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Posts posted by RAWDEAL
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took the car for a run.
around town it sits on 82-86
on the highway it creeps up to 100 again????
also when idling it cools down?
arghh
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I have not driven it ! lol
I will be on saturday so ill update then! -
Anyone ever bent stock pushrods? I noticed when putting my manifold back on, #7 inlet had a nice kink in it. I know they're unsuitable for any performance application but mine is mostly stock with a baby cam in it (206/214 @ 0.050", bit over 0.5" lift). I have the MSD soft-limited to 5500 rpm.
I just massaged the pushrod straight again with a hammer handle. All the others looked straight (well the ones that I could turn).
Are clevo pushrods really that crap?
i wouldnt use any stock valvetrain past 3500rpm lol
gerg reacted to this -
Bash the passanger floor in with a sledge hammer and it will fit but the sump you will have to make
twin cam engine has a windmill yes will it fit into a Cortina no you will have to remake the mainfolds sump will not clear anything theres a fair bit to it and not a conversion for the faint hearted
just boost the crossy
what other mods are needed for the 4.0? Would a serpentine setup work in a TD? with manual steering and no aircon.. or do you need the v belts?
what intake manifold fits?
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So today i fixed the bottom hose. it has a spring in it now.
also i have tested the themostats
72c orignial one that was in it , is fine and opens at around 70
81c high flow i bought today, opens at 81
81 normal flow i bought a while ago, also opens at 81
im gonna install the high flow Tridon Themostat, and see how that goes.. i really cbfd taking the themostat housing off again so hopefully this worksOutback Jack and gerg reacted to this -
What type of fan sensor are you running???
Are they multi speed or single speed.
I knew a guy who changed his whole engine due to over heating, only to find it was the high speed fan relay not working.
Fans were only operating at low speed & couldn't keep the thing cool.
That was in an XH ute.
they are just either off , or high. they are AU fans
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You need a spring in the bottom hose to stop the water pump sucking the hose in.
If you are running hot even at freeway driving, it sounds like a flow problem. Are the top & bottom hoses an even temp?? Are the tanks on the radiator even temp??
The other question is, are the fans wired up correctly??
If the fans are wired backwards, you might be pushing the heat back into the radiator, instead of drawing it out. With wind flowing in at 100km/h & fans trying to push it back out from the other side, the heat will be trapped & just keep getting hotter.
Simple test, when the fans come on, does hot air pump out towards the engine, or out through the front of the grill??
fans are good
spring will be done tomorrow
the top and bottom hose are how but the radiator is also hot
EDIT: i was also thinking if that doesnt work . to cut the center from the thermostat, and that will tell me if the fucker isnt opening properly
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i beleive the spring side is the intake side(engine side) so that it gest the heat into the plunger part which causes it to open.
they should make it that it cant go in backwards.. that would be a good idea.
Yeah i changed the Tstat around. Still the same issue.
I am going to put a spring thing in the bottom hose... and try that . otherwise i am not sure wtf is going on !
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if Pavtek are running them in their 550hp 393's - that speaks volumes.
Thanks to all who chimed in!
The only thing ive heard about Scat cranks , is that they are hard to balance . often take a decent amount of time to balance. Some of them need heavy metal welded into them.
other than that , only positive reviews
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It should say to rad on one face. Most do.
it diddnt say anything on it ,,,, .BUT
a quick google of 'which direction to face thermostat'
gave me several youtubes of 302w thermostat installs
i think i had it the wrong way
the spring must face INTO the intake .
ive fixed it with the old tstat. hopefully it fixes it. although i cant remember 100% what direction it was in before hand as i took the housing off and it fell lol
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UPDATE
got the thermostat out
before i out the new one in.. what direction should the face? im pretty sure its spring side faces radiator of that makes sense?
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How hot does it run, if it's not warming up properly it will be stuck in cold start mode and run rich all the time
What temp should these engines run at? My ed has a set thermo switch in it (tridon one) and runs on the colder side of the guage..
and uses shitloads of fuel lol
AFAIK everything else is all good. i havnt scanned it for codes though
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Ive been told there is a factory oil filter that's bolted to the block that feeds the oil to the turbo some times this can get dirty and starve the turbos oil supply make sure your mate replaces the filter or the same thing could happen to the new turbo some one correct me if this is incorrectyeah hes all over that lol.
