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Valvebouncer

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Posts posted by Valvebouncer

  3. Posted

    Nope VB is in the money. We had an RTV with the same problem. Running rough and couldn't solve it with coil packs, blah blah until Ford techs came to our shop and one of our blokes saw one of them sneekily lay his hand on the computer and it would go away. Just the warmth of that was enough to make a difference. ECU done under warranty. When they went from EEC V to Delphi that was a step backwards in reliability.

    Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk


    I wish I was in the money!!
    gerg reacted to this

  4. Posted

    Or even attempting to get the security bolts undo to remove the ecu.
    I have done it on a ute that was miss firing and as I poured the water it stopped the miss. I did another 20,000km in that ute with no further problems

    Ando81 reacted to this

  7. Posted

    Sorry, only just saw this post. BAs were reknowned for dry solder joints in the ecu which causes random misses. Boil the kettle and pour it over the ecu, it will soften the solder inside and fix the joints. Be wary changing spark plugs in these as they snap in the head. The first of them had problems with the timing chain tensioners, you hear it clattering on a cold start up and if it is really bad the noise will always be there.

    Ando81 reacted to this

  8. Posted

    I ment make a list of everything
    You need he has everything
    Rad hoses trans cooler and what else to make up pallet.

    Sent from my HUAWEI Y360-U03 using Tapatalk


    I have absolutely no idea what you mean
    0e7fe5681a308038a2f333133d36ccb8.jpg

  11. Posted

    Hyundai iloads like to spit the turbo, after about 100,000km - usually taking the engine with it.
    $10k min, for a used engine too.
    A work colleague had it happen to theirs... 
    The internet is littered with similar stories.

    It's a pity, as they are comfortable vehicles, by all other reports.


    Totally utterly agree. I can’t tell people strongly enough to avoid buying a icrap. The cost of parts are just astronomical and every time something goes wrong it requires major work. People use these to make their livelyhood, it won’t do that sitting there broken down.
    CHESTNUTXE, bear351c and Slow250XC reacted to this

  13. Posted

    take a look at the "fix"  for the bypass coolant pipe that usually runs under the manifold and around the back of the engine to the waterpump.. 
    if you can't spot it, look for the 45degree pipe sticking up behind the thermostat housing and near shock tower on left..
    wonder what they have done at the water pump side?
     
     
    b724a839b274d815bb14e817655f810b.jpg

    I saw this too. I’m guessing it doesn’t have a thermostat in it as the water won’t circulate with it shut. It looks like a part fix for a leaking heater core. It looks to be bypassed in other photos.

    That other thing is definitely an electro magnet. I’m curious to know where the wires go.
    deankxf reacted to this

  15. Posted

    I’ll have to take a photo of the tyres we have on the Xr6 . They were $105 each for 245/40/18 . They are the stickiest quietest and hardest wearing tyre we have had. We went over corrugated roads in the Pilliga ranges that were notorious for cutting up tyres, we had nothing. I looked up reviews on them and the only bad review said they were no good in snow and ice ( derr). They are Chinese made and come out of the same factory as Dunlop’s.

     

    Edit:

    ee700af08d7b2f079694b59d7c47c20c.jpg

    1b422c0bdac417b9158b39e9dd6249cc.jpg

     

    Sold by Beta tyres in girraween ( around the corner from vg auto paints )

    gerg reacted to this

  16. Posted

    if i wanted a rear wheel drive van that didn't chop your legs off in a crash(like my Mazda will)  i'd get a Hyundai iLoad. 
    i decided for what i wanted(potential Oz wide tourer) that it needed to blend in when i parked it... old Transits are so rare now they will stand out no matter what you are doing.. they are also fairly wide
    i'd consider a newer transit, but maybe with an engine conversion(seen them with V6 commodore engines, and at least one was getting a barra conversion. )

    Our work leases them (I don't work on them) but they seem like a good thing. Fairly predictable Korean quality: cheap and dependable.

    Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk


    They are a ginormous hunk of shit. You are better off blowing your money on drugs and alcohol. At least you won’t suffer while wasting your money.
    Slow250XC, GspecZL, Mr Polson and 1 other reacted to this

  18. Posted

    Il have maybe two unwanted crossflows to get rid of haha...definitely one anyway. Mine wouldnt cost you anything like $100 either. (I thought that's what a decent runner was worth these days haha)

    A decent runner in Sydney is more than that, a rebuildable engine would get $200. A good runner is $400- $500. It sounds like you could do with some extra $$$ after reading your thread so don’t sell yourself short.
    Defective and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this

  21. Posted

    I think the latter is the case here. You'll never flow more than what the tiny injector tip is capable of. I think the reasons why people might run them is:
    1) they look pretty
    2) can be cut/drilled for any length, injector size or bore spacing
    3) you can configure fuel inlets/outlets however you want.

    Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk


    I don't known much about injection but as I ashom bigger objectors the bigger the fuel that why I run the holley I can ajust my air to fuel mix.

    Sent from my HUAWEI Y360-U03 using Tapatalk



    I was thinking to flow more for bigger injectors but then again, I have no idea how restrictive or free flowing the standard rail is.

  24. Posted

    If you are going to do this properly buy a permaseal mlsr head gasket. The mlsr gasket is designed for turbo or nitrous applications. I’d go head studs rather than bolts too but if you are going bolts don’t cheap out.

  25. Posted

    Hello Mr. Valvebouncer, I've had the Head Tested-All Good & Shaved.Now I've seen on e-bay Permaseal Head Gaskets of Varying $Prices,Some as low as say $90..0 up to $383.00 for a AU Head Gasket.Are there some gaskets made in China with the Permaseal name or is the Genuine Aussie one the Most Expensive? Also I Would like to go using Proper High-Tensile Head Studs,Washers & Nuts But some of these are Pretty Wocking High Dollar Like Up to $50.00 a Stud w/- washer & nut.I don't know how much the Permaseal Bolts are but I suppose they'll have to do.I'll speak to my Local Repco man today.Would Grade 8 Studs be up to it do you think? Anyway,Thanks for any info Gentlemen and Enjoy Your Day!Searley!

    G’day Searley, definitely use a permaseal AU mls head gasket and follow the torque specs the gasket comes with, NOT ones in a workshop manual. I use permaseal head bolts too, they will have the part number HS041 stamped in the top of them. Anyone willing to do that gains my trust. Genuine ford ones are no longer available. I personally don’t like Nason as I have seen some of their head bolts fail like the originals and some stretching but that is my personal experience. The choice is up to you.
    Be careful with the eBay Seller’s, I couldn’t find one that would package a permaseal head gasket and permaseal bolts, all I found packaged in Nason head bolts so just ask the question before purchasing.
    Outback Jack and Thom reacted to this
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