winton

Winton measure that coil bind to put Dave and I out of our misery. Also what valve stem seals did you use and are they being picked up by the dampener?

i'll have a look over the weekend

Nah I didn't buy the head glen had on gumtree , I've had this head for 10 years.

Dave i'll measure and get back to yas

Dave

Didn't measure the coil bind just a visual check, thought it looked fine but I will measure it now.

PTV, just assumed because I had bugger all off the deck last build.

 

As for the head, yeah I'm going to have it flowed and work done to it. How well it flows now I don't know , apparently its a Dave Adams head but I didn't get it from him so I can't say for sure, also I had it reconditioned by Chris Milton engine developments and they said it was the best xf head they had ever seen, weather the guy was genuine or just blowing smoke up my arse I don't know.

 

Ando

yeah I'm backwards.

 

Question and might sound stooopid , "zero deck hight" Would this be the term used for the deck flush to the pistons at TDC?

Didn't dial it in, I'm pulling the engine out next , need to raised the comp so I'm pulling down the engine and having it decked plus adding a stud kit. Figure with the cam fitted I can measure the clearances to see how much I have to play with. The engine has dun bugger all ks since I built it and i only got minimal taken off the deck when I had the machining done, I'll be using the same bearing when I put it back together , now that the cam is run in I figure I can just drop it in and go. I'll set it up properly when I put it back together .

Well got the new cam in not with out a few stuff ups. Somehow I got the oil slinger caught in the chain, be fucked if I know how that happened. Also I must of lent on the choke, ran like shit when I started it took me a bit till I find the choke closed. That number 1 lifter what a pain in the arse, took me about 20 minutes. Lost a push rod think it fell down a oil drain hole, found it hugging the block hiding under the head gasket. All worked out in the end though .

Also if you are planning on using bolts or studs it is good practice to have the machine shop mill out the first three threads where the head bolts go into the block. Both studs and bolts can pull the threads up over the face of the block when torqued and can cause sealing issues around the bolts. Yes it does happen.

Hay Ando76

Any reason why you can't do this at home with a drill then run a tap down it to clean up the thread ?

Thanks for your input Ando.

This thread is has become a good read for all (I think), I googled my original question and about all I could find was peoples opinions without any past experiences on the matter.

 

Cheers Sly, Pro, Ando

Thanks Dave.

I was hoping someone would have past experience like this , I don't plan on leaving them in there long but this gives me some confidence about the time they will be in there.

I move slow so it could be 12 months before I get around to getting the valves changed, between now and then the car will have little use and won't see the road.

Thanks Rob , yep just made this primitive looking thing to remove my inner valve springs.

Will it be a issue using multi groove valves short term with a solid cam? I have crow locks and retainers fitted , basically just want to run in the cam in before I pull the motor down.

Can anyone tell me the weight of a ba turbo engine?

 

My engine stand is only rated to 340kg.

These valves ;-)

I couldn't find the exhaust valves in Aus , no one must wont them here.

I had a xe i could knock out the broken spline, it had a two pin center but my corty just couldnt do it. have to pull the diff apart, pain in the arse but its easer to clean. I pull axles out regurarlly and check to avoid this.

 

Or go to a streetfire msd for $170 and wire up your est dizzy to and watch the difference in the car.

I did this about 2 weeks ago. Works good.

rear

I fitted r31 skyline brakes and axles. mainly did it to fit the r31 28 spline axles. here's a link. http://fordcortina.com.au/newforum/index.php?topic=1901.msg6808;topicseen#new you could also use the r31 disks on the corty axle having them redrilled to he corty pattern, you would need to have a spacer made to fit between the disk and raised round section on the axle flange. just fabricate a mount for the calipers, it could bolt to the axle retaining plates. you probably could get away without making a spacer for the disk and raised section on the flange guess its got no load on it.

 

front

haven't done anything yet but plan to use a disk from maybe a focus the last of the 4 stud ones and have the disk drilled and taped to bolt straight to the original hub, not sure what calipers I will use maybe BA.

 

master cylinder

some guys fit a xb one, think they almost bolt straight on, brake line threads maybe different. not sure what master I'm going to use.

r31 skyline disks.

I shortened my diff without cutting the housing. pushed the axle deeper into it with some machining. (25mm each end)

I worked out I could put up pictures so I thought some off you would be interested to see what my axles look like with the different offset.

this is a picture of original offset, sorry for the poor quality.

and after.

my original goal wasn't to shorten the diff but to replace the 25 spline axles with 28's. its a Cortina diff and I used r31 skyline axles.

I could of sunk them another 10mm but would of had to respline one axle. in total they are 30mm shorter but once the disk is fitted you lose 5mm.

good point but i could of put it onto some v blocks and pressed it straight after a tack weld.

I shortened my diff without cutting the housing. pushed the axle deeper into it with some machining. (25mm each end)

 

At first I thought about cutting the housing and using a sleeve to keep it straight, idea was to cut it about halfway down the axle tube, cut off desired amount , then put the sleeve over the axle tube, the outside diameter of the tube would have to be the same as inside diameter of the sleeve, knock them together and weld the sleeve to the axle tube.

 

only a idea as I didn't do it and if the "sleeve " can't be bought straight from a steel supplier the cost of making them would make it not worth the effort .

what's the seat pressure on the clevo springs, think I need ones rated at 125lb, and I assume the locks are single groove, how much?

yeh got a crow 647, lift is .5967, duration @50 is 254 . think the head has had the pads done, atm has crow 7333 fitted.

 

I'll have to use you rod measuring idea to.

rods are 250 xflow, revs cam pulls to 6500, ferrea valves single groove, still need to get some valve springs and pushrods, hopefully the yella terra adjustable rockers are upto it. I'm buying stuff as I go.

last build the pistons all had marks on them from the valves so I didn't deck it as much as I wanted but I also didn't check clearances. think I'm gunna need to put more effort into the next upgrade. thanks for the Help.

cheers. found a similar chart on a Honda forum yesterday, if anyone's interested here it is

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3063102

bit of a topic change but can anyone tell me the minimum piston to valve clearance?

cheers all. @ ReVhEaD can't do pictures, phones not compatible with site and can't workout how to cut and past on computer. its fluffy black on threads and ring. Electrode, tip and porcelain clean, like new. did take it for a squirt before I pulled them, kept it above 3k apart from when I backed it into shed. Did a comp test, lower then I expected . 9.8, going to a solid cam so need to up it to 11. thinking I'm gunna offset grind a crank and have the ring/lip on top off the pistons milled down to bump comp depending also on deck hight. Already talked to the guy I get my machining done ,said he can do it with the conrod on.

Ando, that's not weird, This is weird.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtube_gdata_player&v=FbuluDBHpfQ&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DFbuluDBHpfQ%26feature%3Dyoutube_gdata_player