wagoon

You can just weld some exhaust tubing to the std. waffle plate to locate the spring.  No holes needed.  Come on - you know you want to

Yes I want to, but no I won't

He is a very big boy and whilst I am not small - his size scares me so I wanted his pump to work extra well.

Bout the only bear attack you will get from me is a bear hug when my engine fires, promise I won't break your ribs..... well maybe. How bout, I will try my best not to cause any damage when I give you a bear hug when my engine fires

I know all about making something to suit multiple applications, I spent 2 hours making 1 drawing for my engine mounts and that was only for the engine plate on the passenger side.

Here's pro's blown crossflow

 

Not that Im stalking you or anything Dave

I did know you built that car Pro but you are the only one I really know of that has done supercharging with any real success. And with your current position being turbo's are simple, cheap and fairly easy (which I agree with) that was the reason behind my statement. Someone like yourself is really going to be one of a very few people that are going to be able to make the supercharger work. Also the obvious cost of a forged bottom end on top of head work and then blower kit, if you were starting from scratch would be $15k all sorted surely. I for one would love to do a blown crossflow but that is going to have to wait until I win lotto or stubble on a bag full of cash.

Thats why I said NA or turbo as both have been done quite a few times and parts are going to be fairly easy to get which means a bit cheaper. The turbo route is always going to make more horsepower in the end, and it really comes down to want you want from the car as to which way you go. A good powerful and reliable turbo setup isn't going to cost substantially more than a good NA build but it can produce substantially more power, albeit in a narrow power band with not very good street driveability. There is always trade off when going this crazy on an engine

I would follow what Pro250 said and get a C4, most of the auto's are only for very mild applications. You would probably struggle to find enough aftermarket parts readily available to build the box up to hold decent power. If this box is for your serious horsepower crossflow I would seriously consider a turbo 350 gearbox as they have a lot of aftermarket parts and are a bit cheaper than a C4 to work. At the end of the day both the C4 and the Turbo 350 have around the same torque rating when built it's just the 350's are a bit cheap. Plus if you have to find an adapter for the C4 to crossflow then you will just have to find a 350 to crossflow adapter

Supercheap normally has a stand with champion stuff on it or if you have masters hardware near you they have just about the entire champion catalogue in stock

Just don't cut the car up lol that's what my shell is for :-)

 

Sent from my D5833 using Tapatalk

I can promise you that I wont be cutting up my car, thats the only reason Im not using the coilover setup for the front that Ando put up. For the amount of bullshit Ive gone through so I dont cut a hole in the bonnet I see that there is always a way not to hack shit up, its just not the easiest way. Far from it

Im hoping that I dont have to go to the same lengths as Crazy did, but going off everything that I have done in my build it will probably end up in some full custom bullshit. Will have to wait and see

Here ya go http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/325-diy-uca-shelby-drop-journal-xd-xe-xf/#entry3971

I am quite capable of assembling the engine,in other posts i have said a friend of mine own's and runs a good machine shop and he loves playing around with stuff like this he is old school and has done a lot of i6's in his time,i have told him i want to do something crazy with this engine either turbo or supercharged or wild n/a with n20 so im just getting as much info i can ,i have done many big clevo's but this crossy thing has got my attension at the moment.

Just a warning though crossflows become addictive

 

To make serious power I see only 2 viable options NA or turbo. I would forget the supercharged idea, while they look and sound cool I just don't think it will compare to a serious turbo or NA motor. Now with the turbo motor if you want serious your going to need aftermarket inlet and exhaust manifolds. The exhaust manifold shouldn't be a problem but it ain't going to be cheap (more than a grand for a 6 boost beauty). for a good one. The inlet side is a choice between efi or carb. Carb can be done but I don't know how well you can shove boost into an aftermarket carby manifold and expect it work like NA and your going to need to get someone to setup the carb. EFI inlet is going to be either full custom or heavily modified aftermarket version, but your going to have to work with someone that knows the way the inlet flows to get even flow all the way back to #6 cylinder. Your going to need a computer to run the efi which means you need to talk to your tuner and see what they like to use, then your going to have to see if it will work with a crossy.

Then you can start on the cylinder head which is going to be the most important part of the build. As Sly pointed out you can expect to sink several grand into a working head that's ported with roller rocker and a good seat cut (seat cut is probably the one of most important part of the head work)

Then theres the bottom end. You can save yourself a bit here by getting hypereutectic piston, but I am not sure if a high boost engine will need forged bottom end. You will need to prep the block for oil flowing back to the sump, speaking of a sump it will need to be a custom setup with windage trays and scrappers if you want to rev it. Depending on the sump you might need to modify the engine crossmember.

 

These are just the basics of a serious crossflow, and yes there are people that have built serious crossflows that did not do this. But making a proven better than 330hp crossflow that doesn't break every couple of times you run it takes all the "over the top" prep. Even when you do all the prep and spend the time, if your pushing the envelope you can expect breakages just like any serious hypo engine

When I talk to people about my engine and say it's going to make around the 350 hp they think it's not much, and when you consider they are making 500hp factory supercharged V8s now 350hp doesn't sound much. But when I say that the engine ran mid 11's in a full weight street car and that a 350hp crossflow is actually like a 450hp+ V8 they start to understand that a hypo 6 is more than just the numbers it produces.

Yep, i did away with the antenna on my XD and replaced it with this bad boy.

Its hooked up to my Kenwood receiver/CD and works a bloody rippa!!

