KRUPTOR

just above the starter motor below the left head ,right at the back, there is two small flat areas this is where it is

Can this be seen from the top or from underneath?

Hey guys,where would i find the engine number on a 91 eb V8 302 windsor?

If your worried about the heads.Checkout the boys in the US they run some quick turboed mustangs still running the E7 heads.Honestly if your trying to pay off a loan,leave the motor and just cruise around in it and the loan will get paid off quicker then the forged motor will be here sooner.

Just leave it and save up for the forged motor.Use this engine as the mock up one and test mule.The E7 heads handle boost ok.Chuck a decent size turbo on it and exhaust and will easilly make 250rwkw.

I got a complete BF motor sent to me on a crate and the docket on the crate mentioned it was 100kg....mmmmmm

Does the engine light come on or flash when this is happening???If so it's possible the pedal position sensor is at fault.

Sorry mate its been done to death.Do a search bud.

cut and weld it,brace it too.

Engine in the back of the panny.??

No bro,will be in the front.

Hey guys,i mounted the motor there because i wasnt going to mod the sump and other aspects.I used a 7L sump as a dummy on my dummy motor and trans.I made it so i could work on the motor in the car.You look at Mark's escorts and they are a cunt to work on in car.I can change all my sprakplugs and do compression checks in car.I also made clearance for heat as being a small engine bay and no vents in the bonnet it would cook.But this thing did not get hot at all.It would handle 160-180kmph down the main straights at Winton raceway.It was alittle hairy when you see the corner coming up and you needed to brake hahahahaa.

I also had abit of help from a good friend PRO250 David.He use to work with Mark years ago and was involved in a few conversions.

My escort steered and handled not bad.I halso had a tailshaft that was short so i wouldnt loose much power to the wheels.I'm a big bloke and i fit in there no worries.

It was a rushed job,like i said if i could get another turn i would do it well.I've still got parts for another build,i wouldnt mind a escort van or 2 dr.

I done mine on the ground (on jack stands),flared the sump and tapped a thread sealed my fitting in there and done.

I done mine in car with bugger all room.

Actually guys i sold the scort almost 2 years ago.A bloke in Ringwood Vic has it now.I havent seen it or heard anything about it.

The ZL is identical to ZJ and ZK (bar hanging panels and lights) why would I need chassis rails designed to cope when there the same as a zj an k? and its alread disc brake rear 225mm rotors which is one requirement, v8 springs are cheap enough change the sway bar to a v8 and it'd the same as a zj/k?? Im confused?

The ZL isnt identical,ZJ is leaf sprung rear end.

I also heard that on xf's they need welding in the engine bay for strengthening....I'm not 100 percent sure on this would need to clarify with an engineer.

As mentioned before i would drop in an efi windsor and an auto,best of both worlds,V8 sound and great economy.

Will need engineering as no xf vehicle came out with a v8.Your best tip would be to talk to an engineer in your local area.

A couple of mates of mine,runs 2V closed chamber heads on there 351's.One is in a XT falcon 351 compression is around 11.1 mild port job,i think standard valves heads milled etc makes roughly 400+hp at flywheel.Other is in an XC sedan 351 makes 475hp at the flywheel,but the 2V's on this have had abit of work with 4V valves rollers,port job etc.

But when going bigger you need better.

I did this conversion to my xe which was a efi 4.1,i had trouble with the wiring being badly corroded.I fitted a xf intake and weber carb,and fitted a solid state low pressure fuel pump.Didnt change dizzy as its an early xe.

Not much of a sleeper with that turbo intake for a drivers side headlight!

Nah hahahahaaa,when i bought it a many years ago it didnt have a RH headlight,no upper tailgate,no rear shocks.So im on the hunt for a headlight.I'm going to make a upper tailgate out of rhs and plywood.

Hey guys,i've been slowly pieceing back together the HJ this is how it looks.I'm happy with the look so will just tidy up some of the panels and it will be dropped a couple of inches and sitting on a set of VY SS wheels painted Black.How it is weathered took 6 yrs of sitting in my back yard out in the elements.^ yrs ago i started to bare metal strip and removed all front panels,then let it sit as i had other projects.Was running and driveable back then lol.

I wouldnt bother with it,can buy a cheap good running 302 with a auto and will drop straight in with v8 engine plates and can use the orignal tailshaft and diff.

just need to run either a twin or single exhaust (single exhaust to keep costs down single 2/ 1/4).External tranny cooler and go a bigger radiator as you will need one even if you were to hot up the old 4.1.

No it wont,an external bosch 070 will run it and will run a turbo one.But if you are chasing power in the future the 2x 044 would be the go and a 2.5-5L sureg would be the go.

Thanks for the info.I have already sent it.Sold it for $220.I'm not too worries I got what I needed from it.I honestly don't know if it has everything there in the kit,so goodluck to the fellow who bought it.I swapped it for some gear like I mentioned,so im not too worried but for future reference i'll keep that info in mind lol.

Thanks for the reply guys,ill post up some pics of the van and I will show you the weathering on it.

I still want to have paint there but just weathered aswell.If you guys know what I mean.

Hey guys.Im after the oxidise/rust look.

I have a HJ panel van sitting in my backyard which has been sitting there for 6yrs now.I am rolling it into my shed in the next couple of weeks.I want to repair the main rust holes by cutting out the old sections and welding in new metal.But I would like to keep the rough rat look,i will only fix the major bits of rust and leave and treat the rest,im going to redo the interior back to its era but the outside will look ratty.As for the running gear nothing too special it has a 3spd manual 253 and Salisbury diff.

My idea here is to just bomb up the 253,nothing over the top just 4bbl intake 600dp,high comp,big cam and big stall and just run a trimatic and run a vn diff under the rear with 4.11's.The suspension will be going airbag and maybe some 17's -19's.

Just going to be a cool oldy cruiser.

So if anyone has gotten the look im after without leaving the car out in the weather for many years,let us know.Post up pics too.

parts to suit a 250,new cam/lifters,vrs kit,head bolts,oil/filter,ignition leads coil etc.Looking for atleast offers over $200.