BigCav

the return rate on the new ones are very low, there has been a bad batch of floats that were damaged and a leak at the wiring pin post on another model but they were all fixed a while ago, there is a new quality control machine checking resistance on every sender and checking the lever arm operation and smoothness across the resistor wiring now too, every return iv had in the last 6 months personally ended up being a wiring fault in the factory 40 year old wiring or dash etc

howards instruments have the resistor blocks and you can repair them yourself easy as, if not send the unit to howards and they can repair yours and do a full reco

whats the vin on it lott?

the trouble is that non of the sports bars are the same as each other really, unlike say a ba where they are all running ford brand bars our x series are all random brands or custom jobs

as far as im aware nobody makes a cover to suit, but it wouldnt take much for a trimmer to modify one i recon

I had my 2v rebuilt stock with new valves for 650 about 5 years ago

Nobody does the good quality versions of the xe guards, and with the tooling costs for the quality fenders and the very small market (at the prices that would need to be charged) they will not be made for many years

yeah as ants said the xe xf aged guards are still old moulds and will be for a very long time, actually i think you cant even buy them anymore

they will be old flogged tooling judging by the purchase price on them when you could still get them

maybe a bent rod

fan resistor block will be shot, they use different size resistors to slow the fan speed down on the first few settings but the top speed setting uses no resistor so will work fine if your resistor block is stuffed

should be behind the glove box somewhere, a few screws hold it on, been years since i looked so memory is fuzzy

hey I somehow got that going too by holding the button while driving.

wont be the same thing, see my post above, this does a fair few changes to the digital displays on the dash

How do you get it to do that cav?

need an obd2 unit and there is a program you run on your laptop while hooked up to the car and it will enable it, best thing i ever did on the ba condsidering most of my driving is highway between those stupid point to point cameras on the hume

i have a cable and the program if your ever in the area but do some searching on the ford forums and youll find it all

sure its on avg fuel and not inst fuel?

fuck all that shit off and fit police mode, best thing i ever did, gets rid of all those trip meter stuff which just annoys you by telling you your wasting to much fuel being a hoon haha and replaces it with a digital speedo which is actually spot on accurate instead of being 3kmh faster like the needle gauge

ba wagon here too, my best daily yet

those are rares seals steve, A ) I know the seller and B ) rare seals have the white inner section of the pinchweld, if on this model car it has the white then its a rares seal, youll notice almost every seller is selling the same seal even if they claim its theres (rares sell through hundreds of rubber retailers), pretty sure even the "BETA" rubber version linked above is white inside

so buy it from whoever is cheaper or local etc

if they are standard bolts use the torque to yeild method, more accurate for that application

http://www.niceproducts.com.au/catalogues/wheel/nuts.php

dunno about a 5mm hole but seals in general run a small maybe 3mm hole at that sort of spacing to vent air when the door is closed against the seal, all depends on the design and car etc

but if you glue the 2 end of a seal together it would hold pressure inside the blister and not squash/seal properelly, so there are holes every (approx.) 200mm to vent the air

i have just messaged a Bob Krogdahl, hopefully hes the one.

his proper name is Michael Robert Krogdahl if that helps

no its a standard pinchweld by the meter, it comes in 50m rolls so impossible to add reinforcing like that pre done unfortunately, you just have to insert vacuum line inside the blister

i didnt bother with any of my last builds and never had an issue but i had seem some stuff years ago with a thinner rubber blister then pinched in the same spot

i wont be doing another set of seals in my car untill i change the interior color over and that wont be ready for months sorry

patents and drawings

http://www.ipaustralia.com.au/applicant/michael-robert-krogdahl/designs/199303732/

remember the crossflow one getting upwards of $4000 dollars with no cams or something too,  this would of been around 2002 before ba

remember there was alot of talk on the forums back then but it all just disappeared

is that right up near the b pillar corners where they tend to pinch up?

loctite 424 should be used, little tip is to also put a little bit of vacuum line inside the blister at the join that goes into both sections of rubber, glue that in and youll get a lot more strength at the join

http://www.loctite.com.au/3320_AUE_HTML.htm?nodeid=8802625912833

xg xh seals are different, they have an additional lip on the inside of the seal to cover the gap where the rigid headlinings dont go all the way to the edge of the roof, i cant remember if the xg xh seal is also double blistered or if that was the commodore seal which also uses the same lip though

nobody makes a new seal with this inner lip that fits properelly, the vn-ns seals go close but stick out a little to far and doors are hard to close

" It also takes up room where air/fuel is supposed to be "

a charcoal canister is similar to a pcv in the fact that its a system preventing emmisions venting to the atmostphere, it is hooked up to the fuel tank (which is now supposed to be a sealed system) so no fuel vapor escapes to the atmosphere, the vapour passes through the charcoal so no bad gasses escape etc, realistictly the carbon is good for about 80,000km and is supposed to be replaced but nobody does it lol, they will also vent back to the engine so vapours can be burnt off etc