LJDB

Up for sale?

Spark plugs showed good colour, no audible pinging and a bump up in fuel pressure for good measure gave me confidence it was ok. I don't have a problem admitting fault. I had planned to use a well used 250 as a guinea pig but went with this one instead. I've done everything to this car from front to back and there have been lots of ups and downs. If it was easy we probably wouldnt bother or I'd put a Barra in. Aleast it was only a set of plugs and didn't go completely boom

This log is from early on when i first got the data logger working. As i said i was in the process of fattening it up when coming on boost. Id say the damage was already done. The base tune was already in the chip and apart from maybe twice there was no audible pinging. I suppose me being impatient and not waiting till i could log a/f to give it a thrashing wouldnt have helped the process. 

U can see why i was trying to fatten it up when coming on boost. I had taken a heap of timing out of it aswell. This was done by road tuning not on a dyno.

Data logger looked good although I was fattening it up when coming on boost. I'm using a xf efi inlet and have heard they have distribution issues so maybe that was  the cause. Clean side of piston is the inlet sideim a little disappointed as all the other piston I have look like this and I'm not sure how they will go.

Looks to have got hot on the exhaust side. Pinged a couple times when I first got it going. Ring gaps where enlarged.

Verdict is in. Cracked Pistons between top and bottom compression rings. 28cc mahle Pistons in the bin. It was fun while it lasted. Just had a clutch turn up for it from xelisty. I've got another bottom end here but the Pistons have the large cut out in the oil ring groove. Better than nothing I suppose.

Ok guys my old trusty xflow turbo started to develop lot of blowby and started to miss under light load. Check comp cylinder 2 and 5 are low. Check leak down and it was coming from the crankcase. Pulled the head off and no major signs of a head gasket failure. Engine hasn't been together all that long so gasket still look newish. Block still in car and the Pistons and bores show no signs of wear. Is there another test I can do before a full pull down to check the Pistons and rings. I've blown a head gasket in my previous high comp na setup and the sypmtoms are the same.

i ran a vf marloo the other day in my basic turbo xflow corty and left him for dead both times. At the next set of lights he ask's whats in it? i reply just a turbo 6 and he looked at me stupidly waiting for me to say barra. Then said yeah but what. I said just an XF motor. Ha Ha the look on his face was priceless

Any pics of the d Chamber?

Hi guys, im in need of a quality clutch to suit a turbo xflow in a cortina. i currently have a clutch industries HD clutch and it isnt up to the task since going turbo. Cortina is a street car thats get driven on the weekends. what have people used over the years? cheers

Iv seen some without a bolt and the last time I tried taking a powerbond street balancer off it was a pain in the ass even with a puller.

The part number on the pistons generally tell you if it’s oversize. Nothing wrong with over sizing as long as it’s not overboard

Hey guys went to change my gear set back to the original 2.92 and can't get any load on the pinion bearings. The car is a 1977 te cortina with a 0578 housing. In this housing Iv had 2.92, 3.23, 3.45 and 3.7 in it at some stage or another through different engine combinations. The original gear set is the 2.92 the same set I'm trying to refit and doesn't have a collapsible spacer like the later diffs, it has a shim. I removed the bearings from it along time ago and suspect there should be a another shim under the main pinion bearing. Can anyone confirm this. All the other gears I have changed used have been from e series cars and use a collapsible spacer.

Ford changed the exhaust valve size on the later xflows. Did the port change aswell.

how much hp would your typical stock alloy head flow?

Yeah Iv played with the boost tee and worked out a way around the 10 psi but will probably stay under 10 or around 10 due to the basically stock bottom end. It's pretty easy I just put a one way emission purge valve on the line to the map sensor. I put it all together with bits and pieces I had laying around and parts of my n/a engine. I've upgraded the injectors, using a quality fpr, msd street fire and a bosch 044 pump.

Iv just built one that sounds very similar to what ur going to do. I used standard crank and rod (arp rod bolts) with Mahle 28cc pistons, .020 over and zero decked. Standard unmarked efi head with valve springs, rollers and an old na cam I had laying around(222@.050 .510 lift 108lsa).

i got a gt3582 of a territory turbo super cheap and made up myself a split pulse log manifold and internal wastegate dump pipe

i found some info on fitting a e-series ecu and efi setup into a xflow and went down that path. Using a j3 chip in a EL ecu with generic tune ATM And i can't complain one bit. Fires up first go when dead cold, goes super good and runs smooth. I plan to tune it myself with a data logger just haven't got around to it as the generic tune is pretty good and fat ATM.

havent had it on a dyno or know a power figure but power curve seems similar to xelistys yellow xe. Running 7psi it will pull to 5 but starts to fall flat around 4500. I dropped the diff gears from 3.7 to 3.23 and might even try 2.92. Mines in a corty and will light the rear tyres easy but can cruise around off boost all day long.

Just to keep this going. What's the limits of stock bolts and main killer or reason to upgrade?

Xflows r bullet proof and plenty of good second hand parts around. I just built a turbo xflow out of good used aftermarket bits and pieces I had laying around. Goes super good and was dirt cheap to put together. 

Don't forget the actual function of the fan. You will lose more than HP if you cook it. Fixed fan never gave any cooling issues and hassle free motoring.

Im more than happy to run the wire to the block but my schematic shows no connection to a designated earth in this case the block. A connection to earth is normally shown as an upside down lined triangle. Black pin 16 on ecu is the designation and using resistance check shows this is the correct wire at the TFI. Before going EFI I had it going to the block with the MSD.