Trev Vaa

im hanging to get my set from Dandenong, Special Piston Services, paid top dollar but they have a fantastic reputation and its whats inside 1tuf65, car on pump e85 running 8s can't be a shit bit of kit surely.

depends how wide you want the wheels. usually on simmons, i see the back half with .5" extra width ex: 16x7 inners of 3.75" outers of 3.25" on a 225/50/16 tyre that works perfect on the front end. i know that combo works first hand. you can go down to a .25" difference with ease (thats 6.35mm) with good clearance of front guards.

i've heard of issues with Ross before as well, but then i've seen engine builders who turn SBF & SBCs to 10,000rpm (nascar and SB drag motors) and they won't use anything else.... jasons SBF turns 9600rpm (pro stock) and he's got Ross inside it and it's pretty much all he will use.... go figure right?

i've heard horror stories about a lot of things. greg's on the money. quality components, set up how the manufacture recommends = no issues.

standard electronic ignition, bosch parts. pretty rare to have failures, other than modules which you can still buy new. HEI can be a bit unreliable at times (hot weather etc) though usually pretty damn good.

yep clevos idle around 40psi usually if they're good, glad to see its sorted dude!

ok, get a multimeter see if you have 12v coming from ignition switch to coil, if you have less than 12 that could be your issue next up; timing light, see where the firing is happening, make sure you can see the marks on the balancer, if you can't, sand the balancer find 0 and 10 btdc (will have marks cast in) get white out, mark with whiteout (marker), assuming your balancer hasn't slipped (probably has tbh) that will give you an accurate timing pointer on the crank. if you cant see 0 when it fires, dizzy is 180 out or the timing is crazily advanced/retarded if thats not the issue, the motor may have a stripped timing chain (common issue on clevelands) i am of course assuming you have checked to make sure you have proper earths etc and have spark at the plug block all vaccum ports for the moment just untill its fired, just hook the booster up to the back of the carby. leave the rest blocked off.

12v or 6v coil? and do you have a points or electronic ignition?

yeh 3.0:1 with the wide ratio toploader will be fine dude, still plenty of punch off the line. found the ratios online: close: 2.32 1.69 1.29 1 wide: 2.78 1.93 1.36 1 slotting a wide ratio with 3.0:1 in the ass will have a similar first gear to a close ratio with 3.5:1 in the back, it'll actually be a touch shorter yep isky has a reputation for quality thats for sure. definitely top quality.

oh as far as RPM goes, i know the old boy, if you really want to find out the details i can contact him, he is in his 70s or 80s though.

hey mate just a tip, if you want to make it easy to drive, and easy to cruise with, go 3.25s in the ass with that combo but get a WIDE ratio gearset for the toploader, will make it perfectly driveable on the street, nice and cruisy on the highway and the lower first and second gear will mean you can stomp it and not worry about it bogging down. i'd say your bang on track with the combo you listed, should be really nice to drive, any idea what the heads will flow? oh instead of isky, i use PSI springs, never had an issue with one, even after 5 years.

ROSS make pistons to suit off the shelf. if you are going to be pushing 6500-6800 you have the option of forged or hypereutectic pistons, cast will crack the ring landings at much above 5500.

that'll do it. if the threads are rusty, clean them up too

if you dont mind taking the manifold off, just break it away with a screwdriver. piece of piss. or if you dont want to take the manfold off, as already said, a hot screwdriver will melt the plast then you can just unscrew it out. BEFORE YOU PUT THE BRASS ONE IN PUT SOMETHING ON THE METAL TO STOP IT CORRODING. the amount of times i've seen brass tees snap off and been a bitch to get out....

got an email a month ago about this from comp saying they were releasing these. then again last week or a week before with the press release. the theory makes sense, and they're pegging it against their own products in dyno testing, that's ballsy. while adjusting timing aids the fuel mixture issue in single carb it doesn't stop the lean out caused by fuel vaporising on a longer intake runner..... this is a bandaid fix as said, but hell if it works as well as they claim, then why not give it a shot? nothing is going to work as well as ITB EFI but if you can improve i say i'm all for it. windsors are inherently bad for this issue, scott and i discussed it breifly at AFD this year in regards to his XW.

have used both meziere and cvr both top notch products, never had one fail personally first one i ever installed was back in 08. still on the car today. only seen one meziere fail too, was on a BBF. last a lot longer than a conventional water pump. have also used CSR, afaik no issues. btw from memory they fit, but they are to suit a windsor.

cav the FL1HP any idea what PSI the spring is inside? used to run a Z9 on mine (and all my other Eseries v8s), fitted no issues, swapped to the genuine Ford equivilent to the z89a because my best mate had 20 of them in his toolbox from work lol forgot to add, if you are going to be caining the ass out of it, the ryco HE range is a good option, better filtration qualities than the standard ryco ones. also royal purple make filters now, don't know where you would get one, but can't imagine them being anything but top quality.

second one is alloy.... aftermarket. whats the bracket hitting?

yeh been in 3 tunnel vision cars, can definitely rep them as far as quality and driveability goes, second to none. hes not cheap though he is an absolute perfectionist, got quoted 15K for a fairly serious AU motor from him drive in drive out. drive line was all extra though.

are you cleaning contacts etc? or just regreasing it? if you're having to clean the contacts just send yours in for a reco, the protective coating will have worn off and electrical corrosion will be occuring.

9000rpm clevo anyone? who remembers harrys ute at UBC2? that thing was off its tits.

just means everything will now be boosted destroked versions on paper....

i doubt its the manifold holding it back... it might be though who knows..... hard to say what is holding it back.... should be revving higher than that with that cam in it though.... who ground it btw? pretty agressive profile on the 107 center.... the power level is fairly accurate though. remember you may have also had a tough dyno. 416hp at the tyres = 520 at the flywheel roughly. not a number to be snorted at.

cost? id say thatd be it....

ah gotcha i thought they were the bigger brother of the coyote