Valvebouncer

Will do, give me a few days to take some photos.

Good advice there Sparky. Could I just add that most falcon alternator fail prematurely because of the power steering pump/reservoir above it leaking fluid all over it. If your second hand one is oily or has been chemically cleaned/ pressure washed it'll most likely need a rebuild.

This. I offer paint protection BUT only to those that don't give a fuck about proper maintenance. With a good coating absolutely nothing will stick to it, wax, bird shit ,nothing. If you ever need a panel restated they won't be able to match it properly because of the characteristics of ceramic/glass coatings. Invest in a GOOD wax be it synthetic or carnauba wax. The most important part that I can't emphasise enough is a proper washing technique with the two bucket method using a grit guard ( I should start a thread on this and other polishing matters, takers?). Also a proper drying technique, if you use a chamois you should be shot. Use a proper waffle weve drying towel and a quick detailer as a drying aid. Believe it or not but most scratches and marring happen from the owner using improper washing techniques.

Ok, so as some of you may well know I have a small car detailing business on the side of my regular job. The best advice I can give is " use your chosen products and use them regularly". There are a lot of pluses and minuses for coatings, personally I'd never suggest a coating to someone who is into cars. I do however think your plain crazy if you don't apply a wax to your paintwork. You really can't go wrong with a wax that contains carnauba.

This. Check the basics first, oil water then timing AND especially the balancer for slip. Go buy a TeeKay tester to test the head gasket. As other eluded to, a vacuum leak, don't forget to check the seal under the oil filler cap too.

At work we sell predominantly batteries and chargers. We used to sell CTek chargers but have since dropped them as the quality just wasn't there, we now sell Redarc chargers, cheaper and good quality. <br />Late model batteries are predominantly calcium plate with only using lead as a bonding agent for the plates. The problem with these batteries is that when you discharge then the build up a high resistance to charge back up, a charging system in a car will be lucky to get the battery back up to 80% after being run flat. The only way is with a good battery charger for a calcium battery (most will go through 7 stages of charge and discharge to remove the resistance). If I were doing this I'd use batteries designed for a stop start system car. They are a good hybrid between your normal battery and a deep cycle. These will handle more discharges than a normal battery. Use the solar panel to power the battery charger and/or use the solar panel for direct power if it has enough grunt. In the topic of optima batteries, I know of 2 friends running aftermarket Ecuador that have both lost their programming and both tuners said to get rid of the optima batteries they were running. From the research I have done on them they just don't seem stable enough for my liking, I'd rather replace batteries more regularly than deal with electronic issues from a battery surging. You have to ask yourself, if they were that great wouldn't manufacturers fit them in the factory? Just my 2 cents worth

Good luck with your surgery Stumpers, I hope it all goes well for you. I enjoy reading your development posts, especially those budget mods!

At least your poop will have a nice shine to it! Kinda gives new meaning to the saying " can't shine a turd"!!

What about the change over valve between the two tanks? It could be stuck shut. In my bf I had for work it used to rattle and bang around like crazy when I was filling up, people used to walk further around thinking it was about to blow up!!

Another thing to remember is trying to get the old one off. Start soaking the bolts in wd40 or rots off from wurth if you can get some. These bolts always seem to seize from the thread rusting inside the tailgate. If it's a late model xf (1988 on) make sure you eat your weetbix in the morning before trying to undo the Allen key bolts, they are a nightmare!,

86 ignition power, 85 earth, 30 direct to battery, 87 to starter solenoid. Use a 4 pin relay.

What type of car is this?<br />I have successfully pulled apart Honda, Toyota and commodore ignition switches, cleaned and in some cases, soldered the contacts, put it back together and it worked fine.

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=relay+wiring&client=safari&hl=en&biw=320&bih=372&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=QAYuVKrsIoj-igLqlIGICg&ved=0CCcQ7Ak#facrc=_&imgrc=wGKJKoVUxPUJ6M%253A%3BUh5_rLr9XqLI7M%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.mp3car.com%252Fvbulletin%252Fimagehosting%252F12527647e9129233622.bmp%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.mp3car.com%252Fvbulletin%252Fthe-faq-emporium%252F117895-faq-relays-how-they-work-and-how-to-wire-it-up.html%3B453%3B385

Sounds like a common Honda and Toyota fault. If your still getting a little voltage throught but not enough to engage the starter solenoid I'd just be wiring up a starter relay instead of replacing the ignition barrel. It'd only set you back $20 or less.

From what I got told it uses the fuel gauge to do a base calibration for L per km. mine used to flash 99.9l/km when the gauge was stuffed, maybe they fed me fibs, but that is what ford told me when the ute was new. Remember too that your oxygen sensor is only a minor trimming device. The next thing I'd do is unscrew the two 10 mm drain bolts in the bottom of the convertor. If you get any water/coolant coming out you need the convertor rebuilt.

There are 2 settings, one is for average and the other is instant usage.<br />Does your gasgauge work properly? I had a bf work ute that did that and the gauge was replaced and worked fine afterwards

This is what it should look like when dun propreley electrical cablez n fuels hozes n stuff r all same same. Looks good huh?!

Heat up a flat blade screwdriver with a butane torch or oxy then stick it in a melt into the remains of the vacuum tree. Let it cool and then just unscrew it out. I do this all the time on busted radiator drain plugs too.

Do your brake lights work? It won't work if they don't.

I think what you have done so far is brilliant. It really highlights how far the development of these engines have come and that you don't need to break the bank to go fast. Well done!

That last photo says 1987 prototype and it has a broadband manifold on it. That was real eased in 1994, 7 years later! I can only imagine what they are working on in 2014 that we will see in 2021!

That spark is from coil saturation- constant power to charge it up. That shows that everything is still connected but no trigger to switch the power off and on. I could be multiple things, dizzy sensor, module, est computer. That's all I got, sorry! Lol. Maybe someone else could diagnose more.

That's a great improvement in the 3-4000 range!<br />I'm really looking forward to seeing videos of this at full noise in the car!

Antonio and Daniel at Waxit are awesome to deal with.

I run my own home based detailing business. Here, have a look at my suppliers site, awesome products, prices and Dan is super helpful. http://www.woodywax.com.au/ Yes a water based dressing, it won't last as long but won't make your tyres brown either. Try the HD tyre gel, it's brilliant.