RAWDEAL

Ive used several different disk and drum brake rear end diffs in the back of my xb that was originally disc / drum.

The only dramas i had was when i put a disc rear end from a Ed wagon, it felt like there were hardly any brakes.. so i bled it 5 times and then tried clamping the rear brakes as a troubleshooting thing .. and it made a huge difference. Ea rear was fine but the ed they must have changed something

But anyway ive put xc xd xf ea disc rears in before and i never had any dramas

Id just try it and see how it goes.

Has anyone got any pics of this internal proportion valve? Do they come out in only disc /disc car xbs?

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10 hours ago, josh1990 said:

Woah, $800 for a slave? Alloy one from a T56 Camira will work (well, it does in BA conversion). Mal Wood also sells alloy one with bleeder for $150 (https://malwoodauto.com.au/product/alloy-t56-slave-cylinder/). Worth it just for ease of bleeding, which is a massive pita on these boxes. Homemade spacers to get the correct crush.

I was lucky enough to get my T56 for $800. 10k kms out of a BF Turbo. Only problem, it was in Darwin. My little bro did a favour for one of his mates up there and got it down here at no cost to me.

My tailshaft cost me $570 including gearbox yoke.

isnt the bleeder 150 by itself? 

if its for everything its a lot cheaper than last time i checked lol

20 hours ago, Crazy2287 said:

I got a price from mal wood ages ago before i did the hyd clutch conversion on my t5 and just remember that the conversion was gonna cost far more than id ever pay. I just chucked the 5k number there as a placeholder but if anyone has a current cost on t56 conversion for crossy im ibteresred to hear what it is. 

  I think ya can get dogshift gearsets to convert t5's for 2-3k and id be more likely to do that, add an oil cooler  And keep the lightweight t5 box.

what sorta power could u have with those t5 gearsets? 

the quicktime bellhousings were ~800 last time i sussed it outfor a t56

the main cost of the conversion is what price you happen to get the gearbox and slave cyl for

a new slave is 800 or less .. 800 gets you a awesome one

a commodore box is a lot cheaper and has the speedo output and shifter in the right spot.. 1500 would get you one

400ish for a tailshaft to be made up

clutch could be carried over with a friction disk swap, or buy a new one

i used an XB master cyl and i got a braided line made up 150 for the line 

crossmember im not sure about.. i adapted plates onto a xb auto one and drilled a hole in the middle for the t56 rubber

so its not TO bad 

4 hours ago, Crazy2287 said:

If you dont want to take my word for it. Dont mind if dogs get kicked,  And dont care what the gearbox oem says. 

Here is some more good info from the "otherside" just to help solidify the wc t5 oil debacle 

https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/how-to-i-d-your-t5-and-choose-the-correct-fluid.130888/

Its got dex3 in it now, a bit better than the penrite

to get it any bettter ill have to get a reco box (imo not worth it)

or go a 6 speed lol

On 5/7/2017 at 9:55 AM, gerg said:

Lol this is your T5 to the bottle of Dex sitting there:

"I want to eat you... Get in ma belly"

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Nah this is the 5 speed

' oi cunt if u hard shift 2 or 3 more times im outta here!'

i changed it to dex3 made it sorta worse lol . gearbox is rooted

9 hours ago, Crazy2287 said:

Rawdeal.  If you intend on putting transmax z in your tremec t5, then i will be forced to extend my dog kicking clause to inc any dogs in your possession for a maximum penalty of 10 kicks per year for 20 years.  

isnt transmax z just full synth dex 3? which is what you wanted a good quality dex3? 

i will be buying a 5L bottle of transmax z

i will let everyone know how it goes

28 minutes ago, gerg said:

Just watched a clip on Jay Lenovs Garage today about the TKO600 and the T56, the company rep says good old DEXIII all the way. He said pretty much what we said all along, that the oil is a compromise between protecting and cooling the metal surfaces and being "thin" enough to allow the syncros to bite.

If you must use Nulon, I'm sure they make a DEXIII equivalent.

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I have a 20L of dex3 at home and the additive

ill sus out my mate / mechanic after he gets back from holidays and change it out

the 80w .. or whatever he replaced the penrite with is OK.. but shifts shit when hot

since people like to use that g70 nulon additive...

do nulon make a good gearbox oil? 

would make sense to not mix brands?

you sell the walbro 460 on your website, it says to suit Ba... 

can this be fitted to replace the standard intank pump?

20 minutes ago, gerg said:

Don't forget the additive (either lubrizol or nulon) that will give better protection in the high pressure areas like gear teeth and bearings.

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1 small tube thing is enough to treat a gearbox from memory?

