Valvebouncer

Could possibly be the head unit

^^ what he said[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

Unscrew the idle solenoid, if the pin hasn't been cut off and there is no power running through it but the car idles at all your carb needs a rebuild. The idle circuit would be blocked. Buy the major rebuild kit, it has schematics showing how the carb goes back together. Also buy a couple of can of carby cleaner, an old tooth brush to scrub it all down and blast everything and every hole with compressed air. The compressed air is crucial to cleaning out the galleries.

What are your plans for the car? If it's going to be just a street car I'd be inclined to go all rubber. I dislike polyurethane in the swaybar link pins as they creak and most people do them up too tight. Same goes for radius rod bushes. Keep in mind these are just my opinions on it and in my opinion if polyurethane bushes were so good the car manufacturers would use them from the start. Ask anyone who has changed the centre diff bush in a ba-fg.

[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23] Post of the week! Oh man, I had a good laugh when I read this, almost woke the family @ 5am before I leave to go on shift.

I'm no Holley expert but I thought the largest 2 barrel carb they make is 500cfm. From memory a 650dp is a 4 barrel. That's clearly a 2 barrel in the video. Will yella terra roller rocker fit under the stock valve cover? I couldn't see a spacer but I'm pretty sure there isn't much room under there.

No need to pull the engine. Feed them up from the bottom. Good luck with the bottom back 2 bolts on the drivers side

It's meant to be there with nothing in it. It's in case the seal in your water pump fails, the coolant won't build pressure and enter the bearing causing it to seize

I'd give it a go in the car first but it will be hard to do. Ideally you will need to evenly pull on the end of the column, think something like a small slide hammer.

This^^ Mate that is shit scary, with the column being so short if that thing sheers you'll just be a passenger in the the drivers seat. The default pins that are there in case the coupling fails don't even meet the base of the column. Whoever did that deserves to have a fucking huge kick up the arse.

Is it going over the rta pits? Being serious here, do you really need one? It's only required for a blue slip. You could just stamp the chassis number then it's a matching numbers car, it's not like your restamping an old block.

Crazy- I know you did the mods yourself but do you know which mustang kit ( the drop and wedges) would suit our x series or do we have to make it from scratch? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No worries bud! It is a bit weird that it randomly got air in it, keep an eye on it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This one? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got a link for these wedges? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol! You might as well take the springs back for a refund, they will be next to useless when it settles

Sorry, I never read your original post. You need to try and bleed the air out of the brakes. Grab a 10mm spanner and start at the furthest away from the master cylinder. Fill up the master cylinder, crack the nipple, make sure your comfy and watch. Don't pump the brakes, just watch. You will see the fluid slowly coming out and any air will come out as bubbles. This is called gravity bleeding. Even better, if you can get some clear hose that is a tight fit over the nipple, it will make it easier to see air bubbles. Once done pump the pedal up, short pumps, don't do big long travel pumps as you can stuff the seals in the master cylinder going over crud. If it's back to normal you had air, if not your master cylinder has collapsed one of its systems - this is more likely than a system with no vacuum suddenly sucking in air while the car is stationary. As for your weeping caliper, a more likely scenario is the flexible lines going porous, if so, replace all 3. Good luck! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There are two tests you do for brake boosters 1 with the engine off pump the brake pedal until it's gone firm, apply medium pressure to the brake pedal and start the engine. The pedal should sink a bit away from you if it's working correctly. 2 with the engine running press hard on the brake pedal and switch the engine off. The pedal should stay in the same position. If it's stuffed the pedal will push you back in the seat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bahaha!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bloody hell! That's what I'd imagine the clearance would be like in the old jim hunter suspension off road racing ute!! Edit : Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know this is off topic- is this your ghia with the blower? Have you got a build thread on it? Link? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How much travel do you have left in the shock? Are you sure it's not going to bottom out before you hit the bump stop? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So just to clarify, you only have 1 1/2cm shock travel. Left with the bump stop taken out? In the other photo with the two marks, is that one with the bump stop before cutting and one after? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bugger Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, cool. So if it's still idling high, it maybe still running on the high speed idle circuit which will use the progressive idle circuit (the next step up after idling). The setting for the idle screw of wind all the way in and out 2 revolutions is like an industry standard for starting off, it'll get the car running but needs to be adjusted once the engine is up to normal operating temperature. I'd get the engine warmed up, loosen the three screws on the choke housing and back it right off. Then once it's up to temp the idle should drop down to normal ( should do it really soon but anyway) then start with your idle speed screw, does it make a difference if you turn it 1/4 turn? If not, why? Are the linkages around the right way etc. once that's sorted go to the mixture, wind it out until the idle starts to dip then back in 1/2 a turn. If you can wind it out and it makes no difference it still isn't running on the idle circuit, somethings not right, re check assembly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk