BigCav

found a thread on AFF about how to make the ef work in an ed body, looks to hard/complicated and hangs low off the body (speed humps) so back to the ed nc idea lol

the 3.23 range of ratios is pretty easy to get in fairlanes, i guess due to the extra weight they came with the lower gear, surfing ebay etc now and most are 3.23 from nc nf nl etc

hoping someone can CONFIRM the handbrake issue, some people say no, some say yes but cant find a definate answer

oh and then im guessing handbrake cables will be different between a lwb and swb too, all the info on the net relates to falcons

am i safe in thinking a nf or nl fairlane is a good place to find a 28 spline 4 pinion open centre with longer hand brake cable to suit LWB in 3.23 ratio?

just a quick one, read that much info lately its all becoming a blur

initially i thought id use an ed diff for the ease of the handbrake system to fit into my zk, they are also semi hard to find in lsd and have decided im going to fit an aussie LOKKA

so are all eb2 ed open diffs still a 28 spline 4 pin ?

then i also noticed the brakes are bigger on the ef el diffs and easier to find and was considering changing the model

what is involved in using the ef el hand brake system?

glenn has sourced me a steel LWB tail shaft from an xg already so thanks again mate

do both ed and ef have the different selectable upper trailing arm mounts? which one do you use on a superlow car?

true, but then why do they have splines, surely they are there for a reason so you might find you have a different issue using a bolt too

not any harder pulling a pin out then the bolt though

bayfords are sellings the rares kits, i have a suspicion they have come in at rares now anyway

remind me tomorrow panko and ill check for you

if you get stuck or still want to go ahead your more then welcome to come up to kilmore and use my lathe, i even have both rares and NOS pins as samples

cheers mate, makes sense, thanks alot

i have read heaps of posts in relation to falcons but nothing fairlane

am i right in thinking ill need to source the diff from a falcon/fairlane, but the tailshaft will have to be from fairlane or wagon?

is a fairlane lsd diff still the same 28 spline 4 pinion as used in an xr? are the falcon lsd's the same as an xr?

is an xr tailshaft the same in eb/ed? i know in later models they were improved over a base model falcon? if so then the toughest tail shaft to suit a fairlane would be from an xr wagon?

also once i polish and paint the moulds, should i clear over the polished stainless to or only over the painted parts?

Hi guys

any hints and tips on how to remove the stainless moldings around the window frames on the doors? roof gutter etc?

just mucking around now and i seem to start getting somewhere and then the trim starts to bend so i stop in case i damage them

havent ever seen one in australia but you see them heaps in the usa so have a look over there

i personally use a 25 dollar ebay special bluetooth obd2 reader and the torque app, love it

i think youll find everycar has them after like 2002 or something, not 1996 either

had a faulty tacho cause a similar issue

did you remove the resistor wire to the coil from the oil points system?

thanks for the info mate, alot to take in but i get it (i hope haha)

trying to compare your dizzy to mine i know mine has a larger gap in the cap aswell as a wider tip to the rotor so hopefully it covers alot of those issues.

They probably dont fit your copy but they have off the shelf adjustable rotor and veiwing cap now too which should make it alot easier if i do have to adjust it

Any chance you have a higher resolution pic of the timing curve?

Hey Gerg

what dizzy are you running, i have a large cap 8580 and running straight lpg i want a timing curve around 16 base to 30 all in (14deg retardation)

im hoping i wont need to phase the rotor, cause honestly it sounds like a pain in the arse especially on the initial install

thoughts?

how have you found the setup now youve been running it for a while?

i am avoiding the vacuum module for now just for ease of install and MAY add it in later on, did you notice a difference between running it and not running it?

This picture shows the cable in the bracket when it was up the other way.

 

 

 

I found it just knocked the air filter based on WOT.

with my impco 425 i have to use a 3" k&n with a raised base and a 1" air filter spacer so i doubt ill have clearance issues underneath

thanks heaps for the pics

yes you can rob

lmao, what brand was it? couldnt see a brand on the package so assumed, non of the online photos show the shape of the cable retainer so cant really tell which brand will work etc

is that the procomp one?

Cheers for the info guys, the usual ozfalcon wealth of knowledge

Has anyone used the universal style billet throttle body brackets on a holley base with a factory cable?

i dont have any of the stuff here in my hands at the moment to look myself

if the factory cable isnt suitable what cable did you end up running?

My Setup is a zk fairlane, 351c, factory cable running to a impco 425 on a holley base plate to weiand 4 barrel manifold using combination of modified factory throttle brackets on manifold studs, its an eye sore and im up for a new throttle cable too so may aswell try something out

nobody does a brown colored pinchweld yet to suit, the old rare spares colored stuff hasnt been available for years. there is an early holden pattern which is too thick from memory, a commodore pattern is about to be released which i imagine would be closer

the 1/4 window seals are gone unfortunatly, the tooling and supplier was lost about 3 years ago when empire rubber went broke, rares bought all the NOS but its all gone now as far as im aware

nice work trev

spark plug recomendation of heat ratings will vary depending on year of motor and emmissions/compression etc, personally like the Autolite part number: 24  equivilant to bp6fs and cheaper too, alot of my customers swear by them

coil numbers will vary depending on model too, points or electronic etc, personal preferance is an MSD blaster 2 for electronic ignition

double check your dayco thermostat, dayco changed there stock in the box from flowkooler 333-180 (cleveland) to 330-180 (windsor) a while back, i got them to change it back but plenty of wrong stock still floating around wharehouses, these part numbers are on the side of the actual thermostat, or you can tell because the 333-180 has the little flange on the bottom, 3 years ago these were 80 bucks from repco, 30 bucks from rare spares and 20 bucks from vpw (packaged under milodin brand) so shop around

water bypass ring can be bought from the detomaso pantera forums new

for those of you who like to drag the knhp3001 is the k&n oil filter that matches z9 spec, they can be spannered on and off and have provision for lock wiring as per drag strip rules etc

Trev if your ever keen on compiling a big proper list with me one day id be happy to edit/create a thread one day that goes full in depth

dead alternator

thats the rule in every state

Yeah i was doing it myself as i couldnt get anyhelp, i'll give it another shot after the W/E

one of my favourite tools i ever bought was a good pneumatic brake bleeding kit, i personally have an airboy

they can vary in price from 100-200 bucks but well worth it, i use it for so many other things, can even drain the engine oil out of the dip stick with it etc