agentkiwi

So when you get noisy lifters, is that usually sticky shit stopping them from working properly?

 

On another matter, if under hard acceleration, up a hill for example, you hear like a quiet clattering sound, but disappears once the load is off or revs are up, what could that be potentially?

Yes it does. Cheers.

Update.

 

I started tackling this today.

Radiator sprung a small leak so I took that out & got it braised.

I thought while I'm at it & the car's off the road I'll change the top.

I also failed a warrant for a worn pitman arm ball joint so perfect time to do it.

 

Everything went well except getting the pitman off the steering coupling. Ran out of time today so tomorrow once I get that apart the box will slide straight out.

Wish I had a hoist, would be so much easier than a crawler!!

 

Machinist at work looked at the top & bearing & said the bronze bush isn't worn but agreed it's a good idea to change to bearing, he said it will be a piece of cake so that's good!

Replacing Pitman, Idler, tie rods & upper ball joints. Could be a long day!!

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131193161970?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Hi guys.

Can someone basically explain to me the concept of hydraulic lifters & is there a benefit over standard?

 

Is there a straight forward application for the 250 crossflow such as those above?

Yeah I'm thinking window seals seem to be the common denominator. Silicon might help a bit but gravity defeats silicon where water is concerned.

Pulling the glass & either replacing or conditioning the seals isn't a huge job, especially if you have a Glazier mate.

They were out when it was resprayed?

Good chance they haven't gone back in properly with enough sealant or they're just knackered?

How difficult is it to remove the dash completely? I might have to do this

Put it this way, it isn't that hard to take out, just screws, nuts & disconnections.

Getting it back in exactly right first time can be a lot trickier!!

When the old ones are off you can rekit & clean them up easy then. Keep em as spares or recoup most of the outlay for the new ones.

There's always a bright side!

Fair enough mate. You know what you can handle eh.

Being brakes too it's not something you wanna fuck it up & end up In a full body cast when she won't pull up!

 

To be honest when I did mine there was a couple of times when I wished I hadn't. Can cross that 1 off now.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Falcon-Rear-Calipers-XE-XF-Free-postage-/141276582586?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20e4bd92ba&_uhb=1

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Falcon-XE-XF-Front-calipers-/141291901620?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20e5a752b4&_uhb=1

Would these work? Bit pricey but? You sure a seal kit & clean up wont sort your original ones?

My XE is the same after rain but on passenger side. Shits me to no end... Makes the carpet smell like crap.

Does yours have a sunroof?

The obvious drains on passenger side are plenum & sunroof if fitted.

Leaking front windscreen or door seals?

I think they are made up to 30mm. 21mm is standard I think. 27mm is ideal in my opinion

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm?itemId=291153578422

 

I also bought these boots for the ball joints & tie rods as the rubber tends to crack & split

 

If you are happy with King Springs then KFFL0 for the front are low but not ultra low. KFRL27 rear. You'll need short shocks for the rear with any lowered springs.

 

Your list is pretty much the list I just got too but I got a new wasp idler arm with 1 urethane bush & 1 rubber bush.

 

I wouldn't bother with drilled rotors either. Slotted are ok but really chew through pads.

 

What size sway bar is on yours now?

I'll have 1 too! Oh wait, it's 7:30am.....who cares!

 

Glad it worked. Must have been interference that made the high beam light not work, same as the oil light.

So you're saying pull the oil light globe out and the value sender will work and display correct oil pressure value on the ghia dash?

correct

Na just pull the bulb out of where the oil light is & put the sender back in.

They won't work both together as 1 is a switch the other reads a value.

I had same issue with FE cluster to XF

Now that is a great looking engine bay!

My XC still runs original lower ball joints and tie roads with 190,000 km on them now and they are nice and tight, the upper ball joints have been replaced. The original stuff is great and i'm going to source a good set of second hand original tie rods for my GXL much better than that Chinese shit they are selling. It surprises me the amount of people who waste money by replacing ball joints and tie rods just because the rubber boot is stuffed when the actual part is still good.

Good point.

These look good if your original parts are still serviceable

 

Anyone used them?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/291145162958?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

For anyone wanting to convert the bulbs to LED's the easiest solution for the indicators instead of load resistors is a new flasher relay unit. It's the top right relay on the opposite side of the steering column from the fuse box

The part you need is this

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/171247843207?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

it's a ELB type relay. Careful you don't buy the similar BLE one as it won't work

In the boot are the wing nuts that hold the headrest in place. Its easier to take the headrest out & fit the speaker then re-mount & plug it in. Not all speakers will fit hence I went with the Sony. No drilling, cutting or f**king with original parts.

I put 4" 3 ways in the doors too. You have to mount the speaker under the spacer otherwise the tweeter hits the mesh on the front.

I put Sony 16cm 3 ways in mine. Kept the originals of course.

First piece of the puzzle

Faith in humanity restored. The guy who sold it to me fully refunded my money even postage. That wasn't fair so I'll go him halves.

Sounds like you've got a lot of work to do to fix this old girl up. How much did you pay for it?

Haha so I should do this before a liquid lunch?

Next noise you should check is that one coming out of that round pipe at the back. That noise means your engine is gonna shit itself one day. Be careful