wagoon

Dont the xr utes have the same alloy wheels as the sedans? Arent the one tonne utes only fitted with steel rims? I was under the impression that its the load rating of the tyres more so than the rims themselves that dictate load rating.

Assuming you have an XD it will be leaf spring rear which require either a ute or wagon diff from and EB2 or ED(can ute EF/EL but the handbrake is really simple on the EB2/ED diffs) You will need a E series sedan tailshaft if you have a sedan though as the ute/wagon tailshaft will be longer. As for the power it really comes down to what type of cruiser your after, picking a camshaft that has the operating RPM range you want is the most crucial thing. If you want a highway cruiser don't pick a cam that requires short diff gears unless your happy for the car to rev a bit on the highway and use shit loads of fuel while on the highway. If you want a nice lumpy idle and plenty of go up top pick a cam from lower down the list of the camshaft manufactures below. If your comfortable doing a bit of maintenance then consider a solid cam as it will give you a bit more power compared to the same size hydraulic. These are just some cam manufactures, have a look at their range as they all offer something slightly different. http://www.camtechcams.com.au/# http://tighecams.com.au/ http://www.crowcams.com.au/

All blocks are just about identical apart from the key feature of the 86DA block allowing for the easy installation of an EF falcon full counter weight crank. But since your only spending $5000 don't worry about EF cranks of better blocks just run with what you have especially if it's in good condition. You would need to be spending close on $15,000 on the motor to warrant the EF crank Staying with carby will be much easier, cheaper and will net more horsepower especially with the amount of money you have to spend. Next couple of questions will be 1. Is $5000 just on the motor or everything including gearbox, diff, brakes etc 2. Is the car auto or manual? Do you need to convert the car to your desired choice of gearbox? 3. What diff ratio do you want/have 4.What is the car going to be used for. Don't focus on horsepower cause you wont be able to brag you have heaps, but what you do have is a light car compared to all the newer cars and a very torquey engine that will actually make your car fast.

Lots more details are needed to make an informed decision but I will have a guess at there will be no difference what so ever if they both need rebuilding. Information that is needed is 1. Is the XF motor carby or injected? 2. Do you want carby or injected when your done? 3. How fast do you want to go? 4. How much money do you have to spend? The main difference between the motors will be the standard compression ratio. If the XF motor is an injected motor it will most likely have slightly larger valves in the head. Apart from the valves and a couple of accessories that bolt onto the engine both engine are just about identical.

Have been chatting to a bloke that is interested in doing a crossflow conversion into his landcruiser 60 series and it got me thinking about camshaft configuration and specification. Just using Camtech cams as an example: Camtech cam with part number ending 110 : duration 264 degrees, 208@50thou, total valve lift .477, 110 LSA, RPM range 1400-5000 Camtech cam with part number ending 517: duration 274 degrees, 218@50thou, total valve lift .510, 110 LSA, RPM range 1800-5500 To make the most torque out of a crossflow while still having usable torque very low in the rpm range(off idle so to speak) would it be possible to: use the 517 cam as shown above but install it 2 or 4 degrees retarded so that it has a closer rpm range to the first cam but with increased lift benefit of the 517 OR get the 110 cam made on a smaller LSA (like 108 for example) and install correctly and use the shorter LSA to boost mid range torque(does the shorter LSA sacrifice power elsewhere??) OR just use one of the Camtech cams as supplied or even Tighe cam part number 725 : duration 268 degrees, 210@50thou, total valve lift .517, doesn't list LSA or RPM but remarks are "mid range" Purpose of the landcruiser is towing/ general mild off roading (bumpy undulating tracks/sandy tracks hence low torque requirement-NO rock crawling type stuff) and daily driver. My experience with 3F carby petrol cruiser engine is it has stupid amounts of torque from idle(take off in 2nd on all but steep uphill) but started falling over at 3800rpm and was just making noise over 4200rpm. Guys wants to retain as much torque down low as possible to help move the heavy car(is approx 2150kgs) but wants it to make usable power to 5000ish rpm max. Is it possible with a crossflow?

Yeah I know what you mean about RRS prices, and WTF is it with selling it cheaper to the states I do 100% agree with you that the shelby drop needs to be engineered as you have changed mounting locations which changes lots of things, even the aftermarket A arms brought in from the states will need to be engineered to make sure they meet the regulations of the car they are being put onto. I do wonder how many aftermarket products are actually engineered, as although I haven't looked into it for a while there was a rather large aftermarket company that was selling all manner of parts but only 2 products where actually engineered. So when people asked is their stuff ADR approved the answer was yes, just neglected mention the fine print saying that it was only on 1% of the things they sold. Basically anything that I see for sale that is not clearly labelled as ADR approved (doesn't automotive mass produced products have to comply with ADR regulation not just one off engineering rules?) I take as non compliant and no different to the stuff I make.

I'm going to have to disagree with you on this on greg, reason being is what I have achieved with my sedan. On my sedan I have coilovers in the rear which only required custom upper mounts as the coilovers mount horizontal not vertical like the shock absorbers, these custom mounts are very simple to make and wouldn't cost much to get made. Then for the front you can either run the above coilovers or a custom spring and quality shock. I think it is very reasonable to say that for $2500(will cost much less if you can or know someone that can do the fab work) you can have both front and back suspension sorted with good quality products for a good handling car on the street. A genuine street driven import will not out handle a well setup street driven falcon it's just the falcon requires fabrication, lateral thinking and modification like the shelby drop, the imports only require bolt on parts.

