Wes

PPI are not making tanks for a very long time. Good product, worst customer service on earth

Sorry. When you said duo valve, for some reason I thought you meant a twin line Y piece. If you mean the combination relief and service line then yes, get one of those, another service line, A plain filler line and guage.

Whilst your buying bits, get the guage converter to mate to your x series.

Look at my old thread to see how I set it up.

Get the proper tank. Don't run that duo shit

OMVL look cheap and nasty by comparison and less reliable i'd reckon.

The main difference between the two would be that the IMPCO uses a vacuum reference to the secondary diagphram on the converter while the OML uses a stepper motor for it's metering run off the crank sensor signal.

They look cheap and nasty, that's for sure but they perform much better than Impco on the E series motors. The impco is a simpler unit but you cannot compare the two. In 10 years the one I set up on my fathers one has never faulted. Gets him 450km to a small 66 litre tank. No way in hell an impco will do that. His previous impco one also never faulted but it was a cunt to start in the mornings without some love and understanding and returned 100km less economy for the same engine.

Everyone rushes to nolathane. There's the problem. I sit all my cars on lower than ultra lows, good shocks and rubber bushes and never have ride discomfort. Might be a different story when I get the 20's going but we'll see.

Wes how hard would it be to setup?

 

Just got my thermos by the way! My neighbour got them first though lol.

piss easy brother. I'll cut the wiring so that you can mate it all piss easy to your own set up. I'll even take photo's for you so you can't fuck it up.

 

Impco are good on the older motors xeeclipse. They don't work well with crank angle sensored Falcons. On the older E series and X series they go forever, shit economy though. They're just robust dinosaurish systems. The OMVL are a much better unit for the E series providing you have good ignition. With bad ignition, they're a nightmare. They are much more economical and easy to tune and require very little tuning generally.

 

Any Gas system is as good as it's maintainer but yeah, Impco is just too old and not as efficient.

 

So the retarded courier driver sent it to your neighbour Callan? lol

I have a whole gas set up from an EF, tank to mixer, ecu, lines, converter etc for next to nothing on ebay. 3-4 fills at the pump and it's paid for itself. All that impco stuff is too old for a 4 litre. Steer clear. If you're using an EF or AU ignition, definitely stay clear.

hey Wes ,being a n.s.welshman like yourself ,how do you think il go for rego if i make the xmember a bolt in

No idea bro. I'm sure it shouldn't be much of an issue. Fark. If that's the case, would make dropping engines in and out piss easy on a hoist. Give John from consulmotive a call. He's ok to talk to and eers on the safer side of engineering so if he gives it the thumbs up chances are many others will too. It's about who you know nowadays with engineering certs

Where the fuck would we be without Gaz setting shit straight hahahaha

A bolt on one is fucken ace!

Just dumb and lazy. Don't do it. Engine out in an hour max is piss easy with crossies.

Thanks ReVhEaD. Well i was getting close!

Might head out to a wreckers tommorow. I should be able to get thermos and hopefully there will be an XG ute.

Anyone got any parts i can use they would like to sell?

 Yeah got thermo's and radiators from EF. EF thermo's are the highest flowing of the lot.

Wes what did you do about the sump? I would like to run the AU 4L and its the only thing that is stopping me.

I know i can get it modified but some people seem to think that getting an aloy sump welded is tough.

 

The sump in mine was completely custom. It was a High energy unit but the only thing I would recommend on them is weld down the two side baffles on the outer extremes. If xeeclipse was being cheeky, he wasn't being thorough. The only time my engine sounded rattly was when these flaps bent up I presume from the engine sitting for a prolonged period on the sump which I believe caused the sump to flex. What then happened is they were being flicked by the conrod every time it went around. Took the sump off, welded them down and never another rattle except for the standard warming up of forgies and rings on start up and standard rocker/cam noise whenever you go larger. Have a listen to any serious 4L, OHC or Barra and this is normal. No way does this mean it is a rattly motor.