EARLS make a bolt in replacement. but you HAVE TO wash the filter every oil change. or it clogs and the turbo doesnt like that
i think the earls is one size up line as well
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I recoed one a little while ago for a guy got a new core off fleebay and stuck his housings on it and stuck it on its stock that one but my mates ones on 15psi and has the same core and he has had no issuses and man he gives it a hard time
there on fleebay for about 600 bucks
ive never done it , if i buy a new core is it easy or i think its just slot it in and index it ?
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Holset and Borg Warner are some possible cheaper options
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do you know and good retailers ?
might just be getting a new core from
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A friend of mine bought a ba xr6t ute..
Drove it 300ks and the engine threw a leg out of bed
he wants to replace the turbo with something of a decent brand like a garrett
Are the factory xr6t Ball bearing/ceramic or bush??** It does not have to be the exact same turbo as what they come out with from the factory, as he is getting it tuned straight away
** What are some other turbos that are a bit cheaper? He can only find quotes for 2800+ for a new turbo?
** He suggested a Recore. (as its not really damaged he is just paranoid haha) . But i am not sure if buying just a new core allows you to just slot it in and away she goes ?
I could have sworn i used to have a bookmark of a place that sells very similar turbos for 1100$, but i cant find it -
I remember the good old days with kero bowsers too. Kero was a good power booster if you added it to diesel. You could smell it out the exhaust when someone was doing that. Too much and you could burn holes in pistons though.
We have a Fordson tractor out here , one of the first diesel ones. Its hard to believe they made tractors to run off of just kero to get out of a fuel tax haha
gerg reacted to this -
fuck it I'm changing to the the fastest NA ford six without pushrods and as many cams as can be fitted!! :lol:
Maybe a v6 because they have more cams ? hahaha n/a ecoboost engine
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I am into contact with Kendall baker
I will test the waters , i have a bad run with mechanics / anyone who touches my cars
Im gonna try to get a dyno tune in ASAP.
More on my Build thread. but basically Its going to be just an EL ecu and dyno tune, if all goes well ill send the head off somewhereMenice reacted to this -
Lol the fastest lives in my garage in Qld!!!!
Do cortinas even count ? lol ;P
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Rang the local diff joint and asked the question and old mate told me the only issue he had was it was too expensive.
When they clean out a diff they get out as much oil as possible by draining and mopping out with paper towel, then hit it with degreaser and a pressure wash with water and dry it all out with compressed air.
Was surprised to hear they sprayed water into a diff centre, but apparently its common practice.
Just interested to see what others have done?
Diesel or petrol would prob do the job if your in a pinch lol
Straya
revhead and ricktewagon reacted to this -
did you get a PM off me RAW? I have a built 4litre in the shed its a mock street fighter engine all that's been talked about in here it has PM if you might want it I don't think ill use it again NA has nothing on boosted so I no longer need it
shit my reply must not have worked
ill reply now again lol
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Talk to kendall mate, he'll give you decent advice for what ever end goals you have
Ive added him on facebook (todays version of the business section in the local paper lol)
Asked him a few questions.
Ill be 100% getting a tune with the EL ecu for starters. just to get a bit more econ while i am dailying it
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Yeah they are a funny engine in that you can't bang a great deal of lift into them due to the rocker problem. They break. Having said that I have not yet seen a engine that does not respond to a good seat cut, bowl job and cross sectional area optimisation.Heads make the power
Cam tells it where to make power
Bottom end supports the rest
Greatest airspeed gains are made at the seat
These are all well known, time honoured facts - no secrets there.
From your first post, it sounds like you are planning on getting the head serviced anyway. Why would you not get a decent seat cut instead, considering the cost difference is minimal.
The choice is yours but you have asked for advice. The choice is yours.
im pretty sure a reco with a good seat profile and a bit of a port on the short turn radius really wakes these heads up?
it would be good if i could speak to someone whos done it all before and stuff, someone who can port it ect i can copy one of their other customers setups or something haha
slydog im not fussed if i had to get a head from qld but it would make things more annoying lol
200rwkw would be grouse
Car slowly overheating, even know everything seems to be working ?
in V8 Tech
Posted
Its all factory stuff. new water pump
new everything now. even the fans and radiator
when im on the highway the revs are pretty low... below 2000, not to sure as i dont have a tacho lol
so id say the revs would be higher on average when im around town
the belt doesnt seem to be slipping
Ive just gone from a normal flow to a high flow and the themostats were both tested to work. the high flow helped a bit
its on lpg with an impco425 and an msd 6530. I have changed the gas carb and it diddnt help