Valvebouncer

Sorry for the late reply, I couldn’t find your thread for a while!
Passenger side


Drivers side

Honestly though, I’d keep the au radiator if it fits. Mine had some weird bogandore radiator that didn’t have the right side inlet and outlets.

Thought that too about vacuum hoses. Triple checked them all. And the idle speed motor would be what? Lol


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It’s on top of your throttle body held down by 10mm bolts.
From what you were saying this is a new fault since changing the inlet manifold, I highly doubt it’s a computer problem if you disconnected the battery. UNLESS you have a prexisting fault such as a leaking capacitor so the computer wasn’t able to hold a memory when you disconnected the battery. Honestly it sounds like someone yanked on the manifold too hard to get access to the gasket and pulled apart the wiring harness internally.

Either the idle speed motor isn’t plugged in properly and working or you have a vacuum leak. Perhaps a loose vacuum hose for the heater controls?

I’ll have a dig around, I may have a spare step. Otherwise I’ll measure up the ones on my ute

Here, this may help.

Mine also had the wrong radiator and hoses when I bought it too so ignore those but it does show the brackets and placement.

Nice work mate. Nothing like kicking off a Friday with a foreign order

I personally don’t know, someone else might. Why don’t you give it a crack and see what fits? Let us know how you go.

as far as i know, to prevent valve bounce. 
why do they put heavier springs on boosted engines? 
 

Yes, they prevent getting my nickname .
Heavier springs are to help over come boost pushing on the back of the valve and holding it open after the lobe has passed.

It’s probably either rust around the window like you said or the sealant has dried out shrunken and cracked allowing water in

You'd still smell it I reckon

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True. Knowing my luck the wind would blow it straight back to my place.

MIght be worth mentioning a few handy hints on how to get rid of the smell of fucking diff oil to. That shit stinks and doesnt go away!

Drain it on the neighbours lawn?

Go speak to Jack at Kc’s engine reconditioning in castle hill.

Only comment I have is keep going!
I’m in the same boat as you, mechanic by trade but diffs and gearboxes/transmissions are a specialty area which I only know bits and pieces about.
If you need any info from workshop manuals let me know, I have half a library

Awesome mate!

I could be wrong but I thought the xh firewall was still the same as all x series Fords?? If so it will fit. You will need a factory manual computer too or a j3 chip to get it to idle properly ( you can manually adjust the idle solenoid and disconnect it but this will make for a rough idle when the a/c cuts in )

If that xh panel van is a factory manual and still a solid vehicle I’d think twice before tearing it apart. Have a look at the prices panel vans are pulling these days. You could sell it whole, pay for your conversion and buy a turbo kit too.

Try WASP mate. This is my second set. Last set been in 6-7 years.
Thats best available here standard.
Moog would be the best stockers but bit more exxy.

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I just bought myself a wasp brand pitman arm then realised 2 things. 1) my puller is too small so I’ve bought another one 2) the kit they sell with ball joints also includes a pitman arm so I’ll end up with a spare!

Nah the steering wheel isn't quite straight. Trust me, the tyres were wearing extremely well for a V8
 
Also the guards taper in toward the front of the car very slightly
 
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Oh Greg, I was having a laugh, I meant your feet!!

We once had an apprentice at Kenworth whose boots were worn on the inside from dragging his feet so he had tonnes of negative camber so naturally he ended up with the nickname of “datto “ after the 1600 when lowered

You need a wheel alignment. The amount of toe out you have is insane!!

That’s normal. The outer sides bond to the head and block then the middle layers can more and slide as the engine heats up and in some cases overheats ( over expands ) but doesn’t blow out the gasket.

Replace the battery if it hasn’t already been done.

Not as far as I know, it was all or nothing

I'd say yes to alot of it...
Case in point -
I noticed that my XH Panelvan, has the coolant level sensor plug, taped back on the loom, under the header tank.
This suggests that other mid-level (fairmont is mid-level) connections may be present, within the low-level engine bay wiring looms.

Xh was different to other Fords. There are 4 harnesses in total. 2x6 cylinder, 2x8 cylinder. You either had everything or nothing. If you optioned abs you also got cruise control
and airbag.

Being an older car it might be worthwhile to run a new earth cable from the battery to the engine block.

Speak to Rob (Slydog) he has his triples up for sale and he has a lot of experience tuning them.

That display is set by the inhibitor switch on the side of the trans. You must have a fault in it.