wheel it got payed out but was only a 5k car but at the time cortys where worth $800 for a ok regoed one I bet they do not care unless its a 30K + car and you left the keys in it. A 1500 buck car they will not even look at it they will look at the 50k car you crashed into Not road worthy and they will not pay you? maybe if the brakes don't work, but cause of a steering wheel i doubt it. But a 1500 car will it road worthy? I don't think it will be, anything under 5k will likely be a shit heap All this but your budget is $1500 bucks for a car? ill put money they could find 40 things worng with a "Road worthy car" to not pay you out if it was in a crash. will they even look at your $1500 car not a chance its a road worthy not a condition report if it has dents a non standed wheel I bet they would not care even if you run over someone Is this why everyone drives stock white crapodores?, Every ones living in fear of getting into a crash?. Im looking into it to much Im going to bed

like a car insurer would give a crap about a $1500 car with a 2nd hand steering wheel that seems a little silly since there would be a ton of airbag cars on the road today and some you my not be able to by a new wheel for

To much talking that manifold would be fixed now if it was mine and matt would have done the welding LOL well if adam was not at home are we at the maching shop machineing it yet panko? boost it common

Just from a $$$$ point of view id go the EB to there a good drive to death car Dougie is just a show off. He has never touched the thing bar a coil fuel pump and intake gasket, he pulled a big tandem with it for years and the things still going. But theres a point where good luck starts to get a bit cocky he should be spending a few bucks on it but hey you could touch it and it might fall apart

The crank with the flange will go in the 84 block The other ones look to be either a rope style one or as said a later metric crank Easy way to tell is try and screw a imperal flywheel bolt in it, if its a no go its a metric crank, if it goes in its the old rope style crank Selling a crossy in bits? unless its something real good you will find a skip is the best place for it but that's only my views I see you don't have the main caps on the block? do you have the caps that match that block? no caps the block will need line honing this is another cost most would not do in a basic build always keep the main caps that belong to that block you cant mismatch them So your not boosting yours now?

Run a drill thru the holes so you can get your bolts in and machine the face flat so it seals on the head face The manifold is just split pulse manifold does it even matter its cracked? just machine the face of it as well and go again if its not leaking. I have a cast manifold on turbo corty I think there rubbish, id just make a log for it cheap as and if it shits itself make another one

I already have the rotors for both of mine

We did not sway you but it will looks mint never the less

Id go with the silver classy but not to look at me Say hi to my buddy wes while your there, ask him when he is coming out of hiding LOL

So no turbos you make baby jesus cry No doseing for you then

You can make 300hp and 450nm on a stock engine theres no need to build one Go for a run in a boosted crossy before making your mind up. The cost of a built basic 4 barrel engine with a cam rollers ported head would setup a turbo engine. My white thing would keep my ute and its a 5k engine just In parts and 100cubes bigger then a crossy I was anti boost for a long time to, but its easy power and its something that should be considered that or a,,,, cough,,,, cough LS

I may get flamed for this but ill say it anyway BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOSSSSSSSSSSTTTTTTTTTTT the fooker It will pull the 2.77 gears like 3.9s and will put a built sub 5000rpm engine to shame, and if you keep it under 12 psi it will last and make more numbers and double the TQ im all for a tough crossy I have heaps of them but a boosted stock engine will keep up with most of them and at less cost and if you lunch the engine get another one and go again I did the NA thing for a long time but I now have a few boosted crossys and they will out pull any NA engine at half the RPM with much longer gearing, my white car pulled harder then my ute and under 4500rpm on a dead stock engine with valve springs. You can make them move NA but you will never have one that drives as good, my white thing off boost its like a stock engine and good on fuel, well gas Just a option to think about and if you willing to put 3 4k into a engine bay its something to consider

I ran a bosh 023 in my xr6 it was keeping up at 254killer wasp