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Posts posted by RAWDEAL
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awesome im due to replace mine in the xb
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how low would it be now?
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im pretty sure you can buy 1.5s?
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My brand new super low king leaves were just over 500nz.Then I put in blocks, it settled and now toooo low.
take the blocks out and should be sweet?
what size blocks did u run and how low is it?
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Thanks for the pic.
I figured its better than replacing a set of brakes lol
I just dont like the idea of the clutch and gearbox taking any more load than it needs
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I just rolled into Dick Smith and got a serial to usb adaptor cable and it came with a driver. Worked fine but my $60 second hand Lenovo had seen better days.ill have to buy another one
i wouldnt mind a 60 dollar laptop lol
hopefully it works correctly because it works fine just cuts out after 10 seconds
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Don't forget the windscreen washer bottle full of oil in the boot with the sprayers drilled into the wheelarches. lol.MNTL.XD reacted to this -
yes indeed.ive gotta relocate the pump.. as im doing the battery to the boot and the pumps going where the battery was
ill redo the oil when i move it and see how it goes
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so i am looking at line loc kits... the only ones ive heard of are BnM ones but i dont know anyone whos running one
Main reason for installing is Launch control / Burnouts without burning up the back brakes lol
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hi guys
as you know i have an astra pump in my ute, and have been running atf 3 in it. Have found that the thermal expansion of atf causes the pump to get noisy when warm.
pentrite do ldas fluid which is the correct type for these pumps. Fluid doesnt expand as much when warm either.
mind you atf will do in a pinch but if it gets noisy, then this will solve it.
David
I dunno how i missed this thread!
thanks for the info
im using dex3 .. as i diddnt want to fuck the steering box (because its harder and more annoying to replace
ill switch over to the Penrite proper oil for the pump, although i have genuine holden oil here i got for 30$ for 1 litre from ebay (that price was delivered) that should be the same as the penrite?
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You must use the brownish MSD supplied serial port to serial port cable out of the actual box. Then attach you serial port to usb cable to that. As Jack has said, you need to ensure the usb to serial port cables supplied driver disk is installed.
It is the only way to stop the communication errors you are talking about. I get calls on this all the time. As it mainly occurs when the car is running or on the dyno.
My brother in law is a computer programmer (& aircraft engineer- smart dude) and he explained it to me once but I only half understood. It had something to do with the internal pins and different purposes but it was way over my head. All I know is he said to run it that way and I always have and I don't have communication errors.
ok so i just used the serial port to usb cable
i diddnt get a brownish serial-serial cable in the box?
ill sus their website now to see if they sell it seperate
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I should add that i tryed everything with the ports and drivers ect . i will buy another cable and try that but from memory i bought the one they suggested anyways
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Also check your driver is right for the usb.
Me and Ash had a few teething probs at first because of incompatable driver software.
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Hrmm ok. so ive uploaded a video to youtube on what its doing . ill link it
the only thing i can do really is get another laptop lol ?
which i dont want to have to do
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Hi i am sort of not getting anywhere with the standard 5.0 electronic dizzy that is in the 5.0 that is in my XB.
ive had some problems with the MSD not 100% connecting to the laptop, and im sure its because the msd isnt getting the correct signal or something ((from the dizzy to the msd box)) (which is what ive narrowed it down to)
the main problem is it cuts in and out when im trying to monitor it on the laptop (when the car is running ) which fucks me up because i need to know how many PSI the MAP is reading lol (and is half the reason i bought the box!)
I want to get a Bosch electronic dizzy for the 302w and remove the vacuum advance.. so i can run it through the box for the timing, as they are cheap and reliable from what ive heard.. off the shelf parts ect.but i am not sure how to do this ?
do i just unbolt the vac thing off of the side or ? -
Hey everyone. I am looking at getting a tko 600 for my xf. I have done a search and Malwood seem to be the only australian suppliers of these gearboxs. Does anyone know of any other suppliers in australia.
Maybe VPW or any good gearbox shop
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you can get kyb shorts.. ill link when i get home, 330 a pair
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im running 17s on mine , will prolly end up with 18s anyways, it clears the mount and if i went to big hits the spring
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The install was pretty painless. For once, bolt in actually meant bolt in.
Hopefully should get to properly test them out soon.
Would this setup allow a bigger wider front wheel ? looks like it does
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Yep a set of bilstiens with a coil over conversion on the standard saddle with a new top mount which you can make for next to nothing will out perform those things, day in day out. King springs are about $100 each. Bilsteins can be bought cheap if you look around and the coil over piece can be had from speedway suppliers. All up you would be about $200 better off and have super handling.
Mind you for those that cant DIY these would be a fair option.
How can you speculate without actually trying the coilovers though?
I am not having a go , just curious because 99% sure im gonna end up buying the coilovers
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So you're still running the standard dizzy with TFI and hall effect sensor?That's number three on my list.
yeah ita on your list but 3/4 of it isnt haha
what actually clould go wrong with the dizzy/how can i tell?
i think its 10 btdc idle and 35 all in at 3500
but i could be wrong its been ages
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He said it's a straight gas mixer with MSD ignition.
Where did you purchase the radiator from??
Is it a reputable brand or an eBay Chinese radiator?
i think it was orignally a SSS auto parts radiator
i know it works because it was 100 degrees untill i got home and idled it for 5 mins and it went back down to 85, this was sunday , in geelong, so it was about 25 degrees outside
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It's a fuelling/timing issue then.
look at the injectors, fuel pressure, fuel pump
and
IAT sensor/CT sensor
and
dizzy hall effect sensor, plus the TFI module.
It will likely be one of those things.
My EL V8 wagon has always had the exact same problem.
I've done an enormous amount of research, into how the EECV engine management system works.
or failing all the above...... it's got a blown head gasket (or gaskets).
there is ZERO EFI gear on this car lol
msd 6530 digital programable
impco 425
standard dizzy that i had the rotor phased properly
not sure where to start
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At the moment its i think (not 100% sure) a .75 top gear ratio
and 2.92 diff is whats in it , because i blew the last one up haha
ive tried to drive it in 5th instead of 6th for 5-10 mins.. just makes more noise tbh
is 4th 1 to 1, assuming it will make more noise, does it get hot.. comes back to My original point of labouring outside the range of the cam etc
i tried 3.23 with My AOD then went to 3.45 and then the ratios were all wrong for the rest of it..i should have left it C10 auto.
its a 6 speed manual
so 6th is 0.75 i think. unfortunaly dont have a tacho at the moment
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what ratio is in the diff and what is the top gear ratio.. i found when i fitted an AOD to MY XE many years ago with 2.92 gears it didnt like driving below 2000rpm on the highway, seemed more throttle required than the C10 without overdrive. i dont recall running hotter, but that could well be the cause, labouring due to being out of even the cams range and ign timing etc
At the moment its i think (not 100% sure) a .75 top gear ratio
and 2.92 diff is whats in it , because i blew the last one up haha
ive tried to drive it in 5th instead of 6th for 5-10 mins.. just makes more noise tbh
Spool imports conrods
in 6 Cylinder Tech
Posted
Is buying fake ARP stuff a real thing these days or??