Thanks guys for that. I doubt the falling off quick will be an issue as the power will last longer than his current setup anyway. But that is good to know. And moving the power band down is exactly what he wants so I think we have a winner.

My carby powered landcruiser did the exact same thing where it noticably picked up after 2000 rpm, it was bog stock other than exhaust and electric dizzy even my wagon does the same thing. But the landcruiser you could feel run out of puff at 4200rpm. So when comparing the Camtech 110 to the Tighe 725 they both have very similar spec and similar "size" except for the total lift where the Tighe has even more lift than the bigger Camtech 517. So is the Tighe cam better for torque because of its smaller size (less duration) but increased lift?

Thanks lads thats close enough for me to work with.

Just wondering what diameter pulley you guys are running on your water pumps when you spin your engine to 6500rpm. I am getting a pulley made and the bloke said I can have any diameter I want within reason. I know if you go to big a pulley it can effect things like water flow at idle and charge rate of the alternator at close to idle speed Current pulley being used is a 4 bolt power steering pulley fabricated only to get the engine running. The outside diameter of the power steering pulley is 160mm.

Would you happen to know the dimensions on that pulley?This custom made pulley (made out of ally) is costing me nothing other than my time. Work for free get the pulley for free, so its cheaper and easier than having to search out an xc iron head pulley. Just need dimensions to replicate the xc pulley

Well that works out perfect cause the power steering pulley Im using is only just smaller in diameter than the standard size harmonic balancer so guess I will just stick to that size.Thanks mate

Yeah good point about the charging. Do you know the outside diameter of the pulley you have? How did you workout your underdriven percentage?

Is there much that either of you blokes don't know?

TF_DOHC is in the greater Brissy area so if you ask him nicely he might help you out as I don't know if the C4 to suit crossy suits barra engines.

The unimig should have no drama welding stainless as I have found it has plenty of extra wire speed for the amps on regular mig wire (stainless needs more wire speed for the same voltage setting compared to the normal mig) If you want to use ally wire you will need the spool gun. You will need to run a smaller diameter ally wire as ally wire requires much faster travel speed as well as a higher voltage input compared to normal mig wire(smaller diameter ally wire means you cant weld the same thickness of material as you can with welding mild steel) To weld ally you will also require different sheilding gas as well. If you have the above sorted yes the unimig will weld both stainless and ally

There you go mate all pics in one post. As for the wheels I had them one my car when I bought it. Its an XE Spak, the owner ordered them instead of the normal Spak wheels. I don't know how you would go about finding if those wheels were ordered though

I bought an XF single rail a while ago to use on my roller sedan, looked great inside and got a gear stick and clutch cable with the box. Now that the box is in the car and reassembled I can't get it to select reverse. There is no spring movement in the gear lever and it just wont move up or down when the retaining nut is wound all the way down. When I wind out the retaining nut the spring movement returns gradually until the nut is nearly all the way out, but I still can't select reverse even when the gear stick has full travel back in the spring. So I was trying to figure out what was going on and noticed that the gear stick that was originally in my car which is factory XE manual looked differently to the apparent XF gear stick. Can someone shed some light on what is what here? In this pic the known XE gear stick is one the right. To me the only thing that looks the same between the 2 sticks is length of spring travel. This is the "XF gear stick" lower section measure to the bottom of the nut This is the known XE gear stick measured to the bottom of the nut I measured the difference between the 2 U-shaped ends and the width is within 0.5mm of each other. But the length of the U-shaped section is 5mm different with the XE one measuring 11mm deep and the "XF" one measuring 16mm deep I'm guessing the "XF" gear stick is not an XF gear stick at all, but the nut which is the metal not plastic nut does screw down into the threads on the box fine. The XF stick does select gears but is quite firm to do so.

Nah it's simple dude, they don't think you can handle the full awesomeness of queensland so they only allow weaker versions for people living in lesser.....sorry southern states :lol:

Sorry brah but everywhere around where I live is a scummy area and I would have to go to schools and steal shitty beat up crap from kids to get the bearing I need, that's going a little to far in my books.....just a little . Instead I went to a local bike shop that sells parts to all the local bogans for their crappy bikes and I paid $9.95 for a complete bearing kit which came with 2 bearing cups. This now means I can repair mine and have one as a backup. Funnily enough the bike shop dude must have thought he was onto a winner as he made sure I knew he had a heap of stock of these bearing kitsa as I'm guessing he thinks I will be in over and over again to buy the bearing kit.

Thanks mate. I had wondered about a different brand of car but didnt know what other cars used single rails. Looks like I have a bit of digging to do to find out where it came from. Im guessing the shifter housing may be XF as the condition of the housing fits the condition of the box. Im starting to think the gear stick it self is the odd one out. Guess I need to find someone with a known XF setup to confirm 100%

Is there a way to find out if its cortina? And I still cant figure out why the shifter I got with the box wont work as it is longer between the bottom of the nut and where the saddle sits?

Thanks once again to Dean for the idea. I changed over the shifter housing today, was and absolute piece of piss. 3 bolts and the roll pin in the shaft, the hardest part was knocking out the roll pin when it was in the car but even that was fairly easy. So I pulled apart the shifter housing that was on the known XE gearbox, degreased it then lubed up the shaft and inside the housing with fresh grease. All seemed fine then thought I would put the 2 housing on the bench and take some pics. In the below pics the known XE housing is on the left and the unknown one is one the right. Can really notice the height different between the top of the 2 housing when they are side by side. Other than the top height difference there really isn't much difference between the 2 housings that I can see. This number is from the XE housing This number is from the unknown housing