Thom

All e series from ea series 2 have 28 spline 4 pinion btr diffs, the diffs are pretty easy to fit to xe/xf if you do some mixing and matching of e and x series diff bushes, alternatively Nathan's precision machining in Ballarat makes up bushes for the swap, he's a member from this forum (don't think he's active on here any more but his business cand be found on Facebook) and has an xf with a turbo sohc 4.0 that runs 9's using an e series diff, he's successfully done a few drag and drives with the car so he'd be the person to talk to

Only thing electric in the tank is the fuel gauge sensor, rest of the fuel system is purely mechanical on a carby xflow (unless the car was put on LPG at one point in its life then there will be a lock off solenoid in the fuel line somewhere), there is a mesh screen on the end of the fuel sender in the tank that could have rotted off or collapsed and keeps blocking the fuel sender, your best bet would be to pull the fuel sender out and inspect it

You can adjust them by checking continuity with a multimeter while moving it, they don't have a lot of movement but they have enough to be adjusted back to working at times

If there is a blockage (and you've checked the rubber hose isn't cracked suckin air like Dean said) in the line or pickup you can usually clear it by blowing compressed air backwards through the fuel line to clear it, unfortunately that will dump whatever is in the lines in the tank, its probably a good idea to pull the sender out of the tank and clean it and clean the fuel line while the sender is off

If that's the case then I would go looking for a faulty wheel speed sensor or vehicle speed sensor, could even (but very unlikely) be something dicky with the abs module, with each of these items they will be producing a signal but at the wrong value cause the ecu to think the car is experiencing wheel spin

3 speed manual were usually 3.5:1

No exhaust flows through that tube it fits to the outside of the exhaust manifold, its just a heat riser to aid with warming up in cold climates, the on in that pic wouldn't work because the vacuum canister on top of the air cleaner that controls the flap to direct the warm air into the engine isn't hooked up

That is correct, the dip sticks are different depending on intake, I think from memory (a 14 year old one at this point) a log dip stick can be used with a bbm but not the other way around, if being very careful you may be able to bend the bbm dip stick to fit the log manifold but some butchery may have to happen to the mounting bracket

Unfortunately for you you'll have to source 221 specific flex plate, 221 (and 188) have the smaller pcd for the crank bolts like an earlier six cylinder but the step down to the crank flange is deeper like a later 6 cylinder, if you are lucky (or are having a converter made) you might be able to use the b/w flex plate with the c4 converter

Smartshield started in late 1999, although ford forums will tell you it was 2000, I have a 99 au with Smartshield that is currently immobilised thanks to one of my mates that was "looking after it for me"(3 failed starts can trigger immobilisation on a Smartshield car) some lock smiths or mobile auto elecs can do a whats a callet a pats (the name of the security system) reset, you will need two keys, if you want to have a go at it yourself and obd2 scanner and a program called forscan can let you do it, there is a forscan forum that walks you through the process, I haven't tried it because I wasn't going to get a second key cut for a $200 parts car

My dad has one in his model a, the aerial is mounted on the dash in an inconspicuous spot, only time It doesn't have a signal is in big tunnels or underground car parks, his one is a speed hut unit

The head will physically bolt on, but it will be a little anaemic, the 144/170/xp-xt 200 have smaller valve sizes, smaller combustion chamber (will raise compression) and a smaller carb flange, you could put one on to get by but you will need an earlier carb to suit the head, you can come into issues with pushrods though as most of the earlier engine have a solid cam not a hydraulic, you'd have to use you 250 rocker gear and maybe have to get aftermarket pushrods to suit, you will need the earlier rocker cover too, as far as I know 221 head is interchangeable with a xy-xb 200 & 250

From memory the speedo transducer between xd and xe are different, you would need the correct oe to suit your gauges

With the bf bellhousing you will lose your column shift linkage mount, to keep the xg column shift setup you will need an au column shift bellhousing

Pretty sure the fg sump won't fit the xg, fg's have a rear sump, earlier engines have a front sump, I wouldn't be surprised if the fg sump hits your drag link, an au/ba/bf will hit the sway bar in an xg, but there are 3 solutions to this, make spacers for the sway bar to move it out of the way, aftermarket sway bar that clears the alloy sump (I think whiteline make one) or you could modify the front of the sump to clear

