PRO250

the carby and manifold is aso a issue but in saying that ive never run a stock carby and manifold with any camed up engine so I cant give you much input on that ando? rob sell this guy your 4barrel and holley?

Comp ratios to low it may have other issues but that's one of them How can you pull it into gear as a auto? that cams way large for a stock stall convertor and 2.77s man it will have legs

What gearbox diff gears? you need on the shorter side for gears with that cam webbers not upto the task but it should at least work till it runs out of puff and whats the comp ratio? you need as least 10to1 for that cam to work any good 20cc slugs and E1 head I doubt will have anywhere near that ive just done a slapper for gramps and I had to stick the slugs out of the block to get it to 9,8 but im using a camtech 528s and it will have a 600 on it but ive done pleny of 650 combos now and all have worked to some extent but I always make sure it had comp ratio over 10 and what valve springs you need good springs with that cam or it will not rev and how much advance does the dissy have? if its at 18 now pull it back 6 or 8 and see if it comes to life 250s love timing but unsorted I think its got to much it will be going past 32 if its not been fiddled with if you need more help stick up more info

Single cam 4litre yours is not a single cam 4litre dude NA SOHC engines are shit ive not yet seen one in a falcon cut better then high 13s unless its force fed. but I tell you what ive seen some shit hot numbers that cant be backed up on the street on the track there was a bloke out here that said his had 197rwkw mine would wipe the floor with it before I even fitted a J3 to it I miss that car but not working on it

did you get a PM off me RAW? I have a built 4litre in the shed its a mock street fighter engine all that's been talked about in here it has PM if you might want it I don't think ill use it again NA has nothing on boosted so I no longer need it

200killer wasps is a fair ask my engine was a fuill built engine and tuned by the best boys in VIC and it did under 170killer wasps hell it only did 238 boosted But the end of the day budget will tell you how much power you will make id bang the cam in and drive it. funny this thread made me pull my blackXR out and wash it good looking car ford got these cars right

Fastest NA 4litre in aus lives and built in Victoria 12s and a big fat falcon and manual to boot I gave up trying to make a 4litre fast unless there boosted you will not even get one into the 13s unless its on NOS boosted or some how force fed, good engine NA cause you cant put much cam in them, and boosted they blow up unless there built engines either way you have to spend money, its just sad

not in a 4litre rob there a to new to have power althow dan went 12.6 a few weeks ago stock engine and i mean stock wrecker engine but a lot of bottle cough boost it,,,, cough boost it

Hey guys can you still get the round crimp bits for the factory wiring plugs?. Ive almost finished the wiring on my ghia and want to use a factory plug you know to keep it factory HAHA Was thinking about hunting Jcar Monday to see if it can find something, but wanted to ask if anyone knows of a place Another thing 0 guage wire how would one run a pole you can split the main power wire? you know something that screws to the body so you could just unplug the harness when I wanted to lift the engine. Im just looking for ease to work on later in life now that things got so much stuff in the engine bay it would be nice if it would still be easy to work on

ill sugest a turbo with that LPG that will pull jesus off the cross

If breakage keep occurring revise driving style better yet auto

A nice sprung 5 puck organic will be fine for your engine this is a more street race clutch and a very positive take up but will last a long time, I feel a 6 bolt pressure plate is a must so you don't pull the pressure plate off

Im a fair way away but ill have the handles and rods I can fold the rods in half to fit in a post bag and you straighten them at you end if theres nothing up there yell out

Ronny how many KM has your engine in your XE done? how much racing and street driving has it done? its been around for a long time when me and my mate where racing full on it was around and that's been a fair while now since my grey cars been put away I looked at your test wagon does the drill even load up In that test? a pump in a engine that's together wpuld almost be deadheading and would fry a 18volt electric drill very fast cause it cant turn it how much more force in does it take to turn a HV pump vs a stock one ando?

How much oil does the HV move in 1 min compaired to a stock pump ando?

I thort 60 70 PSI of oil pressure is the norm for a clevo? both mine run about 90 95 psi when there cold and 60 to 70 always while driving I seen towtoy it droped under 60 when I was in NSW a little while ago and I flipped out and changed the oil and even cut open the filter to look it over Ive always been told 10psi for every 1000rpm so 70psi for a engine that can turn to 7000rpm

I run hv pumps in 2 of my clevos and my old xr8. The wezors done over 160.000km in my ownership heaps of stupid shit, towtoys done over 32.000 now, and the grey car about 50.000 over the last 8 years and that engine had been around a fair while before I got it. If its In there id just run with it, even more so if its just a streeter that never sees heaps of RPM for a long time, it already has a 7.5 litre sump on it I don't think it will empty that in a hurry and clevos have tons of drain holes A easy way to see what its doing is make a rocker cover with a tall top and cap that unbolts/unclamps hold the engine at RPM and see what its doing none of mine will fill my made up cover and ive held it at RPM for a while and it never fills the cover up much past the gasket (this was more the drain holes are not as big as stock clevo cast heads and I wanted to make sure it was not going to cause a issue with that engine) so I fitted that cover to see. My cover is a stock cover with the top hacked out the top extended about 4 inch with 2 rods welded into it to hold a clear perspecs cover I used it for look at valve train things adjusting rollers and In towtoys case oil drainback. you cant always see thru the clear bit as oil will splash at RPM but its more a rocker adjusting tool then anything else bit I used it for that

Im all for stick shift but if there was a auto I could run behind towtoy that would work when I pull a car trailer it would be auto Ask any racer,,,, any real racer it dose not matter if you smash a box and go auto, winning is winning

my old corty use to run a 262@50 cam and it would still pull the 2.92 gears no worrys I went to 3.9s and it was just a tyre turner and slower at the track on street tyres I dot agree or disagree with anything said but like rob said just try them and see what you think my white car has 2.77s and will lay rubber in all gears and its cam is like 190@50

Or get a older 250 hydo bellhouseing and just run a clutch master like all v8 x cars run and presto hydro clutch conversion. I do these for cortys as cooking a clutch cable is always a issue with those things

But im a nuffy and need pictures and detailed diagrams and advice on how to hold my toung this will work with a MSD BTM yeah?

link to that thread again with the pictures of setup im about to do this to the white car

To small if you wanted a cheap way and a ok gain go a M90 on a 4 barrel there sill to small but it would see a ok gain on a stock engine

Sad news, with some luck another carton will see it alive again

I don't think he did he bought a dunnydore please rob you want ants dragnwagon you know you do in the land of Cortina the wagons are started to be wanted. if that was in vic id own it and beacon would be begging me for it