BigCav

one of my favourite tools i ever bought was a good pneumatic brake bleeding kit, i personally have an airboy they can vary in price from 100-200 bucks but well worth it, i use it for so many other things, can even drain the engine oil out of the dip stick with it etc

was sounding like it wasnt bled properelly to me aswell, have you got experiance bleeding brakes before? its a semi complicated job especially if your doing it on your own etc

cause they operate on vacuum and as such dont cost you anything power wise under throttle (low vacuum) and at cold temperatures the incoming warm air (which cant be burnt again) aids in a cold starts, you also get increased engine efficiency with the higher intake temperatures at cruise type throttles (high vacuum) but remembering it doesnt factor in as much at higher throttles you get the best of both worlds, efficieny down low without reducing performance.

hmm sorry, know of a few falcon ones but nothing commodore

onto what car?

shit image but it shows something i suppose, maybe it goes to a manifold bolt? or a rear carby bolt? im guessing the manifold bolt is across to far

just crossed check the microcat and parts manuals for xd xe xf xg, they all run the same sector shafts and gear part numbers which are xa parts so Ford confirm there are no ratio differences

trade price available from prestige power steering in thomastown if you drop the club name to paul

another tip is to use a smoke machine inside the cabin and see if it leaks smoke outside

i know they rebuild the same etc gaz but they have different part numbers on the worm drive, plus i remember reading threw ford documents saying they changed it to offer a better steering feeling etc ill happily bow to your experiance, your probably touched more boxs (power steering lol) then i touched myself as a 13 year old but ill show you this just incase

in what year and model car?

yes, there were slight changes in xe to the steering box internally but they are the same shit, once rebuilt they will have xg upper bearings etc anyway, the xe boxs are a bit nicer box standard though but they just made running improvements to them, they arnt any different cause its a ghia though note that the hose outlets on the top of the box vary, there are 3 (could be 2, i forget) different types so if your not using the exact box out of the car then double check if your looking for someone to do it then the club has an affiliation with prestige power steering, paul over there gives us a discount

yeah running a flowkooler thermostat

whats the engine combo? in my v8 i run a 27mm whiteline, had a 27mm in a 6 cylinder once and it suffered from understeer, id go 24mm if 6 cylinder iv only ever used king springs, stick with the recommended superlow (depending on what height you want i suppose) for your engine, i went the v8 ultra low which is just a 6 cyl superlow and its too soft i also changed to girlock alloy calipers mainly because i could and i had brand new ones available, dont alot of difference too them so i wouldnt bother unless you really wanted to, something to consider when your doing the brakes too depending on your budget is new brake lines, rubbers are about 40 bucks each, braided are 80 each, i always put braided in mine for peice of mind but thats up to your budget i suppose

would say with 99% confidence your plenum chamber area has rusted threw

in that case go mackay consolidated bushs (good enough for ford to choose as there oem replacement) roadsafe paja, trw, wasp ball joints and tie rods etc, trw are i think threw repco, roadsafe threw everyone, wasp threw everyone i think shocks id use kyb or if lowering ultima short shocks, i personally like to spend the extra money on koni reds as they outlast the gas stuff by a fair bit standard replacement discs go dba or rda, there are plenty of cheaper ones but these are only marginally more expensive pads i use qfm but bendix is good too wheel bearings i use timken, if its japanese its generally good and cbc or bearing wholesalers all do good stuff, you can check the actual brand of the bearings as its writen on the race steering boxs are easy enough and most places use the same supplier for their kits, we have a soon to be announced forum sponsor who does a great job including the xg upper bearing conversion for a very good price brake rebuild stuff is all available by PBR, probably the only brand you can get

thats a shame, they still had em 6 months ago, just jumped on the ford system and they are now gone, sorry mate

should of mentioned that the xd xe parts catalogues only list a part number and no thread, but that part number isnt in the ford fastener book so couldnt look it up

it has nothing to do with the place and everything to do with the brand what sort of level are you going to? my front end cost me 2.5k (at staff/trade prices) just in parts but im talking not a single product in there wasnt replaced and they were all replaced with the most expensive brands etc let me know if your after standard replacements, or koni/whiteline/nolathane type gear etc and i can point you in the direction of the best prices if your after off the shelf standard basically get the brand name stuff out of repco or bursons etc

ford parts manual lists xf as m14-1.5x40mm

probably still a few months mate, but they are being rushed threw as fast as they can, the tooling was "missplaced" by a manufacturer wagoon: if its a front door im pretty sure brand new hinges are still available from ford for reasonable money

yes, plate is still there and i have run 3 different thermostats including a flowkooler from the usa, im not to worried about the engine, it runs hot cause of the combo i have literelly replaced every single thing related to cooling with the car, nothing i havent thought of they are just under radiated as a car, doing a pre and post temperature drop across the radiator hoses with both this radiator and the older one, both of which were fresh rebuilds with a new clutch unit on oem fan mounted in correct shroud and they dont remove enough temperature out, the larger aftermarket radiators could, my last one was a custom unit and i dont know who made it, bought it from xrglen years ago, was hoping people had feedback on other units

ducting as in fan shrouding? yes, ducting as in the sheilds besides the radiator then currently no but i have had them in the past and didnt do anything, have chekced air temperature at idle and with the car not moving (as if im stuck in traffic) and it isnt recirculating hot air back around the front if thats what your implying had to remove side sheilds to fit oil & trans coolers

they are currently unavailable from anywhere, Rare Spares are the only company that make them and there has been an issue with supply at the moment, they will be available again shortly by all means check with your local branches as maybe someone has left over stock but the actual warehouse etc is all sold out

mine is really only hot when stuck in traffic, unfortunatly in melbourne thats basically the whole 60km trip home lol trust me i have covered every base, from the usual basic stuff to heads off with rebuilds and new gaskets, new dizzys with retiming, crane kit, new pumps, new radiators, new clutch fans etc, even changed from petrol to straight gas clevos just run hot, especially considering this is a closed chambers head 351 with 302 rods, running somewhere between 10 & 11:1 comp with 30thou bore job it not a new problem, the motor has been in the car for 10 years and iv put over 100,000km on it from all my experiance the best sure fire fix for hot clevo's is a BIG radiator