xd4.1efisc

I have pictures but after the photobucket crap a few years ago I have not bothered to open any other accounts with Imgur or tapatalk or the like.

I don't intend to open any either.

Yes I used XF Condenser, TX Valve,  and Receiver dryer. I modified an E series compressor  hose to connect to the condenser, I left the line from the receiver dryer to TXV.

There are that many different ways you can do the hoses, it just depends on what you have available, you need to tinker around with things like we did before the internet.

I could come up with that many options for the hoses, TXV, Evaporator, just depends on what you can get hold of.

XF TXVs are no longer available according to cool drive, I was trying to get one last month.

Early E series will fit XF evaporator, the E series TXV has a charge port and a switch on it, where the XF dont, but it will still work.

Later E series TXVs are still available, but to use them you need the Evaporator to match

XF receiver dryers are also getting hard to get, although one of the AC places I get bits from told me 100 were due into their Melbourne warehouse at end of April, so there should be some around for now.

The vacuum hoses:

GREEN to Heater tap.

BLACK to manifold Vacuum

ORANGE (RED) to Vacuum switch on water pipe.

The AU probably doesn't have the Vacuum switch, it was no longer used after EB1.

The switch was only used on ALL XFs and LOW Spec EA-EB1.

The function of the switch was done by the climate control module on EA-ED HIGH Spec.

The EB2-ED LOW spec and ALL EF-EL used the EEC to control the recirc function.

The ORANGE hose is actually to turn the AC/Heater onto Recirc if the engine gets over 106 degreesC or there abouts.

You probably don't really need it.

The vacuum switch has 3 ports:

TOP PORT vents to atmosphere and has a filter on it. NO HOSE connected to it

CENTRE PORT connects to ORANGE hose.

LOWER PORT connects to manifold vacuum.

The Vacuum switch on the 4.1 is the same as the E series one.

E series stuff does not line up to AU balancer pulley, hence why my brother was using spacers to make AU brackets with E compressor line up to E balancer pulley.

You also can't just swap harmonic balancers the AU have the tone wheel for the ignition on the back of them.

Pretty much E series needs to stay all E series. AU needs to stay AU.

E series will definatly fit.

I don't know about AU  as I haven't done it.

I will see if I can dig out some photos of the E series stuff in my wagon.

E series power steering pump is C2, AU is some saginaw type and I think there is a conversion kit to fit them to E series.

I am talking about EB-EL V8 Sanden AC compressor, using EB-EL brackets.

They kind of bolt up to an AU bracket but only 2 or 3 bolts line up and the pulleys dont line up off memory.

I think the 6 and V8 AUs use the same compressors,  different to the E series Sandens.

The XF with the AU bracket I was talking about above is my brothers and he used spacers and stuff to make the pulleys line up, he has since changed it to an E series bracket.

My wagon used EB-EL V8 compressor and bracket.

Did you use the correct wiring diagram when you changed the pins back.

There is Pre Adr 37 (leaded) and Post Adr 37 (unleaded).

The pin locations for the VAF and some other stuff is different.

It sounds like a fuel damper, VK/VL Commodores had them.

5 hours ago, LJDB said:

Any idea on the camshaft in the stuffed motor. From my understanding for a turbo u want as little overlap at possible as while both valves are open backpressure in the exhaust before the turbo can be higher then the boost pressure and push the charge back into the intake. On a blower there is little to no restrictions in the exhaust so more exhaust duration and overlap helps the blower push everything out.

In saying that my new slapper xflow turbo motor has a diffdrent cam with more exhaust duration and lift and it seems pretty happy. Im only running half the boost atm but feels good. This motor is pretty flogged too.

It is a Crow 14771.

2 hours ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

hey while on the subject what cam would be the go with one of these kit's ,ive read somewhere a smaller style cam is needed with a blower as off line power and tourqe is laid down ? or a turbo grind ,any idea's guys or lobe centre i think i read 114 lobe or something or bigger exhaust side ?

Back when mine was still M90 I blew a couple of pistons similar to what another guy did on here recently with his turbo xflow.

The motor that blew had 28cc Precision Hyperectic pistons, crow cam, roller rockers, main and head studs, hardened push rods, ported E1 head, decked block, shot peened rods and whatever else I have forgotten about, it now sits in the corner of my shed waiting for me to do something with it.

It blew just before Powercruise 2012, so I put a 100% stock low Km EFI E2 head motor in and bolted the M90 supercharger and bits to it, and bugger me it went better than the one that blew, that is why the stuffed one is still sitting in the corner.