This is coming from the guy who had the rattliest 4L in the land  ....There's video proof

If used within their production limitations the crossflow without doubt would be the more reliable....period. 

pfft.

until evidence of your superior crossflow or windsor you drive regularly and as reliably, runs consistent numbers like mine and get's driven anywhere at any time you need to keep your cyber fantasies to yourself. Rattly motor lmao... shows how many serious engines you've been around.

No shitty guides or tensioner for the chain to flap against. Unless you over rev the 250 past 4,500rpm it's as reliable as a boat anchor.

pffft.... seriously what planet are you on? Is that your worst complaint about a 4L? Non stop revving my 4L to 6k with 30 psi and 30,000 km and never had an issue that you speak of. Countless other 4L motors too.

Crossies? Lmao, hold them at revs anything close to 4k for more than 30 seconds and the lifter noise is unbearable not to mention endless bent push rods, snapped rocker gear, thrown rods through blocks and sumps, blowing gaskets, stretching heads (aren't they made of paper?). Core shift, melting rings and pistons. yada yada. They're just not a pleasant or happy motor in comparison. Sure, people love them and stubbornly refuse to change but call a spade a spade, they're a piece of shit with a very low ceiling in comparison to the 4L

Lol at comparing quality three piece rims, available in whatever offset and size you want, to some stock 1980s alloys...

 

$1k a rim is a joke IMO no matter what brand they are there's so many rims on the market these days I mean who'd spend $6k for tyres and rims for say some prick to steal them or you damage them when for $2k you could have the lot and still have a mean looking car on wicked rims, I once thought of simmons for mine then I went to HO falcons and a few other places they were like above $1k+ a rim I thought stuff this so I just bought a full set of reconditioned snowflakes that are in charcoal, chrome centres with postage $87 a rim yes they are only 15x7s but I can get a 235 tyre on the arse end lowered to the max with a fake drop tank and I bet it will look just as good as any rim just my 2c but hey it's personal pref I guess

 

Jamie.... you can't be serious. As Defective pointed out, there is no comparison between a built to order wheel in 2 or three piece and a piece of alloy junk. Sure, they're not for everyone but to call them a joke is not correct. 2k may not get you the look you're after. Thank God the serious car builders don't shun their cars in 12 slotters any more.

hey guys im looking for the best way to remove stains in seats. i got some velour seats i would like to remove the stains off them

They say prevention is better than cure. Try not to masterbate in your car

Can you say revs? 40-45 psi of boost when it later made more power.

Standard gas tanks can flow a lot more with full lock offs installed. Granted you need more than one line. Minimum 3/8 inch lines and the sky is the limit with flow. The main restriction is at the carby. I won't go into details as they are reserved but here is a fully LPG system using a standard tank and you can see what it is pulling at the wheels. Near 600 rwkw. It actually made quite more after this video before switching to E85. Again, you have to know what you're doing to get this result.

 

That's over 770 hp at the wheels.

 

If you think you can make them and make them well for $200.00 being the tinkerer you are, I know you'd love making them and I say go for it. But I think your costs will shoot up past that.

 

May as well go to page 3 of this catalogue and be done with it http://www.mcdonaldbrosracing.com.au/pdf/pricesus.pdf

Don't waste your time with the supercharger. For the effort involved the return is buckleys.

Even though I despise budget turbo builds, you would still be better off with an ebay special turbo build instead.

Au bottom ends but EF- EL heads are better. They flow more out of the box in standard trim, ie they breathe better. That's if you can be stuffed with the whole conversion mating of halves.

The best cooler designs are opposing end tanks. ie has the inlet or outlet down the bottom or up top and then vice versa. The whole tank will then be utilised efficiently. With other designs, the air can find route through the quickest track.

 

As for design, it is more than just end tanks. It is also the quality of the inner core which cannot be ignored in regarding the design aspect. So a cooler with a bad end tank design might have a superior core to one that has a good end tank design but a cheap core.

 

In a perfect world you would get a quality core from reputable sources (not ebay) and also ensure the design of the tanks are laminar, smooth and opposite one another at opposite ends.