ILIED

I'd say get the second one. DEFINITELY NOT the first one. Avoid ATRACING WORLD, you might catch AIDS

I like these http://www.autron.com.au/pages/AI/52mm_gauge.php

True, they all gotta match

I dont believe you need an entirely accurate gauge. Lets be honest, whatever you're measuring shouldn't change, should it? Ok, maybe your oil pressure will change, but you don't really care what it reads, as long as its consistent. I rarely look at the numbers my gauge is displaying. Unless I'm diagnosing, then, ok yeah ya do. I dont look at my gauges unless they move. My oil pressure moves a bit, but I now know where it sits on idle and where it sits at revs, I dont pay it any mind otherwise. My vacuum and AFR gauges work together and are manipulated by my foot. They get my attention a bit cos they move, but no biggy. I have two temp gauges in my ute. One for the engine, one for the Rad-Out. Once the thing is up to temp, the engine gauge never moves unless my radiator temp gets to the same, then they go up together. Then theres a problem. Generally only happens in mud. I had a fuel pressure gauge for a while. It NEVER changed. I'm on LPG so once I was happy it was not gonna drop, I used that hole for something else.

Just use one of these:

Just check the price on recon the heads and porting, it may be better to just buy some alloys As for the Cam argument, mine in my ute is a bit smaller, its a Comp 280H and its fair soft. My ute is effectively a 3 speed cos ya just dont use 1st. I'm running a 3.5 diff and 33" tyres and I really wouldnt mind something a bit angrier, oh, my ride is like 2.5T so I imagine it would be much cruisier in a Falcon.

I have issues with my MSD dizzy caps. They keep shitting the carbon contact that the rotor button rubs on. It'll run but it'll die under load. I can rev the cunt as much as I want but when I mat it it backfires and carries on. Not a coincidence, its happened twice now. No one I know has experienced it. Also, I've heard if you have a module and your battery is low, it can be cunty as you try to draw more current. I've not experienced that

I think any gauge will do. Personally, I think the value of the gauges should reflect the value of the engine. The most expensive engine needs the most expensive gauge. I cant see the value of a fancy $200 gauge to go on the engine if it'll only do a couple hundred dollars damage if its not accurate. If you had a $30000 engine and were going for your first burnout, you'd want some special gauges, and someone to watch them as you swing the car around Given that you've been driving it with the problems, any gauge should do. I say check the pressure with the engine off. Then, Check the pressure on idle. Then, Get a camera taped to your enginebay watching the gauge and take it for a drive. Each time the thing plays up beep the horn (two seconds) after. This will give you a reference to when the issue has happened and you'll still be able to hear the engine through the video. It could be that the pressure is consistent and it'll show nothing on the gauge, but I doubt that.

Seriously, a fucken gauge. What would be bad about puting one on?

Maybe stop guessing. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Marshall-Gauge-0-15-psi-Fuel-Pressure-Oil-Pressure-1-5-Midnight-Black-Liquid-/231080522535?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35cd78f327&vxp=mtr If you dont even know if the pump is performing as a baseline, how can you determine what it might be doin any other time?

I dont know if I've overlooked it, but can you tell us if you DO or DO NOT have a pressure gauge at the engine, please?

How do you know you have vapor lock? I surprises me that you can get that with an electric pump. Now I dont know the boiling temp of of fuel at 7PSI, but I think it would be way up there. Do you have a pressure gauge? Is it right at the carb? Thats how you determine what pressure you have, not at the pump. Maybe even borrow a GoPro and put it at the gauge so when you road-test it, you can see exactly what's going on

Fair enough, I didnt see their volume

I'm surprised people arent jumping for the P38s

I just bought for my F100 Does the job

Was trying to work out why the reversing lights on the XE weren't working. After spending AGES checking every loom and just plain fucking around by myself, I found that they system DOES work, however they scope of the selector being in reverse is very small. It ll start no wukkas in all the correct positions and inhibit no wukkas in P and N but it just doesnt have fuckall of a window where the backup lights are on. I got the wife behind the car and watched and it was just a flicker, I couldnt manage to keep in in the position that the lights stay on. Anyone got any advice?

AFASIK, no cortys came with five stud. Was it the same PCD as the Falcon

Got one on my XE, much dislike

The electric windows on my XE seem to have aids or something and are noisy and slow. Noisy like that little nylon square is dry and scratching its arse along the track. Anyhow, what should I use to lube it? I was thinking Lithium grease or some other low-slump shit

I agree. Reco of the heads would be about $1500. New CHI 2V (which flow VERY similar to 3Vs but still take shelf 2V manifolds) are $2800 and flow much more and are alloy so not they're not just lighter, but they will take a little more comp and the already come ready for stud mount rockers. All you need then is a rocker kit and guides

RPM AirGap. Bout $400 As for the 2V/4V thing. Is there a serious gap between the valves? If its only like 2mm, they 4V valves in there. If its like 6mm, the 2V valves. If each pushrod has individual ones through the head, its 4V. If some share a big hole, they 2V heads.

They are prob 2Vs with 4V valves. Common as fuck mod back in the 80s and 90s. I have a couple sets of them. They flowed 450hp.

Agree. If you were getting to 500hp, you'll wanna step up from a twin 2.5 to a twin 3, I think