Thom

Never tried one but I do know you can turn smartlock off with a j3 chip, also does you interior light work?

Ea trans computer, map,sensor, tps and Speedo sensor are required to run a btr stand alone

Didn't get a chance to do it this morning, but while I was on the way to work I thought of something, have you checked the outer run on the balancer hasn't slipped? The trigger wheel is mounted on the outer ring and it's not too uncommon for them to turn and still run

I'll do it in the morning on my Au fairlaine of I have enough time before work

Not really you just have to measure them

What about using an Ef balancer, and cam position sensor (goes in the dizzy hole, you would have to turn the gear upside down to fit x-flow) to run sequential instead of wasted spark?

From what I can gather seems to be mostly series 2& 3 au's with a live axle have the spindle for the Watts link lower down

When you set your rear suspension up you want the pinion to start to point down as the diff travels towards the body, this counteracts the natural tendency of the pinion to try and "climb" the crownwheel and plants the rear tires to the pavement (hopes this makes sense as I'm very drunk right now)

Hey q, personally I would go fixed,lower control arm (boxed would be better than standard) with an adjustable top arm ( I realise harder to make) the top arm would greater effect pinion angle and your roll centre due to the higher load they take over the lower arm, btw what diff cover are you running? Some au's have the Watts link mount 10mm lower down which also lowers you centre of gravity/ roll centre an make a cast improvement in the twistys & drive out of a corner/ launch

The plastic saddle under the shifter might not be in properly/ worn out

One thing you have to remember a 351 with a 2500 stall all put more twist on the springs than a 4.0, but of your springs are worn I wouldn't flip them

Cuzzo weighs 1600kg

Hey Nath, remember how boaty and arse about the Cuzzo used to sit? It had flipped leaves eventually broke the main leaf on the drivers side, but in saying that your not dealing with leaves that are 50+ years old

You can remove them as one quite easy

Pretty much guaranteed to be 4 pin 28 spline of it has the flat flange on the yoke

Fairmont Ghia, ltd's and xr6 all came standard with an LSD (6 cylinders that is, most v8's were open diffs

Where does the mixer feed line come out of the converter? Of it's past half way up it could be a wax buildup

From eb series 2 on falcon budgets should be 28 spline 4pin, but I have seen one or two that contradict that (both were 3.27 ratio)

Shhhhh I have a little project im working on<br />

You can but it still won't.work the Au has a different length valve stem and a different base circle on the cam

I've always wondered about the front main myself

All efi 5.0's we had here were a roller block,your best off buying a shitty old fairlaine with a 5.0 to use as a donor, Au is the best to start with (better intake and heads as well as coil packs and a very tidy wiring loom compared to e series, more power too) you could probably find a smashed/ damaged NC/nf/nl/Au for somewhere between $800-$1500

That applys for 5.0l,302,289. 351 Windsor is a taller deck but you can buy manifolds to suit and use the rest off the 5.0l or you can buy wedge spacers to bolt the 5.0 intake to the taller 351 block

Efi gear will bolt onto an early Windsor, blocks are dimensionally the same except for the lifter bores (they a slightly higher up in a roller Windsor block and using a flat tappet cam in a roller block can cause issues and vise versa (unless your using an aftermarket cam and lifters for the Non roller block)) but why do you want to, large benefits to running a roller cam over a flat tappet

One thin I realised I should of put at the very start, whenever doing any mechanical work to a 4.0l always set the engine on tdc no1 you hat never know how far you have to pull them apart sometimes and putting valvetrain/camshafts back together cans be a real pain if not set at tdc no1