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Posts posted by RAWDEAL
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Want it to go fast or just be another OHC engine with a stick in it ?
i don't want another '130rwkw after a cam and tune' lol
which i see a bit of really
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I have bought this camI am not sure if i should get the head ported or not , i want to get its full potential
I have plans for it to go onto a Reco Xb xr6 head, and then into my Manual ed xr6, already has headers, exhaust, 3.45 gears
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You got a recovery bottle.? 2 kinds of cap. One allows coolant to vent through the overflow hose and onto the street, the other has the ability to allow the coolant back into the rad. (recovery type). Make sure they know which one you want. 16 psi should do it.
Got any other temp gauges you could fit up.? Yours might be reading incorrectly. Try turning your fans on 10* colder.
I dont have another guage at the moment , but ill try to get another one if the thermostat doesnt work
its a non recovery type, just spits out on the ground if it overheats
Its an aftermarket BA/BF header tank that i had the mounts rewelded to suit my application
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Coolant/water boils at a higher temp under pressure, Radiator cap has a relief spring, a seal, allows pressure to vent... cheap too.!!
Bottom hose collapsing
Timing issue
Anything in the Windsor block, that may have come loose. EG: dirt, sand, mud that is now in the rad.?
Heat issues are always a PITA, let us know how ya get on.
at the moment it runs a near brand new Tridon cap
the one where you can pull it up to relieve the pressure (great fuckin idea if you need to top it up when its hot!)
Totally forgot to get the damn cap today! To hot outside its messing with my body , im not used to it!
Ill swing past supercheap tmoz and grab one. I assume 16psi is fine ?
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10.5:1 comp
Carby, 600 holley at the moment
haven't been dynoed but suspected 250-300rwp
solid cam
Oh okay sly, was just thinking for future if it is needed.
Maybe if you are boosting it , otherwise if it is 'street strip' its just more of a pain to find fuel!
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Dodgy ignition module or hall effect sensor throwing the timing out, and/or a faulty IAT sensor causing the same.
EFI Windsors are bad for it.
(assuming of course it's an EFI Windsor)
In my experience, they'll get up to 110degrees, but won't actually overheat.
Just run very hot.
I pretty much just want it to run at about 85ish degrees , its lpg only it should run fine , that way if something goes wrong im not already at 96 degrees or whatever they normally run at
Where do i buy the Ign Module ? Car is setup with a Impco 425 and an MSD box on the original dizzy, no other efi hardware at all
The fact it creeps slowly and stays there @ hy speed shows theres air going past but yet temp rises. If the thermstat has a by pass in it or if it's even working can be a issue. Seems very cold for a stocker and car run @ the most efficient closer to water boiling point.
Id change to a hotter thermostat and confirm it actually works and check water flow.Like said maybe the rad is partially blocked and or the thermostat is the issue.
Next question is the gauge imperial or metric ?
Its a metric guage lol
Rad is pretty much brand new, and its an even level of heat throughout
ill buy a new thermostat at supercheap today.. ill also source some of that spring that they use in the lower hose because it sucks in a little bit (but wasnt enough for me to worry about it untill now)
I should add ! this cooling setup (fans / rad / ect) used to cool my grout filled clevo , until it needed to be pulled apart so i swapped in the windsor
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start with a new Radiator cap, go from there
it doesn't use water though?
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I have a windsor in my XB .. and up until a while ago everything was fine with the cooling.
I am not sure why but slowly the temp rises all the way up to about 95/100 (at that point i turn the car off)
even when its a cold night and i am doing a steady 100kmph (which used to hold 80-85 even with no fans on)The only possibility's i can think of is
A: somehow the thermostat isn't opening
B: The new water pump isn't circulating properly.
---EDIT---C: Maybe ignition timing or Gas Mixtures?
car is running an Au rad / Fans and a thermo fan controller
the thermostat is a cold one.. as the car is straight gas. Thermostat is i think an 75 degree?I just put a new water pump in it less that 1000ks ago
I can set the fans to come on anywhere between 20 and 100 degrees -
Hey mate i have heard that AU injectors in an E series (my car is an ED) . produces better fuel econ and power? because of the better spray pattern?
Is this true ? would Ba-fg ones be even better again?
In the next week or two (car is getting a rwc monday) Im going to order a Chip for my ED . with an EL ecu conversion / bbm / thermo fans .. Can you do a premade tune for an aftermarket camshaft?
my email is tomas.tucker@gmail.com -
My advice would be to ditch 4L OHC and go straight to the Barra. They are a much better engine and desinged to be have a turbo in the first place.
