xd4.1efisc

I have done this as my XD is actually an XF shell, my old XD shell was to rusty, so I used all the XD gear on an XF shell.

I wired the fan by using the XF resistor box.

When the A/C is switched on it will also turn the fan on at its slowest speed, this hapens on XD, XE or XF.

I have wired mine so that when the A/C is switched on I get what is the slowest speed in an XF.

My stock XD-E fan switch is now set up so that on what would be XD-E slowest speed is equivilent to XF 2nd speed, XD-E 2nd speed is equal to XF 3rd speed, XD-E 3rd Is equal to XF 4th speed.

I have a wiring diagram that I drew somewhere I will find it and post it up.

To get the temperature control to work I used a XF Ghia/ ZL blend door motor, I then gutted a ZL dash pod for the temp control slider (linear pot), I did a cut and shut on the XD-E temp control to fit the ZL slider, then fitted the wiring needed (striped from ZL harness) between the slider and the blend door motor to get it working, there is also a heater tap solenoid that is part of this set up.

My vacuum hoses are closer the XF Ghia/ZL than anything else but more custom, as I set up the XD-E drivers side footwell vent switch (the A/C switch is in the passenger side vent switch on A/C cars) to control the footwell vents on both sides (like an XF does if the A/C and vent control switch is pointing down).

In your case you should be able to connect it like an XD-E, you may need to tee the XD-E white vac hose at the footwell/recirc vent into both sides of the vacuum motor to get fresh/recirc working properly.

If your XE dash had A/C the wiring should be there, look behind the glove box for a Red/Yellow (off memory) wire, this wire conects to the thermostat, from the thermostat a black wire goes to the high/ low pressure switch then to the compressor.

This is hard to explain over the internet, so I hope this helps you in some way.

If I had photos I would post them but back when I did this I didnt have a digital camera, so I didnt bother taking photos, I did write some of this down so I will try and find it and post it.

You have a XF/ZL heatrbox and an XE dash, but what is the actual car it is going in? This will determine what heaterbox you need.

Good info mate as per usual! Off topic is you car on the road yet?

 

Chris,

Its on the road but no boost, took the m90 off, and not far from putting the m112 in its place, might be done in the next few weeks, just came inside after doing a bit on it.

I cut the engine bay off my XF van that was rear ended, and have set the m112 up in there so I can still drive the yellow one.

The resistor wire is only on XDs that had points ignition (Cast iron 6cyl).

Alloy Heads and V8s had electronic igition and no resistor wire.

The doors are the same for manual or electric.

Front door regs bolt in the same electric or manual.

Rear door electric regs bolt in different to manual regs but the holes are in the door for either.

BBS XE, on 07 May 2013 - 9:31 PM, said:

Have you checked for vacuum at the hose? Should be able to feel it with your finger when the switch is on.

 

Nah, lol, didn't even think of that.

 

The light green vacuum hose should not have vacuum on it when the heater is on.

It will have vacuum when the heater is off, this will close the heater tap to stop hot water getting to the heater core.

On an XF Ghia, ZL or FE, the vacuum is controled by a solenoid valve that switches the vacuum to the heater tap (light green) vacuum hose.

The solenoid is near the relays to the left of the steering column, it should click when the temperatere control lever is coming to the full blue section, not the blended red/blue, the control lever also operates the blend door and thermostat via an electric motor.

On a GL,S or Fairmont it is not the same the vacuum is controled by the temperature control directly, and the blend door and thermostat are control via a cable from the temp control.

The solenoid near the relays to the left of the steering column might be stuffed.

I am reusing some of it like bypass valve, intercooler, HTD pulleys, shortened shaft, and some pipework, the rest I will be keeping.

That is my current setup, I am in the process of changing it to a M112, made some more brackets over the weekend, just need to finish the outlet and bypass bits and it will be up and running.