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RAWDEAL

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Posts posted by RAWDEAL

  2. Posted

    I have to get a new sump due to some bloke selling me the wrong type ffs lol

     

    (All in my build thread)

     

    Its for a 347 windsor, in my xb, but im just after build quality so in going to assume that its gonna stay the same for any brands whole lineup

     

    Some sumps ive heard use thin materal and the welds arnt the best, such as high energy after they went offshore

     

    Im leaning towards canton because they offer pickups to suit

     

     

     

    The main brands seem to be

    Milloden

    Canton

    Moroso

    High energy

    Prob others im forgetting

  4. Posted

    yea i know what u mean trying to find info on some of these parts are fkn impossible! id be tempted to go with what msd says tbh since the material on the cam may chew out the gear - can always change it later 

     

    I honestly should have gone bronze

     

    Its the cheapest gear that msd make (they must make big volume lol)

     

    And its the softest material

     

    My engine builder said they are good in street applications also

  5. Posted

    should be able to check your cam ? mine said i had to use a specific gear 

    Im using the stock roller cam , the msd had a tag on it to say to use their steel gear for a roller cam

     

    their website is horseshit it has no info lol. 

     

    my engine builder said the iron gear which came with the dizzy would have been fine anyways , so at least i can install the dizzy

  7. Posted

    Bronze gear is for billet cams, steel gear for cast iron cams and for your case too

    What is the cast iron gear for ? (that is what came with the dizzy, the one i currently have)

     

    i thought it went 

     

    GEAR------------------ CAM

    Iron                  =      Iron Flat Tappet

    Steel                =     Steel Billet Cam

    Bronze             =     ??? Both??

    Composite       =     All cams ??

  11. Posted

    mine just runs two -12 hoses out of the rocker covers to a can on the side

    IMG_20160417_1554491_zpsknuvuik9.jpg

     

    can is this one, but i only paid 90$, bolts up to the bump stop cover bolts

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-XR-XT-XW-XY-XA-XB-XC-XD-XE-XF-BREATHER-TANK-CATCH-CAN-AUSSIE-MADE-ATFD-/400682951032?hash=item5d4a90a178:g:500AAOxy0zhTL3HF

     

     

    I was eyeing off a kit that has that catch can included 

     

    but it will not work with where im gonna put the power steering and turbo 

    and for 250$ i could make one that fits better for what im doing , i have it on the passenger side now next to the radiator

    judgetread reacted to this

  13. Posted

    Mines the same if you twirl too quick you can loose assurance but this is only in parking type scenarios.

     

    Mine has a reco box has been running fine

     

    Have you been running dex3 in it the whole time now? 

     

    I have 245 45 r17s on the front and they are grippy . the pump is pretty noisy all the time im not sure if the genuine oil will make it quieter, but im gonna try that . It doesnt like me dry steering or reefing on the steering wheel while on sealed roads eg doing loops in a closed off road where the appropriate permits have been acquired  <_< it labors the pump

  14. Posted

    Ive got a ts astra pump and it recommends the thin full syn oil. Not sure if the kirby steering box is gonna like that. did we figure out what oils the steering box will tolerate?

     

    Been talking to a few guys saying the Dex3 is working fine in them. I'll probably be going that way and just monitoring for excessive heat and/or foaming/cavitation.

    Im going to change my oil from dex3 to the standard GM oil , when i relocate the pump

     

    ill have a direct comparison then. i never ended up using the GM oil because it took ages to arrive in the mail and i needed to get it running so i used dex3

  15. Posted

    Alright, so update 

    These arrived today
    https://www.aeroflowperformance.com/engine/engine-accessories/valve-covers/fabricated-aluminium/af77-5002blk


    AF77-5002BLK.jpg


    fuck they are grouse quality! The rib around the base that the gasket seats on is at least 6mm thick! 

     

    I have been impressed with every Aeroflow product i have bought so far

    it has 1 female thread on each rocker cover at the front

     

    tommorrow ill order some 1/2" ( dash8 ) hoses and fittings .. its cheaper for me to run it from each rocker cover to the can, because the 2 peices they have plus 2 extra fittings to go on the T ends up way more expensive

    the catch can i have is approx 1 litre, prob 1.5 i have not measured it 

    it has a drain on the bottom and a breather on the top.. 2 female fittings on the front of it 

    i MAY run a PCV from the top of the can instead of the breather, and plumb that back into the base of the carb 

    bear351c reacted to this

  16. Posted

    You guys still running that LDAS Fluid? Hows the power steering box holding up?

    my car has original bushes in it , they are all hardened to shit and worn out now.. and i havnt done many kms in the car either since the electric pump conversion. but it pretty much drives the same.. it doesnt like full lock to lock fishys in the gravel though.. although it still works fine. i need to rebush the whole car basically

     

    but as far as i know doing maybe 2000ks with dex3 in it diddnt hurt it. it doesnt leak ect

  17. Posted

    Jesus christ. Where is Edcon lol?i Will hpc coat the mild steel and have money left over ..Edcon are just small steel suppliers in NSW. Blackwoods also sell them at much the same price and have 45 deg bends readily available too. There's a Blackwoods in Bell park which is close to Geelong

     

    Champion! i was quoted 12+ a bend from a few local steel suppliers lol

     

    i can finally get a quote and order what i need.. i an gonna start with factory headers that are flipped and it should not take long

  20. Posted

    if you linish it back and use S2 "super steel" filler rod it's nice to weld. If its staino you want......

     

    Up to you whether you go 304 or not, read up on carbide precipitation before you do. Mild steel steam pipe bends are about $3 ea from memory in 1.5". Not too expensive.

     

    You must have a long memory or i just havnt had any luck getting quotes lol

     

    been quoted 10 or 12 dollars per bend!

     

    Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

  21. Posted

    Surely the 304 sc40 would last ages ?.. and i can easily repair cracks myself anywaysI am unsure where to find 321 grade thoughYeah sure you can repair the cracks, it will crack again right next to the weld due to the properties of the metal changing forever. Then mount a heavy turbo to that. 321 is a lot harder to come by for sure but if you can't get a hold of 321, what's wrong with mild steel? If you want it pretty then ceramic coat it.

     

    i fucking hate tig welding mild pipe as it oil and shit in it lol

     

    and stainless looks 10x better than ceramic coating, which would double the cost because the stainless is pretty much on par with the mild steel as far as pricing goes

     

    im going to mount a flex in the middle near the front of the pipe/sump/on the long side of the piping.. and the turbo will be mounted directly to the engine so not much weight will be on it

     

    Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

  22. Posted

    I wouldn't use 304 it will crack eventually, it's not rated for high temperatures. 321 is the stuff you want, it's rated for much higher temps. I'd just use ceramic coated mild steel steam pipe personally. It's cheap and should last forever. But if stainless is a must go with 321 grade. I'd go with sched 40

     

    Surely the 304 sc40 would last ages ?.. and i can easily repair cracks myself anyways

     

    I am unsure where to find 321 grade though

  25. Posted

    I do a lof of borgys for cortys and made a jig its just 4 machined up dies that fit into the housing 2 in the center and 2 on each drop saw the ends fit the dies in and stick a tube up the guts to line it up and weld it back together

     

     

    I charge $1000 to do a case and axles or $800 more with strange axles  

     

    id love to see this jig

     

    i have to shorten a ba turbo ute diff eventually

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