BigCav

on a standard motor the pcv will only see a little bit of oil mist and cause no issues, on a worn out motor or high performance motor excessive amounts of oil mist can be fed back into the motor causing oil inlet manifolds and spark problems etc so thats when a catch can is fitted, these seperate the oil from the air before its fed back in to be burnt off

dont remove the pcv system

PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation

its a very basic system and no issue at all using a breather on the rocker cover

when an engine is running gasses and emmissions are created inside mostly from gas that escapes past the piston rings etc, in an old car these were just vented to the atmosphere by a hose and would drop oil mist and also release emmisions out to the air

now they vent that air back into the engine so it can be reburnt (better for the environment)

there is a suction hose and an inlet hose, the suction hose is routed from the inlet manifold under the carby (throttle body) so that it sees constant suction, this sucks the air contstantly into the engine through the pcv valve from out of the rocker cover, if they just left it at that the crankcase would depressureize but there wouldnt be any airflow to suck the air out, so they also add a vent on the rocker cover to let fresh air in, this hose goes from the rocker cover to the air cleaner assembly at a point past where the air would be filtered so only clean air is getting sucked into the engine cause you obviously dont want dirty air mixing with your oil

reading above people assume that its sucked into the top of the carby, that is incorrect, the pressure is lower bellow the carby then in the air cleaner so the air will always flow through the engine and out the pcv valve, most people, myself included remove this inlet hose when changing air cleaners and put a stand alone filter on the rocker cover, nothing changes in how it operates it just looks better

note too that v8's have the pcv and inlet on different rocker covers so it flows from one head through the crankcase and out the other head, better design then what they can do on a 6

NO, the msd billet dizzys require a CDI box but the cdi box can be used on a factory dizzy

if your budget is big enough and your talking a v8 the larger capped msd dizzys are better at avoiding the spark jumping from post to post inside the dizzy cap compared to the factory units when running a programable cdi box

should i?

xebruce: while that is true EF style fans had no dramas sucking through my 5 core radiator at all, if it will do that 5 core burnout master it will do anything, the thing was huge

nothing just yet, decided to overhaul the whole engine bay first and have ordered a derale dual stage thermo controller from the states that ill try with the std 3 core and fg fan first, im not expecting it to work 100% but I spent a bit of coin and these parts which will be useable on either option of radiators so ill see if its enough now and upgrade later on rather then blowing a shit load of coin straight away

22 psi on the HP, about 11-15 on a Std filter i think (im assuming these figures are for pressure differences on either side of the filter material)

FL1A = 300 psi burst rating on the canister. FL1HP = 600 psi burst rating canister

edit: dont take that for gospil though, different sites give different specs, the burst and releif pressures are always higher on the HP when you compare them on the same sites but different sites give very different figures

there is about 3 or 4 variations on the alloy pumps and when you buy one off the shelf you should really take in a sample of the old pump

i have come accross this issue before as not all water pump brands sell the correct pump for cars, some list the same pump as suiting all clevelands where as i have seen differences in these boss's between cleveland fitted f trucks and broncos etc

i dare say its just the wrong water pump

not bad from memory lol

do not that using a FL1HP is a complete waste of time unless you are running a higher pressure oil pump, this is the filter used on a GTHO engine or something with an aftermarket oil pump, it has a different pressure relief spring inside

yes they use a Z9 filter, unless its been fitted with an oil cooler and sandwhich plate in which case it will use the shorter version of the same filter which is a z89a

also can use

Wesfil WZ9

Drift D1-MF9

K&N     KNHP-3001

Motorcraft (80s appearance) D9AZ6731A

Motorcraft FL1A

Motorcraft racing FL1HP

cant comment alot cause i am yet to install one but i recently have weighted up all the options and decided on the programmable 6al2 personally

ultimate control and very easy to program, easily upgradeable vacuum/boost controls etc

price wise i basically said to myself, if i am considering one because its cheap then i can save for another week or 2 and buy the best option from the beginning

anyone used the VHT copper spray? that seems to be the easiest to get at any auto store

i would of thought not, xe yeah probably but xd has the lay flat spare tyre etc, completely different boot floor and mounting point compared to an xe xf zk zl fd fe

the ea to earlier eb listing had about 30 different diff identification including hybrids like that, they class them as HD diffs but list 2 pinion or 28 spline etc but not always both, so yeah ford has the identification numbers for those diffs but couldn't confirm that until I actually checked them physically I suppose

have you ever checked the ID reference in the middle of each of those listings? cause the ford parts program has notes everywhere saying not to go by other id tags etc and to use these ones instead

Thought id post these here for any of you guys investigating BW78 upgrades into your XA-XF falcons

These diffs listed bellow taken from 2/92 EB to ED (NC2) falcons are the desired 28 spline 4 pinion disc brake BW 0578 diffs

im not sure why ford list different diffs for I6 and V8 since they are both 28/4 diffs but i have attached them all anyway

4 images attached are:

6 CYL OPEN

8 CYL OPEN

6 CYL LSD

8 CYL LSD

by recently do you mean just converted it and it wont start or youve had it running since and its recently died?

if youve done mechanical work are you sure the earths are all mounted correctly?

depends on what you mean by everything but could be your ignition switch or fuseable link wires etc etc

do you have 12v supply to the dash?

dont have a loom diagram here but its not a wire for a tacho gauge? do you have a tacho dash?

