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Everything posted by agentkiwi
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Another thought I've had is; after I bought the car I noticed the sump is dented. Its a long flat dent from about half way along the pan all the way to the back. It's pushed the pan up about 15-20mm in the deepest part near the rear of the sump down to 5mm in the middle. Basically like if you drove up a big concrete kerb and bottomed out on it. This could be affecting the oil pump & or pickup? I have a sump gasket set so I guess I'll have to take the pan off, press it straight & check/clean the pickup. I'm not that keen to take the engine out to do it so I'll try the raising the engine 50mm as the manual explains & get it out that way. Think I'll have to find a pit or hoist before I attempt that though
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I don't think it's anything terminal. The engine has 130k on it. I bought it at 106k. Ive changed the oil & filter every 5k since, always use Valvoline engine armour 15w40. I used to have a noisy lifter so I put 500mls of product in the oil & the lifter hasn't made a noise since. I changed the oil about 2k later & it was blacker than it normally is which I expected. Then I added some moreys oil stabiliser to the next change. I've also been using moreys upper cylinder lube/cleaner in the fuel for a while. just lately I've noticed the oil pressure guage drops from just over half way to about a third under acceleration until it's warm then it goes back to the correct position after that. The other noise is a bit like pinging, maybe it is, maybe the timing chain is a bit worn. I'm not worried about it as it only does it under foot to the floor conditions & I don't do that often. More just curious what it could be. is it worth having a mechanic give it a tune & or recurve the distributor? Thanks for the info so far guys
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So when you get noisy lifters, is that usually sticky shit stopping them from working properly? On another matter, if under hard acceleration, up a hill for example, you hear like a quiet clattering sound, but disappears once the load is off or revs are up, what could that be potentially?
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Yes it does. Cheers.
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Update. I started tackling this today. Radiator sprung a small leak so I took that out & got it braised. I thought while I'm at it & the car's off the road I'll change the top. I also failed a warrant for a worn pitman arm ball joint so perfect time to do it. Everything went well except getting the pitman off the steering coupling. Ran out of time today so tomorrow once I get that apart the box will slide straight out. Wish I had a hoist, would be so much easier than a crawler!! Machinist at work looked at the top & bearing & said the bronze bush isn't worn but agreed it's a good idea to change to bearing, he said it will be a piece of cake so that's good! Replacing Pitman, Idler, tie rods & upper ball joints. Could be a long day!!
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Yeah I'm thinking window seals seem to be the common denominator. Silicon might help a bit but gravity defeats silicon where water is concerned. Pulling the glass & either replacing or conditioning the seals isn't a huge job, especially if you have a Glazier mate. They were out when it was resprayed? Good chance they haven't gone back in properly with enough sealant or they're just knackered?
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Floor wet after wash, Dripping near brake pedal and handbrake bracket
agentkiwi replied to XHXR6's topic in Interior and Car Audio
Put it this way, it isn't that hard to take out, just screws, nuts & disconnections.Getting it back in exactly right first time can be a lot trickier!! -
1995 XG Falcon Ute Brake Rebuild /Upgrade.
agentkiwi replied to Outback Jack's topic in Steering, Suspension and Brakes
When the old ones are off you can rekit & clean them up easy then. Keep em as spares or recoup most of the outlay for the new ones. There's always a bright side!- 10 replies
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1995 XG Falcon Ute Brake Rebuild /Upgrade.
agentkiwi replied to Outback Jack's topic in Steering, Suspension and Brakes
Fair enough mate. You know what you can handle eh. Being brakes too it's not something you wanna fuck it up & end up In a full body cast when she won't pull up! To be honest when I did mine there was a couple of times when I wished I hadn't. Can cross that 1 off now.- 10 replies
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1995 XG Falcon Ute Brake Rebuild /Upgrade.
