RAWDEAL

Thanks mate that helps heaps! i diddnt get the shifter/shaft from the other housing so i guess ill just drill and dowel the falcon shaft! that pic with the hole cut in the floor really puts it in perspective of how shit it would be if i tried to fit a falcon/shifterposition/t5, id have to remove the handbrake +rep coming your way EDIT: this forum doesnt really have +rep? haha Without being able to find measurements off of the internet, can i use the same length extension housing as the one currently in it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321295357164 maybe try one of these , a mustang extension housing mate. not sure of ure application though

I6 Porn right there! what power/quarter mile time did it make ?

the gear that was in the car originally was different the the tc/wagon/donor . i might try swap the gears was really odd looking and a different pitch ect

Well the length i have gone so far is this Got the tacho to work. got the other guages figured out as far as which wires go to which senders ect. but the fuel guage is doing funny things. When i connect it it goes straight up to full and keeps going , so i turn the ign off. Maybe there is supposed to only be 9v supplying it ? Same with the oil pressure, but the car used to have a light so i am assuming thats why the speedo doesnt work but thats because there is something wrong with the gearbox, ive connected the drive gear up and even spun it by hand and it moves the speedo, but when i plug it in properly it doesnt work am i doing something wrong with the guages or are they different from a tc to a td, voltage wise? 1) fuel sender is intact. hooked it up on the bench with a spare 12v battery, with the sender on 'full' it keeps going way past the full on the guage. with it 'empty' on the sender it doesnt move at all. 2) is the sender/guage supposed to be supplied with a different voltage? I dont have a varible power supply so i cant really tinker with it. 3) i assume the circuit for these guages goes +12 > guage > sender > earth?

Figured it out! needed a stepdown transformer. now i have fuel/temp/oil just gotta fix the speedo now. anyone else had any problems with the speedo gear (inside of the gearbox, not the plastic one u pull out) wearing out? gearbox is a cortina 4 speed manual, got borgwarner written on it..

i changed the td dash to use tc guages got fired thursday so pretty much cant apply for jobs after hours (apart from online) and i really want a working fuel guage. if i could be earning money i would be the guages themselfs are the same diameter and dont take much to swap between the two differnt dash's, just the wiring is a bit of a mess.. already sorted the tacho/speedo/oil pressure should be fixed tommorrow already had the other car here and i cant use the plug out of the back of the dash and the donor doesnt have a motor in it. gonna do some more investigation tommorrow though.. the td sender has 2 black, 1 green-white trace wires coming out of it and the tc one has 1 black wire and a red/white trace wire Yeah thats a given, gonna try an e series one with the guage instead of a light. i am betting it will work like a charm.

EDIT: Supplied the circuit with 4.5v via a powersupply i diddnt know we had in the house lol seems to be pretty good with the sender @ full and the guage is right on the full mark probed the wires that come from the loom plug in the dash itself the wire that comes from the rear of the car reads ~6.6v and the tank is half empty? Is there are resistor normally used with the circuit ? i have had to not use the plastic flexy print circuit board because the two are much much different from tc to td. If/when i do figure this out ill put up a howto, including how to tell if ure sender isnt working correctly

I find lpg better/easier as well lol.. pumps itself, atomises itself, just gotta keep the converter warm and the mixtures checked every so often lol if its points check the gap! if u dont have feeler guages try to open it up to the thickness of a cigarette packet (the cardboard its made from) a quick youtube/google should show u how to gap them. if u have a can of aerostart ect try that . that usually is how i find out weather its a fuel or spark problem. u can always pull a plug and get someone to crank it and watch the sparkplug to see if it is sparking. ( gotta have the thread part of the plug earthed)

12v to the starter will start it . 12v to the coil ect will keep it running. thats pretty much my interpretation of bypassing the ignition switch lol

ive seen a 425 horizontally mounted with a fabricated square to round, that was on a vq 5.0l. but the principal is the same, he got to keep the maf sensor and all that other stuff, including the airbox. which is good for dual fuel plus you save ~150$ on a baseplate usually u can find a 425 on ebay for less that 150$ , or at least i have. type l's can be had for around 50$

