Valvebouncer

instead of thread jacking we will start a new one on windsors

That’s not a bad idea! The amount of different models get confusing. Even more so when you start venturing into aftermarket parts, ARP make 16 different types of cylinder head bolts!

He has me covered by 50-40hp NA 

Glenn Wazzmoth from Ayr. And not saying anymore.

Sounds like a challenge!

Can you guys shed some light on what Wazzy is working on or will it ruin the surprise?

Any lapping and cleaning up of the valves and seats will be better than in was before, good job.

How do the exhaust seats look?

those valve seats and valves!!!
Imagine if you didn’t remove the valves and slapped the head on, all that rust and scale would have gone straight into the engine and destroy it.

Can you cut the tow bar bit off with a grinder so you are just left with the brackets?

At least it will be done properly.
Raise your price.

Yep they are bad. Try greasing up any part that moves or rubs on another. Mine is a different type that I’m going to modify.

There is a large clamp, holding that locking ring on.
Often, the clamp gets hidden by dust/dirt buildup, in the lock ring recess.

Make sure you undo the clamp first.

Your right, I forgot all about that bloody clamp! It’s like a giant hose clamp.

You can buy a special tool like this one
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F201694691800
Make sure the threads are clean. In my experience dirt settles in around it with water and sets like stone. Scrap around the outside of the ring so it’s really clean and blow it out with compressed air

The parts cleaned up well and a shot of wd on em


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Those parts are coming up well. You should try to keep all the pushrods and rockers in the same order as they have worn together. It’s not absolutely necessary but it’s good practice.
I’d crack open the oil pump to clean and lube everything up especially the relief valve. Learn from my mistake of not checking it then blowing off an oil filter then having to rebuild another pump and install it with the engine in the car.

Here you go, my bad, the brand is ABRO
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F263335424901

I got them

 

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The lapping sticks you have are great but that paste is absolute rubbish, I have a full container of it, tried it on one valve and put it back on the shelf. It dries too quickly and is way too coarse for my liking ( I know it has coarse and fine paste ). Try and get ARBO brand, it stays wet for a long time and you can see how well the valve and seat are mating together while using it- kind of like bearing blue - once you start lapping valves this will make more sense as you get a feel for it. It leave a nice finish too. By all means give it a go but you may find it frustrating to use. Mix it up well with a screwdriver before trying to use.

 

Another thing you should buy is a straight edge if your going to do more of these engines. You need to make sure the heads are flat. Any more than 2 thou dip or warp and you should look at getting skimmed at the machine shop. I usually check them 5 ways , front to back on the exhaust side of the chambers, again on the inlet side then again straight down the middle. Then diagonal from front left to back right then front right to back left. Buy a nice long proper straight edge, mine is around 1200mm long and don’t drop it!

very good clip on it here..
 
 

Follow this, don’t cut corners. Don’t be tempted to use a drill to lap the valves either. I like the brand ARBO for grinding paste, there are some really crap ones out there.

Yep im over it im taking it too get drilled and helicoiled

Go buy some decent ezy-outs, you’ll get a few for the cost of some one else removing it. If you do get it moving work it like your cutting a new thread- 1 full turn, back half and so on. Keep soaking it in wd40 as you go.
Good tools maketh the man!

That bolt will be useless, you’ll need something with a left hand thread, you’ll just make a mess of it and it’ll be harder to remove, trust me.

How am i gunna get whats left of a spark plug out of the thread ? I drilled most of it ,what about heating it up with a blow torch to expand it ? Then somehow unscrew it ? If i take it to the machine shop he will charge me at least $100 to fix

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You need some of these,

The square one is my favourite for snapped spark plugs.
Don’t heat it up, alloy doesn’t change colour with heat it’ll just melt and you’ll fuck the head. Buy some of that loctite spray on freezing stuff.

Do you take the valve springs off and lap the valves?

Yep, 120 degrees is correct, the composite are 90 degrees ( from memory). I can confirm tomorrow if you need.

Make sure you use new head bolts too. We all have our chosen brands too. I personally use Permaseal. They make a good product and have the part number cast into the head of each bolt to easily identify them.
Old ones will do up too easily and not give the proper clamping pressure. The torquing specs are different for mls head gasket compared to a composite head gasket too.

fire it up..  drop it it in.. she'll be right
 

It’s not a Gemini engine!

Nice write up Greg. It’s good to pass on little tips such as drilling.

Thanks bud it helps loads. The au radiator was wiped out by roo. And without checking got one for xg. So ill have the plates.built in the next few weeks.

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No worries. I searched everywhere, I couldn’t find the spare brackets I had.

I'd part with the Outback to get that....

 

I can’t like that post unless......your selling it to me!