Wes

Not overly hard to weld just as explained have to pre heat the cast item before welding.Fixed a few camping cook pots in this manner that are still fine today and they get many many heat cycles.The placement on the turbine would be ideal aswell so I would buy a new 1 as above or weld the housing as explained.

Mate, where do you get off with such stupid comparisons.

 

The gate on housing will work fine, no dramas. But comparing your bush tucker pot which hits a max of 280 degrees or so to a turbine housing which can see 1000 degrees and with stupid pressures is like saying .....well.... it's just not like saying anything sensible at all.

 

Do the world a favour and stop chiming in on shit you have no clue about.

 

Your cook pot is not a turbine housing.

 

All this false information is not helpful.

 

It will work but welding a pot and welding a turbine housing is no where near the friggen same. Stick to your crossflows.

Yeh... one guy who helps me with clutch set ups is about to leave the industry. His name is Joe from total clutch and brakes. Call him and tell him Sam with the falcon turbos gave you the contact because he helped me with a brass button custom set up on my own cars.

 

Explain to him what you have and he might be able to sort something for you to suit as he has a team of engineers and ex touring car experts that work closed doors and make up custom stuff.

 

0407457990

Got one for $50.00 if interested. Just oil and filter change as you usually do with any swap over and away she goes. Oh yeah, sensible people also do a sump gasket when doing the above too.

Faster and ran longer than any engine you've built. You're out of your territory. Should be a how to blow up a crossflow thread elsewhere. That desperately needs your expertise in there. No one here more qualified.

All the exhaust goes thru the adapter as it a open chamber...not going to be too ineffective really.Not ideal but again a good idea compared to modifing that manifold.Ideally a better manifold to start with would solve all issues but its up to Matt really.

 

Oh yeah, I forgot. Why do it properly when you can do it every other way first

Sorry, missed this the first time, you mean kind of like on this housing:

 

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-HSG-043&Category_Code=HSG

 

That's a good cast unit but most do it like this

 

Being a split pulse manifold, not the best idea at all with that adapter. Again the gate is to one side. If you don't put two holes from each pulse side then it should be bang in the middle of both sides, ie half on each side for the most benefit.

You can always block off that wastegate and just run a pipe/wastegate off the turbine housing. Will control boost better then off the manifold.

Yes, theoretically being as close to the turbine as possible is the best option as Branko mentioned. Only problem is the differing materials and welding on a cast item, you have to be a real good welder to make sure you get a great seal but cracks are inevitable due to heat and expansion rates of different metals. Still, it's the best place to put it.

 

But if you're going to use that manifold which I don't recommend, you shouldn't just put it on the other side too.

 

I ran a exedy cushion button. And I had the plate modified from more clamping force. In a turbo xf xflow. It worked well.

 

Yep, that will work too. Either way, mods will need to be made as no standard hd clutch is good for turbos

Excedy HD are shit for turbos. Will wear out quick. You will need a custom made one by a guy who knows his shit. 3500 lb brass button with the pivot point moved to make engagement easy. It will still carry on a little like a brass button should, ie with shudder but it will bite and bite hard and work well. But changing the pivot point allows for easy foot pressing and releasing.

 

Anything else is junk.

Yeah those pedders ones are solid.

Ando, you gota swap bushes around use, half ED and half XF. I did this conversion a few months ago and I had to use xf bushes in the ED trailing arms to go onto the car. You will have to get the old ones pushed out so the new ones can get pushed in. Its easy peasy. Oh and you will have to get a hose conector for the brake line.

You can get that from pirtek?

 

Steve was it a standard diff or xr diff? Can't remember for the life of me

Get a whole ED or EL even do a whole retro swap. Best thing you can do for under 500 bucks.

upper same

lower different if xr6

not sure if different on standard sedans

Best swap you will make in your car along with getting rid of the big piece of shit they call a crossflow

Not good

 

It's a split pulse manifold there should be  pipe from each bank coming out and y piecing into the gate for the most effective gating

.

Fark that. I'm gonna araldite an old Lenovo onto my dashboard.... really go for the rustic look lool

You can fit the squirt up into the glovebox up high with the port pointing out or a serial extention wired up and routed around. Cables are tougher lol. When cunts open your box you can say "tuned motherfuckers".

 

With a bluetooth, pfft, cunts will think you're looking up porn lol

If you heard a tick near the dizzy and it's idling rough, I'd bet my balls it's a loose lead or a split boot/frayed lead arcing out. The tick makes me think it is loose, sitting on top of the socket arcing a connection. Happened to me a few times.

 

Check the cap also isn't cracked. basically go over everything ignition.

Ok. So you have two coverters, two lines, two lock offs at the tank and two lock offs at the converters all with 3/8 line? If so. 600 hp support at the wheels is easy

Hang on a second.

Why are you running two lock offs in the engine bay?

One line is fine for that power but you better have a tuner that knows what they're doing and have it tuned to Lambda otherwise you're going to find out that 1 line is going to be your worse nightmare.

 

Problem with people is they think they can do it themselves with Gas. I've spent the last 6 months doing nothing but repairing faults on my old car. I sold it running like a dream after I drove it for 2 years without one hiccup in tune because I had it tuned by the best in Oz. This guy I sold the car to is a tinkerer, not unlike most on here who literally thinks he 'get's it' and has done nothing but bugger the car up from day one. 3-4 thousands dollars later, the car is still not right because he just refuses to learn and acknowledge he doesn't get it. Gas is not like fuel, it's not like running a NA motor with a carb, throw a little fuel at it and she'll be right won't work, especially with turbos and Gas.

 

Like I have said from day one to anyone that asks, take it to a pro and there is only one pro worth his weight in salt in the Lpg industry. That's Jason Ghiller and not a person who has ACTUALLY used him has had a regret.

I get ya, still better off with a manual one with the right spring tension in the gate

Digital sucks. It allows you to believe you can flick between a high and low boost setting and keep your car normal. It rarely ever works out that way as most people don't have two separate ecu tunes they can flick between at the same time. It's a dicky concept of people fucking around with their cars. Tune your car to the highest boost setting you will ever use, tune it well and then drive it normally, off boost as much as you want and then mash the pedal when you need with confidence it is tuned for it.

 

Don't waste your time with them.

Too much internet jargon. Fit them on the main collector, it will be fine. Perpendicular to the pipe. No hassles  Don't fit them before all pipes have merged into the large collector.

Hey Wes, were you able to get the lid shut on the tank like this, I couldn't, just kept hitting the top hose and not allowing it to close all the way..?

 

Yeah bro. not a problem at all.