agentkiwi replied to Outback Jack's topic in Steering, Suspension and Brakes
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Falcon-Rear-Calipers-XE-XF-Free-postage-/141276582586?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20e4bd92ba&_uhb=1 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Falcon-XE-XF-Front-calipers-/141291901620?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20e5a752b4&_uhb=1 Would these work? Bit pricey but? You sure a seal kit & clean up wont sort your original ones?- 10 replies
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Floor wet after wash, Dripping near brake pedal and handbrake bracket
agentkiwi replied to XHXR6's topic in Interior and Car Audio
Does yours have a sunroof? The obvious drains on passenger side are plenum & sunroof if fitted. Leaking front windscreen or door seals? -
whole rebuild kits brakes steering suspension
agentkiwi replied to jamie247's topic in Steering, Suspension and Brakes
I think they are made up to 30mm. 21mm is standard I think. 27mm is ideal in my opinion -
whole rebuild kits brakes steering suspension
agentkiwi replied to jamie247's topic in Steering, Suspension and Brakes
http://m.ebay.com.au/itm?itemId=291153578422 I also bought these boots for the ball joints & tie rods as the rubber tends to crack & split If you are happy with King Springs then KFFL0 for the front are low but not ultra low. KFRL27 rear. You'll need short shocks for the rear with any lowered springs. Your list is pretty much the list I just got too but I got a new wasp idler arm with 1 urethane bush & 1 rubber bush. I wouldn't bother with drilled rotors either. Slotted are ok but really chew through pads. What size sway bar is on yours now? -
I'll have 1 too! Oh wait, it's 7:30am.....who cares! Glad it worked. Must have been interference that made the high beam light not work, same as the oil light.
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I have a voltage problem I think. For a long time the volts gauge has been a bit possessed. On start up it sits on 2-3 bars until I rev it a bit then it shoots up to normal 2 bars over half way. It flicks wildly back under half with the brakes applied & tick tocks with the indicators. No real issue so I just lived with it. Until now. Couple of weeks back I changed the rollers in the elec windows. Long story short I ran the battery flat. No problem. I charged it up over 6 or so hours until it showed only 2 amps going in & the multi meter reading 12.6V. Since then the battery doesn't seem to be holding chargeOR the alt OR regulator aren't charging it. It reads 12.6 with the car off. 11.9 with it running at idle. I'll have to check it again with 2k revs to see if it gets up to 13-14. If I shut the engine down without reving it it wont start again. Not enough juice. I can jump it with another battery though. Am I on the right track that it's just a stuffed battery? Or could it be the alt or voltage regulator? I've searched & read a lot of common problems. Bad +ve wires from battery to alt, earths etc. How can I systemstically troubleshoot this myself? Cheers guys.
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correct
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Na just pull the bulb out of where the oil light is & put the sender back in. They won't work both together as 1 is a switch the other reads a value. I had same issue with FE cluster to XF
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Now that is a great looking engine bay!
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Just a reminder to check wheel arch area
agentkiwi replied to binary-fuel's topic in Steering, Suspension and Brakes
Good point. These look good if your original parts are still serviceable Anyone used them? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/291145162958?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 -
For anyone wanting to convert the bulbs to LED's the easiest solution for the indicators instead of load resistors is a new flasher relay unit. It's the top right relay on the opposite side of the steering column from the fuse box The part you need is this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/171247843207?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 it's a ELB type relay. Careful you don't buy the similar BLE one as it won't work
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In the boot are the wing nuts that hold the headrest in place. Its easier to take the headrest out & fit the speaker then re-mount & plug it in. Not all speakers will fit hence I went with the Sony. No drilling, cutting or f**king with original parts. I put 4" 3 ways in the doors too. You have to mount the speaker under the spacer otherwise the tweeter hits the mesh on the front.
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I put Sony 16cm 3 ways in mine. Kept the originals of course.
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First piece of the puzzle
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Took the old one out tonight to give it a birthday clean & dropped the sob on the concrete floor. Broke the face, split all the way up & too many pieces to glue back together gracefully. So..... I'm now in need of a beige/tan glovebox for my 84FD. Don't need the badge necessarily but will be easier if it's included. Think the tan colour of the later model xf's etc is different? Can anyone help? I know freight to NZ might be a killer but I have a cuz in Penrith who could hold onto it until he comes vack if it's real expensive. Please!!?
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I f***d up & now I need a new glovebox
agentkiwi replied to agentkiwi's topic in Interior and Car Audio
Faith in humanity restored. The guy who sold it to me fully refunded my money even postage. That wasn't fair so I'll go him halves.