Valvebouncer

As Dave said, it needs to be put into diagnostic mode. Putting a timing light on it when it is running normally ( not in diagnostic mode) is pointless as the computer takes over to advance and retard the timing. Essentially you set the base timing and the computer takes over from there. If I get time I'll take a photo of the process in my workshop manual.

The slow to rev up could be retarded ignition timing, did you bridge out the two pins in the diagnostic plug and adjust it?

That's a decent gain, some cams don't give you that much and a vernier cam gear is cheaper too!

Has anyone experimented with an adjustable cam gear on a standard cam? Were there any gains from advancing or retarding it? I'm guessing there would be gains and losses at certain rpm points but I'm curious across a decent range of rpm.

As previously stated Dave, they aren't necessary and I'll do the job properly so the head doesn't have to come off again. If decent bolts were good enough for ford the get over 300kw out of a Barra and last 700,000km in a taxi then revised well made bolts are good enough for my ute. What kind of company that has 2 subsidiaries, one that can make bolts and one that attempts to? No thanks, I'll stick with blackxt suggestion for mace engineering, the more people I ask the better they sound.

Thanks bud, I'll be buying these unless anyone knows something I don't. https://www.maceengineering.com.au/epages/shop.mobile/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/mace/Products/BPHDS603

I just spoke to ford, AU ones are obsolete and they reckon BA head bolts are different. Bugger!

While your asking, anyone got any suggestions for head bolts to suit the sohc 4.0? I've been told to steer clear of Nason, the only other over the counter ones I've seen readily available are permaseal. I'd rather not go to head studs because they aren't really necessary in my case, a bit of overkill plus costly. Suggestions?

Yep that's in clevelands, use a 1/2 inch drill bit to check. It'll fit in an early block down to the oil pump. Won't fit in a later block. I assume the OP is talking crossflow engines hence the mention of a c1 head.

I found this site useful when diagnosing mine http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/ignition-control-module-tests-3#2 You may have to do the pip signal while it's running, keep an eye on it and see if it goes irregular as the misfire occurs

Good advice here. Just wear disposable gloves when using that paste. It's incredibly carcinogenic! Jack I remember you buying your Bosch dizzy, new ones are thin on the ground now! Treat it like gold!!

Yep it's a good bolt in upgrade. It was very popular 15 years ago. The distributor you are referring to is a pulse generating one with a Bosch BIM024 module on the side of it. Super reliable setup, easy to install and the modules are cheap.

I've seen performance ignition advertising their rebuilt distributors on eBay, $250 exchange. I wasn't sure if they used genuine Bosch components or not. https://www.ebay.com.au/i/222569602865 So Dave, they only use genuine Bosch components? If so I'll be buying one!

It is removable. I'd see if you can find a good secondhand genuine distributor complete, as Bosch ones are no longer available new. Personally I'm not a fan of the aftermarket ones despite what people say they don't last. Id replace the whole distributor as everything will be fairly worn and you'll end up getting the shits replacing individual components and bushes. A genuine one should give you around 240,000km trouble free motoring. In relation to fuel pressure reg, all fuel pressure regulators will release at 250kpa other than xr6 which is 325kpa.

Bizarre. Keep in mind that the ecu uses a PIP signal from the distributor as a reference as when to inject fuel. It could be wiring from the module on the dizzy back to the ecu.

This is going to sound dumb but are you sure you have the fuel lines around the right way at the rail?

I told you they were crazy for them [emoji106][emoji106] How much did you sell them for?

Just to clarify, are you referring to the face being machined flat like it was on a lathe? I'm assuming they did this towards the end when the casting got a bit daggy?

American

The Americans are going crazy for the crossflows. Have a look here https://fordsix.com/viewforum.php?f=3&sid=f7acdc29acc02b17d0b0f11113b7b992

I wouldn't mind an Xg xr6, but I do like the bench seat in my xg. The hardest part will be removing the hump for the selector. If you look closely it is actually welded in underneath the crossmember inside the cab where the front seat bolts go. Not sure how far you want to go with the conversion though.

Well if you've done that it should be sweet. Just remember, things usually run great right before they blow up.

It's kind of a good problem to have- running too cold that is. Most people with older cars would love to have this problem. I'd be tempted to fit a metal temperature gauge to the back of the cylinder head to make sure what your seeing is correct. If it is, party on!!

That sounds like you have a contact problem in the amp switch, is pull it apart to check and clean it. It's not like you have anything to lose!

If it doesn't have a dipstick there will be a fill plug on the exhaust side, either 15 or 16mm from memory. Run it up to normal operating temp, then fill until fluid starts to run out. The car must be level when checking it. I always crack the fill plug while it's still cold. Much easier than fighting with a hot exhaust.