I have since changed to the M112 and the stock motor is still going fine, it had me worried on New Years Day when it did not want to run, it turns out 2 MSD leads were stuffed, it was fine the day before.

A few years back I contacted Camtech about a custom cam for when I rebuild the stuffed motor, and I seem to recall the cam had a 114 lobe centre.

5 hours ago, matt_lamb_160 said:

Google M90 on a XFLOW xfalcon

On my supercharged 1FZ-FE the blower is mounted on the exhaust side. Allows you to intercool (if you go EFI) and use the standard inlet manifold. Heaps of pictures on the net of similar setups.

The M90 on a XFLOW thread is mine, and I have since changed the M90 to a M112 from a Jaguar V8.

The basic set up is the same as the M90, except for the pulleys I changed them a bit, from HTD to 8 rib serpentine style.

I also went from the Bronco throttle body to a single 80mm.

It now has 14 to 15 psi, and goes a lot better than the M90 did.

It will work, the part of the handle that pushes the pivot down is in different spots between the different doors.

I have been through it before. I do have an XD,XF and XH and I double checked them before I posted yesterday.

The cut out in the doors is the problem, they changed it on XG-H.

that wont work as a xg/h is a push to unlock where a xd/e/f is a pull to unlock

 

Take a look how the handle acheives the push or the pull, the same handle will either push or pull depending on the location of the hole for the rod.

The handles are also different from drivers to passenger sides.

If you change the pivot on an XD-F for an XG-H, drill the hole in the pivot needed for XG-H or buy the genuine ones as above then the handles need to be used on the opposite side to what the were originally used.

IE:

The XD-F drivers with changed or drilled pivot will need to go on the passenger side on XG-H, and a XD-F passenger will become a XG-H drivers.

The cut out in the door skin is different to accomodate it.

XD 6 cylinder's with A/C had the 7 blade "flexblade fan" while non A/C models used the 4 blade fan. The only XD models to be fitted with the clutch fan were V8 models. My XF ute is a 1992 model and it had the plastic fan instead of the steel, Ford must've run out of the steel ones and made the plastic ones as standed fitment.

 

Now that I think about it I had an early cast iron XD Ghia with factory A/C and it had the 7 blade flex fan, but I also had a febuary 82 alloy head XD GL with what looked like factory A/C (York compressor, 2 belt water pump, A/C, and ALT pulleys) and it had a steel clutch fan, it could have been original (looked original) or it could have been changed at some point.

I looked in my Factory XD manual and it does not show clutch fans on 6 cylinders only on V8s, like you said.

Maybe the GL above had XE stuff on it been a very late XD.

My last van was a 89 XF and it had a steel fan when I bought it, I ended up changed it to a plastic one.

By 92 Ford were probably fitting what they had around, as the XG was close to been released.

The only difference would be on XD where factory A/C had the clutch fan and non A/C had a fixed fan.

Non A/C water pump (NO CLUTCH FAN) had no fan thread and a different pulley bolt pattern compared to the A/C water pump (CLUTCH FAN).

All XE and XF had Clutch fans factory, all XEs and Non A/C XFs had a steel one and A/C XFs had a Plastic one, they all used the same clutch and water pump.

Some water pumps come with different impellers but this just depends on the brand of pump.

xbcool is on the money, its on the passenger side at rear of block where the top of the bellhousing meets the block.

In that picture at the top if you go towards the rear of where the 72DA number is you should find it.

Xflows: XC-XE had it at the drivers side engine mount, XF (and possible some late XEs) drivers side near water pump.

Bridge the 2 Green/Red wires in the trip computer plug.

Splice into the fuel pump relay circuit.

Fuel pump only runs when cranking, engine running, or for a few seconds when ignition is turned on.

That is how it is set up, says in the owners manual it is for security purposes, but it is a bit stupid if you ask me.

He did say EL XR8.

If it is like my EL Fairmont it has a time delay where it will only work from the button with the ignition on or for for 10 mins after turning the ignition off. This was standard.

I just used the "E" series V8 heater hoses and heater tap.

If you are running aircon I use the "E" series compressor to TX valve and compressor to condenser hoses.

I modify the hose where it connects to condenser by cutting the "E" series fitting off and silver soldering a short bit of an XF condenser fitting to it.

The other line from the receiver dryer to the TX valve needs to be modified at the TX valve end so that the clamp will hold it down.

