Thom

I'm not sure but it's possible

The axles do the brakes don't, the axle flange is turned 90 degrees on ef and later diffs

I wish I could but I'm afraid I don't know the answer, the closest I could give you is a lead on a user of ford forums that used to be called whiteau5.0ghia, but I have no idea if he's still active or if he has the same username

Larger welch plug may mean it was from a colder part of the usa, block heaters are a common thing in some parts of the states and they are usually 1 5/8 from what I've seen

This is something I've seen before, some heads the holes for the screw in studs is exposed to the intake ports, so it is possible if there is no thread sealer on the rocker studs that the engine could be sucking oil in around them, as far as setting valve lash goes there are some good videos about it, but it is something if you are not sure of its worthwhile having some else do it or show you how

Pre crossflow use the same cam bearings as xflow, its an extra hole for the pre xflow to oil the rockers as they have an extra oil gallery to supply oil to the head and rocker shaft, that gallery gets supplied from the top of the cam journals, whereas xflow use the lifters and pushrods to supply the rockers with oil, its no real biggie just interchangeable bearings

All au's other than some ts50's were supposed to have gt40p's, e series diff will go straight in with using xf bushes on the car end and e series bushes on the diff end of the controll arms and you will need a metric brake flare nut to connect the brake line to the e series diff (most xr8 only had a 3.23 open diff, 3.45 lsd wasn't standard until el xr8 all xr6 and 6 cyl fairmont ghias had 3.45 lsd standard) a steel e series tailshaft is a better choice than a xf one but an alloy e series tailshaft is not, you want to find an eb to el t5 as the au and later t5's have a longer extension housing and the shifter is further back, be prepared to pay upwards of 1500- 2k for a 5.0 t5 set-up unless you get extremely lucky, make sure the headers you have will clear a left hand starter

Not always true but a general guide for e series diff ratios (you could order any ratio in any car when they were new but very few had different gears) this is generally from eb to el, early ea's still ran xf style diffs and ratios until the 4 speed autos were available 3.08: standard e series ratio gli sedans and futura mostly had this ratio 3.23: common ratio for fairmont, wagon, xg and xh utes base model fairlane V8 falcons (including xr8 up until el) 3.45: (almost all 3.45 diffs were lsd) xr6, el xr8, 6 cyl fairlane ghia, 6 cylinder fairmont ghia, manual 1 tonne xg and xh utes, outback utes (outback's had the hydratrack diff)

And the answer is, it was a 6 cylinder t5, the bellhousing was machined down the thickness of the adapter plate

I'll have to look up what was done to this one, dad had it done when I was in high school, I may be remembering it wrong

You can use a 6 cylinder t5 on a single rail or top loader bellhousing using an adapter, the 6 cylinder t5 has a longer input shaft than a v8 top loader or single rail, all e series t5's are about the same strength, hp doesn't really kill t5's torque does a mild 302 in front of one in a light car like an xp should have a pretty decent service life, the only reason to chase up a factory V8 t5 set-up would be for the left hand starter but then that restricts off the shelf header/exhaust manifold fitments on the passenger side and limits you to a cable style clutch

Good news, if you set it up for a t5 its not very hard to go tko from there in the future

Could be a couple of simple things, you may have knocked the plug or ignition lead off the coil, pretty easy to do when messing with the starter

Thats a good point, the stray radiator i have for start-ups has a electric fan on it

This is a quick video before bricks or radiator were added

Agreed I've fired up engines in way sketchier situations last one I did i fired up my xflow balanced on bricks, radiator hoses are usually stiff enough to hold a radiator in place, I have cable tied a radiator to a chair once to stop it moving

If you want to look into some weirdness look up the Argentinean phase2 y blocks after the usa stopped making y blocks in 66 they were produced in Argentina until the 80s at one point they re designed the heads/cam/intake so they were similar to a Windsor head but still used a y block short engine

I think its more a then vs now, one of the model a engines i have here is .130" over, flathead v8's have .125" pistons commonly available and If you I have a good block you can go as far as .190", y blocks have heaps too a 272 (3.62") can be bored to 292 (3.75")and 292's can be bored 3.90", I think as they were trying to make engines lighter thats when the started removing material from the bores and other ares of the engines

It would be pretty easy to Machine separately from the rocker cover surface, but would probably be quicker to file it flat if you know what you are doing with a file

I may be barking up the wrong tree here, but I do remember e series being sensitive to engine temp vs tune, ( if i remember correctly this was covered a couple of years ago in outback jacks ute thread) you may have to change thermostat to get your engine temps up to 96° (i think that's what e series are supposed to run at from memory) if its not running up to temp properly as far as the ecu is concerned it may only be adjusting the cold start table and throwing it off

For using phone and tablet to browse the forum the Tapatalk app is pretty user friendly

If you dont mind going without an overdrive a c10 with a Cleveland torque converter will bolt up to the roller 5.0 and flexplate

The engine itself is pretty easy to convert to carb, most 8.2 deck carb intakes will bolt straight to the engine so basically pick your manifold and carb of choice, edelbrock dual plane air gaps work really well for a nice driver, almost all carb manifolds will lose a little low down torque as its not really practical to create carb manifolds with intake runners as long as the efi intakes, but most will see an improvement in hp and make the engine a little more rev happy, there are a couple of options for distributors you can use the stock efi dizzy and use an msd/ice ignition/crane fireball box that has timing control to run the distributor, or you could just drop in an aftermarket dizzy (electronic or points your choice) and go. The hardest part is the transmission if it is the original unit from the eb the trans is a btr 4 speed which is essentially and Australianonly market trans so not much is availableforthen in the aftermarket (Australian delivered vehicles never had aod/aode), these trans are difficult to set-up as a stand alone unit, they still require a tps signal, speedo signal and a trans control unit to run, a couple of places like shiftkits Australia do make stand alone trans computers but from what I'm aware they only do manually shifted units, as far as comp ratios and such go you will have to work out which pistons your engine has, most Aussie 5.0's had flat tops with valve reliefs cut into the pistons but some engines had dished pistons

The nascar block in dads model a has the later dizzy size, and my one does too

Xy still had 302 windsors at the beginning it the 302 Cleveland wasn't ready for production until later on