Thanks Greg. Glad you could clear that up. I'll post some pics anyway when the time comes

Why do you Mexicans come up with so many names anyway? C9 being a late 6cyl/Windsor case fill C4 and the C10 being Clevo pan fill C4 and the early 24 spline C4 being a C4!

 

So a C5 is a late C4 with lock up clutch in the convertor...seeing as you will be replacing the convertor with a performance based unit anyway lets just say you have a Clevo pan fill C4 (C10 in Mexican talk) Id's suggest it will all be the same bar the convertor internally bro.I will safely say it will handle a 12 sec easily even close to stock it would if you keep it cool via a BIG and good brand cooler.PWR make good 1's sold under the DC tag.If the fluid is a nice cherry red I's bang a shift kit and convertor in it and drive it.Being a BIG car I would suggest you gear the car up to suit aswell bro to save strain on the box.

the c5 is the one legitimate ford name change and not a mexican mash up lol

i might have to talk to greg and see exactly but what the yank version differences are if any compared to the aussie version other then the convertor but the internal differences on a yank c5 i can find so far are

Large cooler fittings

#9 thrust washer has the normal 2 locate tangs but also has 2 cutouts to line up with an additional lube hole

cooler return passage is also drilled to 13/64" which is larger than a c4 5/32

rear roller clutch spring retainer has the wafer springs clipped to it instead of being loose like a c4

front pump has no checkball in the stator support cooler passage and this passage is drilled to 1/4".A c4 has the passage at 3/16" and a ball fitted

he sun gear where it fits into the front + rear planetaries has lube holes drilled to get the oil from the output shaft lube circuit to the gearsets.The C5 has 4 holes each end @.094" .The c4 only has 3 holes each end @ .040"

forward hub has 5 clutches.It has a different bevel plate in the bottom of the clutchpack Which is .310"overall with a .110" step.

The c4 bevel plate is .265" with a .125"step

hi/rev hub has 4 clutches @.078",All steels @.090" with a dished cushion plate on top

Both the fwd + hi/rev clutches have a thin .140" pressure plates

hi/rev hub has the circlip grooved machined higher also as has been mentioned before that the c5 hub has the capacity for more clutches

c5 has a deeper pan

The C5 valve body is larger than a C4 and has a large letter 'P' on it but some people say its crap, some say its great?

but again all this info comes from yank forums and the boxs these comparisons were done on are case fill not pan fill like mine so there are already external differences so who knows thats different inside

Hi Guys

i have a ford c5 transmission behind my original zk v8, as there is sweet f all info on these at the moment online (for the aussie non lock up version) im forced to ask and hoping someone has some info

what parts are interchangeable wit a c10(c4) ?

do all the performance upgrade internals fit from a c10?

am i better of using a spare c10 i have?

are they stronger/weaker etc then a c10?

ultimatly i guess i want soemthing to handle a 12ish second past in a street trim ltd, not that its making the power now but may one day

that doesnt bother me too much anyway, you can modify earlier brake line to fit, am getting custom braided lines made anyway but your right its not as simple, its probably a requirement for the abs or something

will be going eb ed diff now anyway, decided last night i wont bother with ef el

Cav, when I fitted a EB diff into my ZL, I used a hand brake cable out of a NA and it fitted without mods, was just two piece instead of one.

 

If your interested I've got a EBII sedan diff sitting in the back yard that I need to get rid of, complete disc to disc, with control arms and swb tail shaft in 3:23 LSD.

sending pm now

I been waiting for that answer to cav.

EF/EL run a single hand brake cable and when i fitted the EF Station wagon diff in project goldie you may remember 

i also used the lever type hand brake to tho of cause i wanted that feature.

So those who use the EF/EL DIFF in their falcons or Fairlanes and still use the 'umbrella type' lever i yet to see pics

or read info on what they did to make it work.

 

Do the ED/NC use a single solid brake rotor like whats used on EF/EL?

or are they ventilated? 

check out the thread bellow, its how to make an ef cable setup work in an eb, if eb are direct fit to x series i would safely assume this is what would be needed in our cars

http://www.fordmods.com/post823655.html?hilit=ef%20handbrake#p823655

ea-ed run a 287mm solid rotor

ef-el run a 299mm solid rotor

which version is it from glenn as they are different diffs/brakes?