Stevemack

Follow all the wiring back till you find where they originally cut the loom, and rejoin it. should be pretty easy.

Did you set the cam sensor correctly?

What XCSEDAN said, good heads, a cam and good ignition system will work wonders.

The sump is obviously going to give you slightly more accurate temps, but at the sandwich plate on the block is only minutely diff in temp, and easier to do than pulling the sump off. ILIED, Imo a thermostat in the oil system is overkill for what we are doing, not saying it's a bad idea at all, but I think Trev just wants to know whether the oil is getting up to a temp that may cause damage to the engine, if it's fine then thats OK but if it's getting hot, then a larger oil cooler or repositioning might be needed.

Sandwich plate is fine i reckon. I run one from there and works great. In response to ILIED, a track car runs at near max revs most of the time it's out on track, an oil temp problem can destroy bearings, rings etc, even though the water temp can still be within reason. If you can keep an eye on it, why would'nt you want to monitor it, expensive fail if you didn't.

Make this up, A 600ml coke bottle or similar, a piece of rubber hose that fits snug over the nippless, then poke hole into lid and insert hose. Fill with 1/3 brake fluid. When you crack the nipple, put the hose on and then pump to your hearts content, won't suck air in but will get it out. Keep an eye on the fluid though. You will be able to tell when you are getting fluid through cos your bottle starts filling up. Then when no air bubbles do up nipple and remove hose, done, move to next nipple. Oh you should also start the bleeding at the nipple furthest away from the master cyl. Good luck.

Put the hose in the plenum only and check if water appears, if not then it's probably the windscreen seal.

I have done all these swaps and here is what i learned. You can put the AU in BUT you will need to chop the front of the sump off and reweld it to slope like the tin one does. OR cut and shut the front of the K frame to fit the Alooy sump in, you can't change sumps as the main journals are cross bolted through the side of the sump. If you want the best of both worlds you need a EL hybrid block (1998) serial number cast in the side is VR2A, these are essentially an AU lower engine with the crank girdle but without the cross bolted bearing caps. They also have a lightweight crank. Then use an EF/L head, better flowing. The XG manifold and injectors etc and the XH belt tensioner and A/C bracket and run the serp belt. Leave the XG ECU. You can put some Bosch blue top injectors in it, a cam regrind and a chip and bingo, good horsepower. Shouldn't be telling you this cos those blocks are already hard to find! I run this setup in my race car and it's got heaps of snot! So in short an EF/L is the best option for you IMO.

Twin GRA setup is a sweet thing, runs faultlessly for years after a proper tune, not heaps of bloke can do it though, because the metering rod often needs to be machined to suit the engine. But again you really never have to put a spanner on it!

I have just removed a gas research throttle body setup off mine, great system, just for the price of gas i could get better power off petrol, probably cost less too.

We use an electronic tester that tests something in the fluid, fucked if i can remember what it is! LOL When the red light comes on it's time to change that shit!

If there is no leaks (you would know) It's going out the exhaust, I've found that some fully sythetic oils and some engines just don't work together, ends up burning the lot. I would always use at least a semi-synthetic oil if not a purely mineral based oil in those engines.

E85 will require a fair bit of stuffing around. E85 eats normal o'rings etc so you would have to replace everything rubber in the system with E85 compatible stuff. Unless it's LPG only forget it. Stick with old 91 unless you have some mods in mind.

Put a mini spool in it!!

Pretty sure they dont fit mate, need serious surgery i reckon.

Ok so the painting has finally started, well started with the wheels on the weekend, also have been cleaning the interior of body deadener etc ready for some colour. I have chosen to go with the Peter Jackson colours. So it starts. In undercoat In colour And with some new Nitto bags

Sounds dizzy to me mate, modules are always shitting themselves.

You'll need a micrometer to measure the journals, then compare readings to standard specs.

Fuel dude, check rail pressure( just pop a guage up under the bonnet and go for a blast. Check that it's not losing pressure. Also check the fuel filter, buggers block easy.

I'm in central vic

I'd be interested in an XA-XC sedan one if anyone has one?

Ive got a pair of AU stockies that i got re dished to suit my EF, good dish and fit great. I could part with them if you want, might be dearer than normal stockies but look cool. PM me if you want some pics.

You know a little trick we used to use at Ford, was leave the alt and A/C bracketry in place and lever the old water pump out, then cut the 1/4 inch off that top bolt hole that goes behind the bracket, water pump slides in neat as, then silicon the 1/4 inch washer back in and bobs your uncle, never had one back, done hundreds that way. Takes the time down to less than an hour start to finish.

Handbrakes squeak like buggery when they are a little tight, too tight and you would get the groaning noise, have you check to see if the wheels turn on the jack by hand? If the handbrake is OK then i'd check the calipers, especially that one with the missing dust boot.

I went AN12 on my race car, it runs to 7k though, anything less and oil pressure was dismal.