You can do it a couple of ways, either silver solder a bit of "E" series to the XF or take it to Enzed or Pirtek and have the XF end changed to an "E" series end.

Also the A/C compressor needs a few lugs trimmed off the back, and where the mounting bolt goes in near the hose inlet/outlet connections needs to be shortened about 15mm to clear the shock tower.

This will give you about 5mm clearance,  depending on how much tolerance Ford built into the car, the 2 ZL Fairlanes and the XF I have done have been O.K. with the XF been very close although it used an AU power steering/AC bracket and the Fairlanes used EB/NC.

When I do my wagon I am going to die grind the slots in the engine mounts and chassis as much as I can to move the engine forward as much as I can.

On the XF I also mounted a EF/EL 6 power steering pump under the alternator where the idler pulley goes, this gives you a bit more room on the passenger side for Air boxes or pods.

You will need to move the battery box forward as far as you can to clear the filler neck of the pump if put it like this.

I made my own hoses for the power steering high pressure and return, by cutting and shutting XF hoses.

When we did the Fairlanes we used the standard C2 pump but made our own hoses with what we had, I think they were XF hoses cut and shut with "E" series pump connections for the high pressure.

XD/XE C2 pump high pressure hose may work but may not clear the aircon compressor, off memory this is why I cut and shut the "E" series one to the the XF one.

For the return we used XD return lines, but you can use the XF ones if you like, you will probably need to lengthen the flexible hose from the hardline to the pump.

Radiator hoses just go with XD-E V8 bottom hose and XA V8 top hose and keep the standard XF 2row radiator or get a 3core.

This is a lot simpler than the header tank bullshit the "E" series use.

I have done this a few times before and will be doing it again very soon.

I am actually doing the same thing as you, using XF Fairmont wagon but a NF 5.0  and a C4.

Previous conversions were to ZL Fairlanes and XF Ghia using NC 5.0 and BTR 4speeds, you need to do some modifying to the gearbox cross member.

The BTR is wider, the rear servo hits the XF body mount on the passenger side and this needs trimming.

The BTR mounts are also further back, and you need to do something about this, I modified a standard one by welding  50mm x 50mm x 6mm angle to the ends of the cross member to extend it towards the back. It sort of becomes a U shape.

The park brake cable may need to be played with, but off memory it was only where it was sliding against the gearbox, and was not really an issue.

They are vacuum solenoids for controling the EGR valve. They have nothing to do with cruise control.

No, because the order of the valves is different.

Crossflow valves go I(ntake)E(xhaust),IE,IE,IE,IE,IE.

Pre-Cross valves go EI,IE,IE,EI,EI,IE.

The cam does fit as far as i am aware, but obviously wont work.

The wire (green/white)from the switch should be there near the headlight relays, and the switch plug should be near the fuse box as well.

They are not the same.

XD sedan senders are longer then XE/XF senders.

XD-XF Wagon are the same length but are different as far as pickups and breathers are concerned.

XD-XF Ute, Van are the same length but are also different as far as pickups and breathers are concerned.

I copied this from the fuel tank thread:

These are the measurments for the senders:

XD Sedan = 270mm

XE-XF Sedan Carby = 195mm

XE-XF Sedan EFI = 200mm

XD-XF Wagon = 140mm

XD-XF Ute/Van = 210mm

XE-XF Sedan Carb has the same mounting as XD-XF Ute/Van/Wagon and XD Sedan.

XE-XF EFI senders have a different mounting setup where they use 5 studs coming out of the Fuel pump unit, the sender bolts to the fuel pmp unit with these studs.

 

17B353 Ford part number that just means it is a speedo sender.

The 84, 78, 86, 87, 92, 94 or any other number is the year the part was first intended to be realeased. This was used by Ford Australia up until around AU then they started using 1R, 1W, or some thing similar. The yanks used a similar system to us.

The D is for Falcon or Fairlane, the vehicle for what the part was originaly used in.

A = Ford Australia.

AA = Revisiion number for that part, could be AA, A1A, AB or anything similar.

I copied this from the other site it is talking about ECUs but it should give you the idea.

The numbers after 84DA are the part number for whatever the part is.

Below is the number for a Unleaded EFI Manual ECU.
E.G. 86DA 12A650 B1A
86= 1986 First year this version of the part was introduced.
D = Falcon or derivitive (fairlane LTD etc)
A = Australia
12A650 = ECU
B1A = revision number.

Unleaded EFI Autos have the revision number A1A (off memory), with the whole number been 86DA 12A650 A1A.
This is basicly what the numbers mean.