21 minutes ago, josh1990 said:

The box has 10k kms on it. If it doesn't work as advertised I'll get a refund on it and run something else. 

mine had 16k , id buy some transmax z and be prepared to change it out immediatey lol. if not just dont open the bottle of transmax and return it 

13 minutes ago, josh1990 said:

In my experience using (mineral) gear oil in place of Dex III, the box should be worse when its cold. When it warms up its always been brilliant. Less rollover noise, better feel and quicker shifts. However, I don't know if using gear oil lead to the demise of the synchro's in my T5 either. Personally I'd be using Castrol Transmax Z in the T5 (I will be using the Pro Gear in the T56 though, as its designed specifically for it) as the synchros in the T5 boxes are rubbish (updated ones are ok-ish, but old style are paper-y) as it is and gear oil doesn't play well with them at all hence the Borg Warner/Tremec reccomendation of Dex III. I know T56 has same reccomendation of Dex III but there are plenty of reviews (both Ford and Daewoo) of it being the best fluid for the T56.

i put penrite in my 6 speed in my xb. same result , shifts felt fuckin horrible ! i dont know why penrite lists it on their site as suitable

ill try regular dex 3 then if its better ill prob put transmax z in it 

9 minutes ago, gerg said:

Just read a bit about it for my own interest (I have a T5 behind a V8) and it looks like synthetic might not be the go. Just good old Dex-lll or equivalent with the right additives ie: that Nulon stuff with Teflon in it (I call it donkey semen)

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Its actually quite difficult to find online the specific oil for the t5z (although im 99% sure that logically it would use the same oil as a normal t5)

i have a 20l drum of dex 3 at home , i should prob try that first i guess

i was going to get some syntrans z today but it would suck to waste like 100 dollars if that doesnt work

I have a ba turbo, 5 speed (t5z)

we changed the oil from ?? oem ? oil , to penrite progear , the one that penrite recommends

now i have to revmatch the thing to get it to shift especially when its hot?

the gearbox was fine before

im not sure what other gear oils work but thats twice ive used penrite in 2 different gearboxes and its dramatically fucked up the gearbox lol

what oils do other people on here use? from what i can gather castrol transmax z is the go

On 3/23/2017 at 7:27 PM, deankdx said:

Don't use a Dellow bell housing.. see BGDAVs thread if unsure why..

I am running a quicktime bellhousing, cant go wrong

On 4/10/2017 at 9:38 PM, broken-wheel said:

why coilers over just a damper upgrade like a Koni or Bilstein ? you know 4 Bilstein dampers will be cheaper and make your car handle better than the same price coilers right ? also the rear ones you can fit ourself in 30min so you only have to outlay some $ for the install of the front ones

Makes it to easy to adjust if i have coilovers

why would just shocks handle better?

7 hours ago, gerg said:

That sounds like a much more elegant solution, can mount wherever you want and no compressor seal to let go (enclosed system). Would need a serious alternator though.

150 (pretty sure would be enough) amp alternators are pretty cheap from the usa these days

i looked into one of these a fair while ago, ended up going a CVF 8rib pulley set up that has , water pump / alt / ac only. the sanden 508 compressors look good especially in black 

these would be grouse if you hid it under the bumper or guard or whereever though.. would suit a lot of hot rods that dont wana boil in summer

I am thinking of going coilovers for my new daily 

I have heard pedders make the only ones that can be passed thru a RWC due to the steel body on them?

is there any other good brands , i wouldnt mind double adjustable ones

you wont have to cut the car up , but you will have to stuff around a fair bit with wiring / tune to get it running (or pay someone and it basically becomes a plug and play ecu setup)

you can swap and match up parts to get it all to fit without cutting the car. the worst most major thing is getting the sump cut and shut

https://www.facebook.com/groups/billscustomlooms/?ref=group_cover

try that link , they make loom kits and source other parts to make it much easier

for the price id honeslty just get a standard FG motor from the wreckers , fg turbo manifold, t56 from a turbo, bolt that in , buy a loom kit for the ecu and wiring side of things

and if you wanna turbo it just run 6-8psi it will hold up fine , people are turboing the n/a motors more and more now

you wont have to cut the car up , but you will have to stuff around a fair bit with wiring / tune to get it running (or pay someone and it basically becomes a plug and play ecu setup)

you can swap and match up parts to get it all to fit without cutting the car. the worst most major thing is getting the sump cut and shut

https://www.facebook.com/groups/billscustomlooms/?ref=group_cover

try that link , they make loom kits and source other parts to make it much easier

for the price id honeslty just get a standard FG motor from the wreckers , fg turbo manifold, t56 from a turbo, bolt that in , buy a loom kit for the ecu and wiring side of things

and if you wanna turbo it just run 6-8psi it will hold up fine , people are turboing the n/a motors more and more now

honestly it would nearly be easier to just use a t56 lol . they are at least everywere if you ever want to buy one second hand

for the same effort the 6 speed is a 100x better result

How much are they generally ?

I've not had good luck with the bronze gears. They seem to wear out quickly. The steel gear on a roller cam lasts forever, that is what I'm running now.

Are you running an aftermarket cam?

I do have a few spare sumps.

I mighy have a go at making one myself