Btr autos were still available in fg, so putting behind a barra isn't a problem, it gets tricky because the barra btr's are slightly different to e series and au btr's, all barra btr's use a cable shifter and the floor shift variants only have shift positions p,r,n,d mechanically and 3,2,1 are selected electronically via the "tiptronic" shifter, factory column shift btr's do still have park to 1st mechanically selectable but unless its from a ba ute it won't have a speed sensor in the gearbox (ba utes were the only ones from ba to fgx that didn't come standard with abs so they had a speedo transducer in the gearbox, abs equipped cars used the wheel speed sensors instead, the speed sensor is needed to drive your speedo and tell the ecu how fast you are going so it can control shifting in the trans) Your original btr will bolt up to a barra with a barra to btr bellhousing swapped onto it, you would have to convert your shift linkage fo cable though, if you wanted to use your original shifter linkage you would need an au column shift bellhousing, the one thing I am uncertain on is if the earlier btr will talk to the barra ecu As far as the engines go, ba/bf barras are simpler to bolt in than an fg engine, series 2 ba or bf being slightly better than ba series 1 as series 1 only controls the cams as a pair whereas the later engrave fully independent cam control, fg engines are a little more powerful but you have to swap the sump and oil pick up to a ba/bf unit and drill the block for the dip stick to go in the correct location

I'm sure your correct on ea 2 being a stand alone loom, it would make sense as during ea/eb they made some pretty big changes so having the loom being separated makes sense, one thing with ea-eb looms is they had a separate trans controller and trans loom like the 5.0l did up until au, and while my memory is a bit foggy on some of this stuff (its probably been 15 years since i played around with any ea/eb's) I'm pretty sure that when smartlock was introduced the tcu was integrated into the ecu, if you use an ecu that is smartlock equipped it doesn't matter if you've used a smartlock loom or not the ecu has to have smartlock turned off for it to work

Wanting to eliminate excess wiring leads me to think of only a couple of ways and both could be more time consuming than pulling the dash out, you could un pick the engine and trans harness from the xg loom and discard the rest, this would let you setup the wiring to the engine as a stand alone and only tie into the existing loom at the ignition switch and alternator, this setup would require a j3 chip (or moates quaterhorse etc) to disable smartlock (you probably will need that anyway unless you put the whole loom from the xg including body control modules and steering column), you could do this with any e series loom, an el one would probably be ideal as they are the neatest factory loom and already have provisions for themo fans and a broad band manifold controller Another route you could try is getting a barra loom and ecu mofied to run your sohc 4.0 as a stand alone unit, bill hooten and a few others on Facebook do these but they are all backed up for months so I can only guess how long you would have to wait, if you were game you could modify the loom yourself but the ecu would need to be re flashed to suit, and you would still have to get hold of a barra engine/trans loom and ecu

Pre xflow (xy-xb) or iron head xflow is what you need you need to make sure its similar size to the original one from the car unless you've changed diff gears, ford used different diameter water pump pulleys on cars that had 3.0-2.77 from cars that had 3.23-3.5 to change the water pump speed depending engine rpm at highway speed, taller ratios spin the water pump slower (because the engine rpm is much lower with tall diffs) so the water pump doesn't cavitate due to spinning too fast

Standard 5.0l diff ratio throughout all e series was 3.23, btr and t5 have the same od ratio (.68) v8 falcons, fairmont, fairlane and xr8 rarely had an lsd unless it was optioned that way series 2 el xr8 is the exception as the standard dif was 3.45 lsd, other 5.0l cars that came with 3.45 lsd standard were eb gt, ed sprint and el gt, e series didn't run a very large range of ratios (eb to el, most of ea also had 2.77 as they had bw 40 instead of btr 4 speed) 3.08 being the tallest and 3.45 being the lowest in the middle was mostly 3.23 but I have seen some 3.27, based on a standard height tyre 205 65 15 (this is just from memory so may be a little off) 3.08@ 100kph= 1700rpm 3.23/3.27@100kph= 2000rpm 3.45@ 100kph= 2200rpm 9 times our of 10 swapping to 3.45 in any e series (6 cyl or v8) would usually yield better fuel economy than the other ratios

Good ones are starting to pull into the $500 ish range if they are proved to be a good runner, especially if its motor and box, early falcons are really popular right now, at least the pre crossflows can be made to sound pretty good with a dual exhaust (if you do go that route then you'd be able to keep most of the same exhaust with the windsor) its all because of the shared centre exhaust port combined with a set of split headers makes them sound good, you can pick up power by putting a divider in that port but then they sound exactly like a crossflow, here's a couple of videos of pre xflow's with dual exhaust

The last one I did i basically just neatened up the castings in the exhaust ports and concentrated on the bowl area/cleaning up reshaping the guides, I think I only spent about 1/2 an hour on each port, woke it up though, I wish I still has pics of the 170 head I ported for my old xp, these pics are from the 250 head I milled the carb flange off and made a 2 barrel holley adapter

A couple of more pics i found on the net

Offenhouser still makes this It bolts to the original carb location and you drill 2 more holes then clamp the ends down

I know someone who can do those sort of things, but I'm probably a bit far away