Valvebouncer

Awesome build and awesome videos! I'm a subscriber and definitely worth watching before a lot of the other videos on YouTube. Keep up the great work!!

Just a thought, could you pull the guard off and change the pins and bushes with the door shut? It might be easier than trying to readjust the door.

Either the contacts inside the solenoid arched and welded itself together or there is something wrong with the ignition switch. If you pull that green wire off when it's stuck cranking and it stops, it's the ignition barrel. OR If you give the solenoid a whack with a screwdriver when stuck cranking and it cuts out it's the solenoid

Is the harness significantly different from a manual to an auto? Or is it a plug in section from factory? Found this, not sure if it helps. https://www.tiperformance.com.au/knowledge-base/wiring-up-the-neutral-switch-in-a-ford-falcon-manual-conversion/ What drew said is spot on, I've read somewhere too that if the pump keeps priming the chip is corrupt.

They are great numbers Ando! You've got to be happy with that!

I've seen this on gumtree, you buying or selling it?

Stroke is the same but the conrods are longer, kind of like fitting 200ci rods in a 250ci scenario. Can't help with the journal size sorry.

All good mate no argument from me! It is a cool little car. It might an idea to find someone who was into formula fords, you pick up some good carb+ manifold set ups. They are hard getting bits for now, perhaps eBay uk?

So you would have this in permanently in your beast, just wondering for an efi car, would you: 1) weld in another bung in the exhaust 2)piggy back off the factory sensor 3) unscrew the factory one and only use this for tuning.

Is this the sort of thing your looking at? https://www.tiperformance.com.au/products/techedge-2j9-wideband-o2-controller-gauge-kit/ I'm interested in feedback too

1Maybe you should fit an appropriate carby? (Essentially you've started a chain effect all because of your choice of carby. This would make sense in a modified vehicle but yours is a really clean little beast that has stood the test of time.) 2 you could hide it or a smaller canister inside the wheel arch and still be compliant 3 it's only sucking in petrol fumes, if it makes your manifold black and oily there is something seriously wrong. 4if anything, run the breather hose to a catch can and back to the carb. 5 enlist the help of Dave as Dean suggested

Could be. It needs to be able to vent off the the fumes. The charcoal canister should be hooked up to a port on the carb so it only sucks when accelerating never at idle so look for a port above the throttle shaft on the carby. It'd be good to check everything too, start by GENTLY blowing compressed air down the hose from the canister to the tank to make sure it's clear, you'll hear the air in the tank, it won't take much. If this is clear leave it disconnected and run it into an empty coke bottle when parked. If there is no fuel spilling out of the tank or flooding of the carb it's your charcoal canister. This could just mean that the charcoal is saturated with fuel/fumes and just needs a vacuum line put onto it to empty it.

Your fuel tank must be pressurising. As the day warms up the fuel heat and expands, if it doesn't vent out it forces fuel up to the carb.Check the tank breather, probably in the cap a car this old. Later they went to charcoal canisters.

Ok cool, so a standard AU head has the same size exhaust valves as an EF XR6 head and an AU XR6 head has even bigger exhaust valves again. Correct?

I just re-read this thread, so much good info here. One thing i want to know, i have an AU XR6 non vct engine to eventually put in my ute. What is the difference in the head between it and a standard AU head other than a big T cast in the front? Are the valves springs and cam any different from the standard motor?

All good mate. I feel for you, I don't think I've had a good night sleep in years thanks to the kids. But they are worth it. Very different to your sleep deprivation. I have forgotten so much about the ohc tensioner set up( last one I did I just unscrewed the whole thing so I didn't have to adjust it) could you put up photos from the workshop manual on how to set it up?

Maybe I could have written it a bit clearer, the crow cams don't require any extra shims but still requires the shims that were fitted at the factory. By shimming the lifter it also adjusts the roller in the rocker to cam lobe contact. Taken from t.i. Performance Good luck with it jack.

Well said Dave, spot on. I've found this quite common in late model xf and xg but not 1986 and earlier. I guess they don't make things like they used too!

Jack that measurement 0.4 - 1.1 would be mm. Between a collapsed lifter and the valve stem tip. The only reason you need to collapse the lifter would be to measure the clearances ( and of course making sure they are clean). I'd be putting they in a container of oil before assembly then popping them straight into the rocker arm, not dry. But that's just me [emoji4]. Wade cams ( now owned by Clive cams) had a base circle 50 thou smaller ( 1.27mm ) than factory. Or use a crow cam, which is a new billet so the base circle is the same as factory so no need to stuff around with shims. No matter what cam you fit though, it should be dialled in to suit your needs and get the most out of it. Your wasting money if you don't. Good luck with it Jack.

I helped a good mate about 8 years ago fit a shaved and ported Tickford head, extractors, wade cam, adjustable cam gear. We did as Dave said, compressed the original lifters in the vice with soft jaws. We also had it apart and cleaned while fitting the head which helped them bleed out. We got the shims from our local engine machine shop, he is an old Armenian fella, an absolute genius so I wouldn't be surprised if it's unusual for a machine shop to have them. Make sure you get an adjustable cam gear, we ended up retarding the cam timing 2 degrees. He later upgraded the ignition coil to an ice ignition mounted on the air box away from heat soak, the difference is amazing. He also fitted an el intake manifold, this helped a lot with the typical ohc of being a bit doughy off the line with an auto. Why not look at a crow cam? They are a new cam so the base circle is the same as standard so no shims are needed. Edit: I cannot remember what clearance you are meant to have initially between a collapsed lifter and valve stem. I'll ask him today, hopefully he remembers!

Stick your fingers in where the the air comes out to blow on your feet. Get the engine hot first, if it's wet your heater core is f&@ked. ( I think I just inadvertently wrote a porno[emoji23][emoji23])

No. Injected and carb with EST ignition

They all have the same stud pattern right up to fgx. The difference is in the size of the centre hub and au onwards switched the offset from rwd to fwd

As Dean said or your heater core is leaking .