+1 for this
Remember that 530HP = 400kw.
so call that 350rwkw.
thats a fair hike for a standard 4.0 , even a valve springed Ba engine i wouldn't push that hard
A set of Spool rods and aftermarket pistons, would be the go..
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Physically the 302w efi will drop straight into the XW using Cleveland mounts and pedestals.
If you look up Rawdeal (I think) on here, he has a efi 302 running in his XB.
The only hard part in my opinion is the electrics, but any one with some smarts would sort this quickly.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
If you want to make things simple
Electric Carby fuel pump (I think holley do a good one that is cheap)
Carby of your choice (maybe a 650 holley)
Manifold of your choice (eldebrock do a lot of good ones for the 302w)
You can keep the original 302efi dizzy
use a Msd #6530 Ignition box
if you look at my build thread which should be in my signature.. it will show you how to make it run without the standard efi302w aircon pump/powersteering ect
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As the title suggests!
What Do you have on the front of your car to help see thru fog or help see kangeroos ect ?I am going to mount a lightbar to my Ed Xr6 , i drive past a kangeroo area on the way to work and ive hit more than a few in the last few years
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Gut the booster and block the line just run unassisted.
lol maybe if you changed the master cylinder? otherwise it would be terrible..
id just get a combo of option 2 and 3 and you should be sweet
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what are you guys doing about the VSS pickup? that determines the pump pressure after all.... or are you just having it pumping at a constant RPM/pressure?
brings me to a couple of questions, does anyone know what the line pressure is on a standard power steering system?
has anyone removed the internal stops on the stock power steering box? so you can actually get full lock.
-- its auto on these man, when you need it , it revs up
-- i think rack steering is more.. from memory the older types is 1800 and rack is 3500
-- no i havnt but that sounds awesome
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I like how you have done the lines, my lines are fully flex , no steel lines , so i have to cable tie the shit outta it so it doesnt touch the engine lol
SXE357 reacted to this -
If you got a dart block with the 4.185 bores, you could go for a 4.5 inch crank and end up with 460 odd cubes.
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yeah its tempting , but id rather just go 4" bore and stroke
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Oh that's right, the 393/408w, stroke away my friend.
I have edlebrock heads on mine but it's only a 302w.
if i cant find a 351w block ill prolly save up and get a dart and go 418
depends though.. should make 550hp with a 347
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I wouldn't be sticking 69cc heads on a 302 Windsor at all, it will drop the comp way down.
Also victor junior heads on a 302 will bog it down something horrid until it gets really high in the rpm.
If you look at the likes of the trick flow 11R heads, one of the best heads for a 302-347 Windsor in most people's price range.
Of course the best head in my opinion for the 302w is the P38 Kaase head.
it will be a stroker windsor though
The reason i am going Elelbrock is because the stuff uses OEM everything , cant beat that
Should make a bit under 550hp
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Ill try to find the company that makes kits for them. its an american mob
thats what i was going to do
http://americanpowertrain.com/ -
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PM inbound!
NZXD - $995 for a pair of fronts for my XD.
Not cheap but I figure by the time you buy a set of Konis, plus new springs, plus spring saddle you're getting pretty close to that anyway, and these are fully adjustable and it doesn't matter what engine you run, so if you ever want to change your setup it saves you money in the long run.
600lb spring rate which a couple of people reckon might be a bit soft for an X series. Guess I'll find out in a few weeks. I'd imagine you could ask them to use a stiffer spring if you wanted.
That's cheaper than I thought, I'm thinking I might order some.
That IS cheap! haha even AUS 1000$ is cheap. (USD would make me think twice) Ill be going from windsor to alloy headed windsor.. so that will change the height in normal springs... and im fussy so id want to buy another set of springs again.. so pretty much pays for itself
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Already put a deposit on mine... Only place I could find that does them is a suspension place in WA and there's an 8 week back order.
They're not cheap though.
Where abouts is that mate?
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Look up XYZ suspension, or similar, they do a coil over for x series.
its not listed on their website (which is a clunky looking website lol)
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Shit, one spring crapped out...
Time for coilovers!
the price for pedders , at like 650$ for a spring/shock kit for the front/
i am actually considering it now lol
not sure who makes them though
New cam. Not sure if i should get the head ported or not?
in 4.0 OHC
Posted
From googling it, is it a place in QLD?
id rather somewhere in vic if i CAN.. that way i could visit and have a chat ect ect.. usually makes things easier
And im hopeless at organizing postage