LJDB

Could the east west be substituted for a carb spacer. I got bugger all room too under the bonnet.

I still have to sort out the tune as I fitted an aussiespeed inlet at the same time as the cam swap. il wait till its tuned better but the old cam pulled the 3.45 better. The 510 seems to have a smooth broad power where the old cam cam on strong a pulled harder but not as broad

I dialed it in using TDC it went in dot to dot.

4 speed, tfi with module in a te cortina

I previously had them in it and didn't mind them for around town. I think it will love it. The new cam pulls hardest up top so the the 3.7 will bring it down abit but 1st will be short. I need to sort the miss/ rev limiter problem first

I checked the oil pressure today at work. At idle 25psi hot, 2k 45psi 3k 50psi and alittle over that was max oil pressure. Still not entirely sold on this cam. The power has definately moved up the rpm and pulls more revs. I still need to put the 3.7s back in the car as instructed by camtech. The cam before had more midrange/ torquer feel. I did feel a couple of times at wot what felt and sounded like the rev limiter(msd streetfire) at around 5k then cleans up. Need to look into it maybe the dizzy is on its way out

Il drop the oil and filter and check the oil pressure at work. The engine doesn't sound noise so maybe it's just the gauge. It is alittle slow to react on initial start up

Not sure if it's a coincidence or bad luck but it looks like engines coming back out. Went to take it for a drive this morning as I planned on doing the Xmas duties in it and notice the oil pressure had dropped a fair bit from when I had bedded in the cam. Checked the switch seems ok. Removed the rocker cover and dizzy and primed the engine a with a drill. Took awhile for oil to come out of Rockers and Afair bit of air bubble especially at no6 inlet. Continued priming to purge any air and no6 inlet continues to blow bubble with the occational bubble out of other rockers and a loud bubbly sound coming from the dizzy hole.

What is good oil pressure for a xflow. My cortina has a basic gauge in the dash with a bar for 0 to 7 with no oil pressure light.

I wasn't planing on using one but found one lying around. I did use sealer on it. What is the issue do they blow out or something.

Yes but I didn't have one for the pick up to pump so I used sealer.

Got the cam yesterday, done everything today. Didn't start straight away but pushrods where all turning. glad I followed your tip sly with the markings on the pushrod. Abit of relief when she fired and they all span. Pulled the engine out to fix some other bits. Took the hv oil pump out and fitted a std jp pump I had. Massive difference in the amount of oil in the head when running.

Thanks for the tips guys hopefully it arrives before Xmas. Sly do u mean start it then shut if off do some quick checks then start again and run for 20min. Or pull the rocker cover off while running and quickly check the pushrods are turning then refit.

Can I used standard 250 valve springs to break in a camtech 510 or is there a better alternative.

I have another one with 8cc Pistons an that's over 11. I played with the cc in the head on the comp calculator on summit website. 1cc can make a fair difference each way

I'm currently putting one together 22cc prisons standard deck ect with 46cc head = 9.5

That's what I meant, a mild cam like above wouldn't be worth the extra effort of setting up a solid

Most solids have big lift and duration so there would be not point using one unless the combo was big. Say u had a solid with .500 lift and 270 adv duration, hydraulic would be the way to go or the solid would still we worth the extra effort.

if u had a solid and hyd cam with simlar lift, duration ect would they have similar characteristics on the road or would one perform better. Not strictly xflow but probably the best section to ask

I cut the angle that did go over the diff and re welding it upside down as a dump slightly angled towards the rear quarter almost like a side pipe/dump. the hotdog I have is quiet heavy so not sure if I should add it as theres only one hanger in that area. I took the rear section off as it was 2 1/4 over the diff and at the bends it looked tiny and restrictive, Cortina has a weird exhaust route along drivers side up over and along the diff then out the passenger rear . It also sounded like shit at the rear

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I recently took the rear section off my TE Cortina and dumped the system at the diff. Its hi tech extractors into 2.5 with 1 cheap looking muffler. Its not overly loud but has a drone. Im thinking of adding a hotdog or changing the muffler. What people thoughts on a muffler and hotdog before the diff or any good mufflers that wont be to loud and still flow well on there own. 

What happened to this?

Got it sorted found the power wire at the dizzy to have backed out. Fixed the connector and yes the module is still on there, il get around to changing it one day.

I've got a street fire msd and coil and I know about removing the module off the tfi but I had wired mine with it ages ago and i never seen a need to change it. The cars at my parents so I can't check it out but I'm pretty sure it's got no spark. I'm gonna remove the dizzy, check the msd and remove the module and see how I goes. The msd and street fire aren't that old so hopefully there ok

Sorry to jump in but will the tfi module just shit itself or give some sort notice before letting go. I broke down tonight and suspect the module as iv got no spark. I gave the car a flogging onto the freeway and it started to miss and cut out up top. Pulled over and it cleared up gave it another flogging and it happened again. Pulled over and turned it off this time, then it would start and stall until no start. First it looked like the secondary float got stuck but I fixed that and still no good.