Here's a link  (sounds like the one wagoon is talking about)

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DNA-AXA110-AM-FM-BOAT-MARINE-DIPOLE-STEALTH-ANTENNA-SUIT-RADIO-AUDIO-RUSTPROOF-/171813598620?hash=item2800e3759c:g:m-8AAOSwrklVbnQw

Yep that's the one Steve

In my daily drive wagon I am using an antenna that you plug into the back of the stereo in the normal way but it just sits in the back and picks up the signal, you don't see it at all. For me it doesn't work the best but I think that has a lot to do with the stereo in my car more than the ability of the antenna. It is just one wire, no box or anything on it.

is there a hyd roller for a crossy ?

Nothing off the shelf just like everything to suit a go fast crossy as I am finding out. It's all the little things that need to be made/modified/desgined then made that is just not there for the crossy. I have designed and made engine mounts for a crossy, had to make throttle brackets as off the shelf stuff doesn't fit, had to search a lot to find an air filter that will allow enough air into the engine without hurting performance and fit between engine and shock tower. This is only a couple of things that I have made as well.

Not trying to scare you off but trying to make you aware that a truly fast crossflow is not something that can be put together with off the shelf stuff. Most shops would either struggle/take a while/ or charge shitloads for all the "custom" parts needed. I think that is what makes a fast crossflow so special, it has the blood, sweat and lots of tears of the owner put into it. But it is a very rewarding experience once your there ,or at least that what I keep telling myself so I can actually get to the end of my build without going insane (it helps to be a bit loopy before you start)

Read the combo I copied into this thread. It is the same specs as the crow (not sure of the brand of cam in the combo) but was used to great success but just don't expect it to beat the world http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/5270-what-to-build/

So I'm about to place a order for the mellings select std vol pump.....good decision ?

Going off what Ando said it should be ok, but I gather they can be improved to work better. Might be worth your while contacting Ando to see what one of his pumps are worth, then you know you will have one built to what you need. Always better to get something that suits what you need rather than a generic aftermarket item that might cover what you need

Yes Ryan. I built abit extra into your pump because you are a blacksmith with really bid hands. So I know what you will do to that poor little x flow. It's just what I do.

So are you saying this is representative of the way I work?

Fuck Ryan...just seen this and yes I have the fan still. Send me your deets and I'll get it off to you. 

How bloody nice is that, I get abused cause you forgot to do something   All good dude no stress, I'm trying a few different things so wont worry about if for now.

been a bit busy but got the holes drilled yesterday for the shelby mod so I have finished with the template.

 

 

So if anyone is interested in using the above template let me know. I haven't refitted the UCA yet as I'm going to replace the UCA bushes while they are out, which requires money I don't got.

 

Edit: Just noticed that it looks like the bottom small hole on the left looks out of line, it's not it's just the angle of the pic taken. I used digital verniers to check the distances between hole centres before drilling any of them

You will find it hard to get a solid in a smaller/mild size unless you go custom. So to get a solid your going to have to have a certain level of performance in mind anyway. Once you get to that level of performance usually application deems whether a hydraulic can be used or a solid. Solid will out perform as mentioned above, so hydraulic is really only a choice in that level of performance where you don't want to/have time to perform the maintenance required for the solid.

Take a look at both of these camshaft manufactures top 2 links are Tighe bottom 2 links Camtech. You will notice for both manufactures the smallest solid is at least half way down the list for the hydraulics when comparing size

 

Tighe solid  http://tighecams.com.au/cars.htm

Tighe hydraulic  http://tighecams.com.au/profiles2/fordcrosshyd.htm

 

Camtech solid  http://www.camtechcams.com.au/ford_6cyl_xflow_sol.html

Camtech hydraulic  http://www.camtechcams.com.au/ford_6cyl_xflow_hyd.html

Flat tappet I'd go solid, they sound like they mean business, more power and better drivability (if you are prepared to do valve lash adjustments more often and such). Roller I'd prefer hydraulic over solid in a canted valve engine (xflow, clevo, big block chev etc) if you are going to see more street miles over track miles the pushrods pushing at an angle tend to limit the service life of a solid roller lifter, the longest we had a set of solid lifters last in my old man's clevo was 30,000ks after 4 sets of lifters and 2 cams we decided to go to a hydraulic roller as the car just gets used too much to warrant the solid roller, they hydraulic roller that's in it now has done over 40,000ks trouble free and between the solid and the hydraulic it only lost 11hp and 16 ftlbs at the treads

I like that info but it has me worried.

If you are looking to give it some RPM, make sure you have enough oil pressure for 10psi per 1000 rpm.  That is if you want to rev to 7000, you will need 70psi and so on. 

So my crossy's good for 8000rpm then, time for a bigger camshaft

 

I'll be turning it to 7500.... Not sure I'll see 75 psi with a std pump and loose clearances??

My crossflow has an Ando built factory pump with decent clearances in the engine and when we primed the oil pump it was at 80psi. Ando will remember what the clearances where on my engine no doubt

QFM pads offer bite when cold unlike pads like EBC green stuff and red stuff pads but are of the same level of performance as the EBC ones.

Regarding shelby drop I have been told that the bolt joints bind and I have been told that they are fine. I have seen the ball joint thread on here regarding the new vs original type. Only thing I can say is I will be finding out soon what happens and if it does bind then I will try a fix for it. Only thing no one really mentions when they do have trouble is how low there springs are so thats why I am still going to try it.

Yep standard rebuild of standard calipers. Those T2 rotors can be had from a few places, just shop around for a good price. As for the QFM pads these guys sell them http://www.brakesdirect.com.au/Qfm

They have an ebay store as well as through their website. They also sell the T2 rotor and superpro bushes as well.