BigCav

never ask ... never know lol

They arnt a resistive type sender/gauge, they are capacative so its not as straight forward as youd think, luckily Peel make an inline adaptor just for this application, part number CP94 will let you run aftermarket resistor type lpg tank sender units threw factory capacative type gauges http://www.peelinstruments.com.au/page12.html

pretty sure its the 10mm stuff but there are other sizes available too if im wrong http://www.bodyline.com.au/retail-moulding-packs/5-mtr-d10-retail-pack-chrome

injected utes run this seal according to my parts manuals http://www.rarespares.net.au/rarespares/ProductPage.aspx?product=C0AF9276A And people say we at rare spares are a rip off lol, $4.10 vs $63 dollars is fucking ridiculous

yeah they are a mustang part, same part number and everything, iv got some scott drake versions here but havent fitted em yet, they look identical

that part number doesnt come up unfortunatly, id guess its xc by the number but depending on where that number is, ie if its the part number for the block they may use the same block right threw etc after some research in falcon alone there are 4 different versions, xc and xd are the same but there is a floor/column manual version and also a column auto version, same 2 versions for xe also

cant help exactly but that same switch has many variation, i know xc xd & xe are all different slightly but cant remember specifics, was also used in the equivilant aussie f trucks and cortina too, so there are potentially 5 variations of switchs if it has a part number on anything i can crosscheck my books but oftern they dont match

the gears are still available from any ford dealer for mid 20's

absolutely correct, i have seen this first hand, i was there when Debby Gray blew the oil line off the back of the gauge on her burnout Camaro and was covered in hot oil, burnt her up pretty bad secondly for fuel systems auto meter and others make a safe system for in cabin mounting of mechanical gauges, its a diaphragm system mounted in the engine bay, fuel is pressurized on one side of the diaphragm and the diaphragm pushes onto a glycol based safe fluid which you can run up into the cabin

iv sold hundreds, no issues from personal experience i have used a few, never had any dramas, they were built a little better then the saas i have used when comparing the riced up plastic wheels but the classic and woodgrain stuff is about the same currently have this one, its a bit rice but i have vinyl died and looks a bit better If your after classic look i run one of these from saas on another fairlane, the saas classic series is pretty good

looks like they just resell spectrum rubber kits by there part number system, which are mostly rare spares rubbers anyway, his prices do look good but from the kits i checked are missing a number of products, so make sure you compare like for like, just cause its called a KIT doesnt mean they are the same note how he makes them seem fuller then they are, the xd kit lists bailey channel uprights then bailey channel main as seperate things, these are a one piece seal but he has managed to make his list bigger by adding 2 lines, he does the same thing with the bonnet adjuster kits, these come as a single kit yet he manages to get 3 line items on his kit list cause he lists the bolts separate to the rubber that sits onto of the bolt and then lists the bumpers on the edges seperate too??? but he doesnt even have the plastic nut you need with them either??? As a rival seller of rubber kits i have seen these tactics used all the time, rarely are they as good a deal as they seem

WELCOME BACK MATE, where have you been hiding? Im amazed nobody makes a braided cable, just looked and couldnt find any, have you considered the slide on heat shields? http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/automotive/thermal-and-heat-shield-sleeving

fairlanes run twin bonnet struts too

depending on oil pressures etc i would use HPR15 pr HPR30 by Penrite, they have more expensive oils like there 10tenths stuff but a plain old 302 HPR is more then enough

whats the problem with ear clamps? they are the only clamps iv been able to make work with high pressure, they form rounder clamping surfaces for even clamping and i regularly run them to over 80psi, admitadly not with oil but still pressure is pressure

i dont think those derale thermostatic sandwhich plates work, in theory when cold it should bypass the oil cooler, or atleast some oil flow should, when i fitted one yes my hot idle oil pressure imporoved but my peak cold oil pressures dropped off, if the bypass actually worked it would only drop off when hot, i wont be using one again im pretty sure i used bigger fittings but before you do anything make sure they match to what ever size fittings are on your cooler do you have the right tool for those ear clamps? they work well but if you dont use a suitable tool they are useless

The dayco version is the best on the market, its actually a flowkooler unit from america, i had dayco bring in the correct unit about 3 years ago as they were selling windsor ones to suit, unfortuantly they are expensive, i sell em in my store for about 30 or 35 bucks from memory but i know bursons and repco were over 70 last time i checked some performance shops sell the same thermostat in a Mildon (spelling?) packet relativly cheap, around the 20-30 bucks last time i checked

if you mean its a 14" thermo fan that is WAY WAY too small clevos overheat bad so make sure you check everything, make sure its running a cleveland thermostat not a windsor one like most brands sell, make sure the thermostat bypass ring bellow the thermostat is inplace, check your timing and mixtures etc

I don't recommend it but if you want clean hands go eat some greasy kfc

when youve bought a car thats been sitting for years i give them a clean with warm water and OMO to remove the build up of oxidation etc

jump on the nice products website and have a look

i prefer to buy my stuff direct from the guy sunbury uses, highway brake and clutch in campbellfield, they are generally more expensive but clutch industries do a good kit for mid 200s i think

just buy a new one, under 20 bucks, any auto store, made by cpc, part number 43ec for non locking or sl43ec for locking if your forgetful buy the locking ones, that way the car keys stay attached to the cap when its off the car

throw a 6 cylinder base plate on, xa - xf have the same mounting pattern

yep, knew that one, got a few hidden in the shed for the future out of zj zk fc fd