I would get it running on straight petrol, then add the lpg. will be fair easier and better to troubleshoot. as far as converter / mixer setups . u can keep the existing gas setup on your car , and just add a mixer and converter pretty much getting the petrol running will require an EFI fuel pump and all that . so thats why i suggest you do that first. LPG vapor injection isnt, IMO, very user friendly/simple, if ure lpg injection system in underrated , horsepower wise, it will need a system to switch it on the fly to petrol. ive driven an au duel fuel like this. not sure about other oem setups most (if not all?) of the vapor injection kits run a piggy back off ure existing ecu as well. do you have a car ure pulling all of this out of ? would make it 100x easier if you go mixer type u could use an impco 425 with a efi/hose/flange?adaptor on the end so u can actually plumb it onto the throttle body, that way u get to keep the intake manifold that the car comes with Go here http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ssn=propane-kits&_pgn=2&_skc=200&rt=nc these guys sell heaps of adaptors and stuff for lpg. i would use the 425 mixer as the standard au 6cyls have a bit of power , you dont really wanna set it all up and then realize uve put a huge restrictive gas mixer in the intake

+1 for the straight gas. will help simplify things, will also help with getting it engineered (if you wanted to) just weld up the injector holes if u wanna go a mixer / converter type setup u wont need an ecu that way so a lot less wires..

Is there any reason for that or ? i would assume its because the bolt pattern on the flywheel / clutch kits?

Looks good man! so many mods lol! Ive found out the clutch that was running on the 351, was a 157 tooth , 6 bolt 10" clutch.. i think it was 157 tooth because of the bellhousing now to find a flywheel for a 302 and a 10" clutch kit.. EDIT: 5 mins later.. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Falcon-Clutch-kit-eb-ed-ef-el-au-heavy-duty-/390025532782 seems its using an 6 cly e series clutch. the one that came off of the car was shagged . he diddnt set the slave cylinder up properly , and shimmed it so there was literally NO CLEARANCE FFS. it was a brass button with springs that i paid like 700$ for lol

If the saginaw is the teardrop one.. i got one off of an EA , 6cyl. they are the same internally .. the bracket was different , so to change that u gotta take the pulley off with a special puller, i cannot remember if the fittings were in a slightly different location or not though

all of the ltds and fairlanes (da,dc,nc ect ) ive had were lsd , the da/nc's seemed to be 3.27

Pics of intake manifold u made? ive made the 650 baseplate utealize the TPS and the ISC . but i dont need that anymore , the DC ltd used it for the auto ect . although i might see if there are aftermarket ISC computers , i absolutly hate! having any gas come out of the exhaust at idle . an isc might help, if i tune the idle mixture really lean

the flagship holley is what i will be buying eventually . u can even run 2 set of injectors for 91 and another set for when boost comes on that squirts e85/98/c16 ect lol

Going lpg, thought i mentioned that , straight gas, impco 425. the 351 and the 302 were both setup for the 425 ect 302w already has a torker2 intake on it

I am going into geelong today, soon, to get the engine mounts off of the clevo and the clutch and flywheel. for some reason i remember the guy who built the clutch kit saying that the bellhousing only takes a 10.5" clutch so he had to get a windsor clutch with the clevo balance lol :S Also going to see if the engine fits in and the aircon/front accessorys ect fit in

With the 164 / 157 teeth difference between the windsor and the cleveland. is the outside diameter of the ring gear different? :S I cannot remember weather i had a 10.5 or 11" clutch in the cleveland, do i just measure the clutch disk outside diameter? Stupid ford for not just making them ALL ZERO BALANCE

10 spline

IMO id buy a 28spline/4 pinion diff thats open center and install a LOKKA into it for ~500$. saves getting a second hand lsd that could be on its way out ect ect

Its a later model tr6060 6 speed manual the bellhousing is a quicktime one I WAS using a 351c/tr6060 with the old clevo starter i had from when the car was a c10 auto