ILIED

I run an AEM on my street/bush F100. Its on LPG so I use Lambda, cos it didnt have a switch for LPG translation, every other fuel. I like Lambda cos you dont need to think. Sure you can go "ooh, its close to 13, might be getting a little nasty..." But I see it below 1 and I'm happy.

I dont know, but I'll be in the same boat

For the front doors?

No stress. I was wondering

I'm confused what you mean. The sender in the thermostat housing tells me the engine temp. When I first start her, it takes a few mins and gets to ~160 The sender in my bottom hose tells me the outlet temp of the rad. I get about half way (about 20kms) to work before I get a reading on this in the mornings. Its only at about 100 by the time I get to work. The TFS205 will be the switch to operate the fans. The lower temp setting for Fan 1 on low. The higher temp setting for Fan 2 ON and Fan 1 on high. I havent got the TFS in yet cos I still have the mechanical fan. The gauges work fine. When I'm playing around in the bush and it starts getting hot, I can tell cos the rad temp gets to the same temp as the engine, then they both start going up together. Once I get a bit of air moving through the rad, they both start coming down together, except the engine temp settles back down to 160 and the rad temp goes down to whatever

I have two temp gauges in my ute. One in the thermostat housing to tell me the engine temp One in the bottom hose to tell me the rad temp. I still have the belt driven pemp and a viscous fan. Fans fucked, can tell cos ya can watch the rad temp play games as it gets hot when I'm not really moving and cools down when I get going. The thermostat works because the engine temp stays the same the whole time once its up to temp (unless I let it overheat, fan again). Gonna leave the belt driven pump, but run AU thermos, probably with a Tridon TFS205 in the bottom hose next to that temp sender. Switches for On/auto/Off for each fan, too.

Sorry, I've only got the UCAs and bumpsteer kit. I couldnt see the point in the rest. I do think that I'd like their spindles, but they dont have people available to tell me what the ackerman is. I expect it to suit a shorter wheelbase car, but no cunt can give me detailed facts. I want to speak to the people who design the stuff, not a salesman. Thats what I really liked about Maier. Mike doesnt recommend using his already made stuff (or anyone else's) on ours. He's a perfectionist, so as far as he's concerned, you get it RIGHT, not close enough. In saying that, he said that it depends on your budget and what you want. TCP works (on Mustangs) and for a budget it IS better than factory. Our cars are longer and wider, so we cant assume we know where everything is. As for the Camber bolt tube, I know the XD is different to XF, but I dont know which the XE is the same as. I think this stuff is a great improvement, but dont expect it to be a racecar.

I've got TCP, to suit the later models (1970+)

Ahh, righto you are. Cheers

http://www.falcongt.com.au/id.html

Fairlane, September 1979

Are you saying your diff is 20mm further away from the arch on one side compared to the other? F U C K ! ! ! Something is wrong. Is one arm on the watts link bent? Maybe bend the on on the side closest to the arch....haha, no. If you're looking at the Watts pivot, they arent central anyway

Ring Alpha and talk to them, they are a great source of advice. and they've done some good work http://www.motorsportfibreglass.com.au/

NEVER chuck em out. Chuck them IN a camp fire. Big baddaboom

You mean where the wheel weights go?

Soft valve springs equals valvefloat. Valve float equals bent pushrod. You can replace the rods with better ones, which you should, but prob be advantageous to put some decents springs in it.

Are we sure the diff mounts for the top arms are in the same position?

Here's an idea. Go to a joint that does fabrication work for powerstations or other plant with boilers. Get yourself some ChromeMoly tube. Comes thick as fuck wall thickness. I'm using some to make some lowercontrol arms for my F100 (still leaf spring). Places with boilers use crmo cos it has better temperature stability, btw. Once you've got this, consider not using a turnbuckle. I understand that yes, with a turnbuckle you can make the adjustments on ramps, but if you just use a righthand thread, you can lift her up on stands, unbolt from the diff, make the changes and then bolt it back up. It'll be cheaper than buying a left-hand tap and a right hand tap, and you wont need to purchase two turnbuckles. I'd use a fine thread, so you can make smaller adjustments. (180degree turn is half the threadpitch, so like 1-2mm). It might be shit for the first bit, having to keep putting the car on stands, but I dont think you'll be changing it too much after that.

Anybody used aftermarket spring perches? I'm about to put new UCAs in my XE, thinking I'll change these. Just after some experience. http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Suspension/images/opt-rsp.jpg Thanks

Change the fluid and see if they're still spongey. My tip is to use a different colour to the fluid thats already in there. If its yellow in there, pick a blue one, so you know when you've got all the old fliud out. As far as the idle, I'm thinking the NRV isn't working correct.

Havent checked, Bro

Anybody used aftermarket spring perches? I'm about to put new UCAs in my XE, thinking I'll change these. Just after some experience. http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Suspension/images/opt-rsp.jpg Thanks

How do yo expect it to make the turning circle better? These all still employ the radius rod as the steering stop. There's a lot of info on xfalcon.com where XDRFT (Danny) put RRS in his XD drift car

Good thing about my FG is the indicators on the mirrors. I can fly in there in reverse even when its raining, just put the hazards on and light up the rollerdoor channels. Not so easy in an xfalc

You can get some Scorpions that bolt stright into the factory spot