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winton

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Posts posted by winton

  1. Posted

    Hey mate, have a look over these that I did for a TE. I folded the chassis lip up so you don't need to cut the lip, stronger and less cutting of standard metal. If your in Sydney and are interested in getting them done, let me know and I'll give you some details. They take about 4 days to get done and so far everyone has been happy with the price.

     

    https://www.facebook.com/ToughGarage

     

    Cheers I'm in sa.

    I had though maybe I could fold it.

    Will probably go a head and tub it. Thinking as long as u do it neat it won't ever get noticed.

    slydog and Oscar of Markoz reacted to this

  3. Posted

    I can't see any benefit really, but I don't want to put the car back together and say to myself wish I had that extra 30mm now.

    Was thinking maybe there's a reason im missing other then then to say "its been tubbed" .

    The diff I'm fitting is 30mm shorter each end so the track will be out anyway.

    wagoon reacted to this

  4. Posted

    Considering tubbing my Corty to the rails but after taking some measurement I'm not sure its worth the effort.

    Looking at it I will only gain 30mm. I would also have to cut the wing off the side of the chassis rail, thinking that could give the car a defect if spotted and it would be hard to fix if they picked up on it.

     

    I've Seen a few people over the net that have done it.

     

    Is there something I'm missing? Seems like a lot of effort for 30mm

     

    I plan to set it up for 400m but will use it on the road to go to the local shops etc.

    I should be able to get a 9" rim in the standard tub with the right offset

    IMG_20160105_220049.jpg

  10. Posted

    I'm thinking unless the noise was coming from the bearings on the carrier it's still going to be noisy.

     

    How did you go getting it in?

     

    I've built a few diffs over the years,only for myself. The first time some 15+ years ago I put in a spool. Cracked the shims that sit each side of the bearings (no diff spreader). By the time I got it in I didn't care anymore,it worked fine.

    Next time I had the idea to put the center in the freezer over night. Worked a treat, always do that now.

  11. Posted

     

    Was keen to see one of these kits fitted. I bagged my xf ute using a used kit out of a hilux.

    I looked at mounting it where the bump stop is but then I couldn't go as low as I wanted. I sat the bags on the springs just behind the diff, probably not the best spot to fit them but mehhh.

    20150906_124043.jpg

    Also fitted a tank and pump

    temporary_18.jpg

    XFChris and bear351c reacted to this

  13. Posted

    Yeah your pump (c1) should be fine. Its basically the same pump that was used on the latter v8s with the plastic housing (c2 )but the high pressure line won't work. I think the c1 pump was still used in the xa xb so if you can find a high pressure line from one of them it could work, or you will have to get a line modified or made.

     

    Another thing I should of said was I'm not sure what the law says about cutting and welding chassis's, it may need an engineer certificate.

    Something you should look into. The last thing you want is to fit the ps box and the car gets defect for modifing to the chassis.

  14. Posted

    The problem is the chassis needs modifing.

    The box fouls on the chassis rail and the lower of the 3 holes that bolt it to the chassis rail dosent line up, its about a half a hole out.

    You can massage the chassis with a hammer so the box will sit flush, it takes a hard hit to smack it in enough to do this but it can't be seen when the box is in place.

    The bolt hole thats about half a hole out needs to have chassis cut and welded to change the position of it.

    I have seen a box where the guy used the original hole in the chassis and modified the steering box, basically redrilling the hole and put a nut and bolt through it instead of the bolt screwing into the housing.

    xwroo and Stu5766 reacted to this

  15. Posted

    you may not need to replace them, from memory the sector has needle roller bearings, should be fine and the worm has the ball bearings that roll in the cup thingies. Check the surfaces for pitting, good chance they will be ok.

    the needle rollers, ball bearings and the recirculating balls can go every where when you pull it apart, don't loose them.

  16. Posted

    Ok so I'm keen to get stuck back into my Corty, sick of no having a hot xflow to have some fun in.

    As you can see I've let the shed go and I need to make some room, so this weeks mission is to clean it up and get back into it!

    temporary_12.jpg

  17. Posted

    I worked in a suspension place years ago and it was common practice to cut the bump stops in half when installing sl's.

    I think there is a minimum length for a bump stop something like 2".

    Id just cut them down to 10mm and live with it. That being done they may split from the constant pounding but it is what it is.

  22. Posted

    Is a high energy sump with the extra bit welded in at the front to clear a hv oil pump, I built the engine before getting on the net so I didn't know not to use a hv pump..

     

    In a nut shell specks are 570 holley, Cain manifold, head ported , 1.84 inlet valves, 1.6 exhaust, acl pistons, did have a 650 crow cam fitted changed to a 647, engine is in pieces at the moment.

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