Stevemack

When you fit wheels back on, especially alloys, I always put a thin coating of copper kote or some other high temp grease, helps the wheels come off next time.

Nothing from CRS (Waddingtons) will be cheap i guarantee you that!! Rip offs! Probably won't fit well either.

You're not doing one for E series too are you?

The original plates work the best if you've got them, the front holes are for engine only, the rears for engine and trans, they work really well. If you haven't got any get some and fit them before the engine goes back in.

Lotta lotta work dude!

Hay Campo, i got the opposite result, dropped the snail manifold and gained plenty moe torque! Go figure, must be in the cam etc! lol If you are going to do the conversion, sounds like you are going to have to get it modded anyway? right? Go the improvements i suggested, everything is Ford Factory, any engineer will think it's just an XG motor or some such. You are gonna need some oomph to get that old girl XC movin round mate! Once the cops pull you over, shove the engineers compliance under their nose and BAM off they go leaving you alone with no defect fines etc.

Make sure the wheel nuts are tight, all round, the noises can appear to be coming from one side but are originating from the other.

The drop down manifold gives better torque, and the XH idler setup is the only one you can use with that drop down manifold and still run the serpentine belt. The only problem with the drop down manifold (and i reckon it's better anyway) is you have to mount the coil pack on top of the rocker cover or somewhere like that because it doesn't fit under the manifold. It's easy to wire and easier to get to anyway.

Giovanni, my advice is save for a BA turbo conversion, the AU or even EL engine isn't goning to be much of a performance gain IMO. But if you are dead set on the AU, find a hybrid EL block 1998), which has the casting VR2A on the side (better crank and has the AU girdle) use the XH drop down manifold, XH belt and idler setup, Magna blue top injectors, put a cam in it and an ECU reflash and you should get up to 170 -180kW at the wheels, heaps better than a bogger AU. A holley Red (i think) should do for the fuel, you'll need a return line and a time out relay. A T5 from an ef el etc should be OK, just weld on a few lugs to adapt a slave cylinder, fit a master cylinder and bobs your uncle. The A/C compressor should be OK, but XG pipes might fit better, probably some adaptors somewhere will be needed. Accelerator cable would be XG, adapt to fit the pedal. Just my opinions mind Good luck;.

Grand Tourer do repro globes for around $1200 a set i reckon.

Also how are you going to get around the security system, a mate of mine runs a barra in an xf speedway car and i believe he has left the security system in place with the key parmanently in the ignition to be able to run. Also the later BA autos don't have provision for the speedo transducer i think. The wiring wouldn't be that hard to sort, it would just take you time to sort through. I'd use the original ECU etc and just weed out the systems and wires i did'nt need. But time consuming!! Go manual though And Gav would you need to get it engineered as it's the same cubic capacity as standard?

I've had both and same, neither was a great fit, however the fit can be improved with that stick on sound matting and then use some contact adhesive to stick the carpet down. Don't use a drill to do the holes, use a test light to find the holes and slice them carefully with a blade, heaps easier. Oh and start from the tunnel and move outwards.

The blue ones will be out of a TR/TS Magna, they are better poundage than the ford ones, I use them in my race 6. You will need to have it tuned if you use them. From memory the AU ones are not desirable because the spray pattern is wrong for the chamber (i think). If it's a stock engine just find yourself another set of standard ones cos the uprated ones will probably make it run worse. And forget about V8 ones, 6 cyl ones are better.

The manufactuerer has been out of business for a long time. It was an Auscar bar for the thunderdome. I bought the last bar he had, the mould had been crushed cos he couldn't sell it, a couple of mates had a mould made from my bar so it could be reproduced. The guy to contact about it is Grant from Pedders in Bendigo, i spoke to him today. He might be able to do a better price for you, he had to check what they cost him to make in the first place Google Auscars and you'll see plenty from the ef era. Cheers

Yeah I can source you one, my friend has the mould for them, but there is one made already, $650 was the price last time he sold one. If you want one let me know. There is stuff all available for the EF/ELs in the way of good bodykit stuff.

Unclip hose in engine bay, if you have nothing to check the pressure with, hold your finger tightly over the end and start car, it should be able to push past your finger real good, if the fuel pump is no good, it won't. Very basic DIY, really should have a guage though.

Here are some pics of the contenders, I do like the red/yellow....Hmmm.

I use a Baldwin B2 which is the same size as the AFL1 but has heaps better flow, no probs at 7000rpm all day. Cost about $20 though so not as cheap.

You could run either steel bundy tube or if you can secure it out of the way of getting ripped off, use rubber line. Cheaper and easier,. Can't remember what XF's had, maybe find a whole intact line and put it in.

Yeah thought about that Ant, but the earlier schemes are more attractive, besides Valvoline give me good sponsorship, might be a bit rude to paint it in Shells colours!! LOL With the earlier ones i can hide some Valvoline stuff on there and it would still look right.

Is it high comp, what oil did they supply originally (15/40 Durablend for example)?

OK so i was originally going to paint the EF racecar (see above) in the same colours as the Moffat XC from 78, now I'm tossing up whether to go the Tru Blue, incl graphics or the Greens Tuf incl graphics from Dicky's XD and XE? Any thoughts?

Job is easy as, should take 4 hours, done and dusted, then regass A/C. Easy peesy

Run the large one on the front and leave the rear alone, it will help power delivery to the road. Springs and shockers will help handling heaps. Also get as much castor on the front as possible, will give you neg camber on turn in but won't alter straight driving.

The best bang for your buck IMO is cam regrind, a set of blue top magna injectors and a chip. Bout $1200 in parts, cam and injectors you could do yourself, chip is a bit specialised to stuff around with yourself though. I have a bit more done to mine, but it pumps out 220+Kw at the wheels.