Valvebouncer

If it's wound on hard enough it could "choke" the engine too hard. It should open up when you rev the engine. I'm trying to remember ( it's been a few years since I rebuilt one of these) do you have access to the idle mixture screw or are they sealed from factory? I swear I had to drill out the plug to gain access or am I thinking of Japanese carbs?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's scarier than sitting on the bump stops. I'd do as Dave suggests. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Depends on your spring rate but I'd want more, like 3-4cm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd do a little experiment first. Measure the height of the guard as is, then remove the bump stop altogether and remeasure. If it's a significant drop you may need to change the springs as you will still have stuff all travel with shorter bump stops. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well at least it won't sag any more! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well said Gerg! This needs to happen, please!

That's an awesome looking kit! I wonder if it will fit in an xg? Judging by how the turbo sits I'm thinking it might foul on the shock tower. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Either as above or the idle circuit is blocked. When you had the carby apart did you blow out all the passages with compressed air? Part of the old gasket could have easily lodged it self in the circuit as its so small. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok so I'm guess the gap between my uca and bump stop is about 5 hours, I can only assume the bump stops are still with the previous owner! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, it's quite a popular replacement for people to do when their original turbo motor goes bang. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Could you put up a link? There are so many claiming to be good quality. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As Slo said, I remember the badge well on Xf Utes but I've never seen it on anything else. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Put a pipe through the lower arm and into the castor rod, get your fattest friend to stand on it. Now belt the living f&@k out of that top joint, it'll pop. It's easier with the caliper and disc removed too- less things to hit with a stray hammer

What a brilliant idea Rod! You'll be flat out making just panels before you know it. Too bad fords don't rust though!

Oh, ok

If it's a factory fitted gas there will be two 10mm bolts at the bottom of the convertor. Take these out and if you get more than a thimble of coolant come out its time for a convertor rebuild. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds pretty cheap. Does the head gasket look new? There will be bits visible. Also sometimes when a head is reconditioned the machine shop will glue a little aluminium disc on the head. The idea is that if you overheat it the glue gives way and the disc falls off. Like I said, only sometimes they do it. If that is an ef engine I'd buy the whole thing. You'll get the best crank, only one to have 12 counterweights. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks pretty clean! Has it been off the block? My only concern would be if it has had the face machined and by how much. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have seen companies doing custom ones like these Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hell yeah!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The good news is you won't. They fixed the problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A good automotive locksmith can rebuild the ignition barrel for you. The BA -BF inherent fault of the ignition barrel back falling apart was rectified in the FG by ford. From memory I think they put some screws in there to hold it together rather than pressing over the end of the housing

Just out of curiosity, could you redrill the bw bell housing to fit the c4? I've got a case fill c4 that one day I want to stick behind a crossly.

Nice build Ando! I can't wait to see this thing fire up!

Try Rust-a-Problem. They are on facebook.