LJDB

I've got a street fire msd and coil and I know about removing the module off the tfi but I had wired mine with it ages ago and i never seen a need to change it. The cars at my parents so I can't check it out but I'm pretty sure it's got no spark. I'm gonna remove the dizzy, check the msd and remove the module and see how I goes. The msd and street fire aren't that old so hopefully there ok

Sorry to jump in but will the tfi module just shit itself or give some sort notice before letting go. I broke down tonight and suspect the module as iv got no spark. I gave the car a flogging onto the freeway and it started to miss and cut out up top. Pulled over and it cleared up gave it another flogging and it happened again. Pulled over and turned it off this time, then it would start and stall until no start. First it looked like the secondary float got stuck but I fixed that and still no good.

how difficult is a single rail to strip down. Mine recently developed a noise at idle so I swapped it out for a spare I had laying around, only to find the spare one crunches 2nd on down shift. Would it be difficult to strip the 2 and use the good parts or better off buying another good one?

it developed a noise at idle after a good thrashing and got worse the hotter it gets. I pulled it down and change the input shaft/bearing over from one to another and checked it over. The bearing was noisy so i just changed the shaft over. It took me a couple goes to get it all back in, first i put the lay shaft in first and couldnt get the input shaft back in. Then 1 input shaft roller fell in so i had to pull it all back out. The syncros looked goo in both boxes. What should i look for in a worn syncro?

Any updates on this?

I had the best results by setting the primary the same as gerg, Then putting the carb up to light and adjusting the secondaries so the same amount of light coming through the primary butterflys is coming from the secondaries. Like gerg said if you adjust the secondaries to see the transfer slot they will be open to much. I had to pull the carb off a few times to get it so I had good adjustment each way at the screw.

What are people thought on fitting a Toyota sc14 blower to a 250 Xflow carb setup.

Yeah thats what iv been reading. Iv got most of the bits and pieces laying around, just thought it might be abit of fun. How would it compare to your average mild cammed 4 barrel na xflow.

I fitted a 85 amp vn I think v6( the one with a v belt pulley) and only had to space the bottom bracket and wire it slightly different. Really easy mod.

If your using a street fire msd with tfi the timing will be locked at the dizzy.

I had troubles with pinging and running on before i went tfi and streetfire msd. I also went 1 colder on the spark plugs. If your not short on coin i would go a programmable msd.

i unpluged the original am radio in my cortina and ran wires off the plug to a cd player in the glove box. pretty easy really, drill a hole big enough for the wires in the corner of the glove box and run them threw to the back of the cd player. Mine has a remote that i use that to change stations ect and close the glovebox when its parked or playing.

It turns over ok with a au starter but you can tell its got some comp. It will only ping when im being lazy, being 4 speed with 3.7 sometimes going back to 2nd is a bit much for cruising around town and 3rd pulls pretty good for overtaking. I also have another cam laying around which is very similar

Its not a crow but these are the specs. I couldn't run more than 28 degrees locked with a tfi and street fire msd, or regraphed XE dizzy using 98 with octane booster. The TFI definitely feels better and im spewing I didn't get a programmable 6al. Even now with the lowered comp I can only run 30 locked without booster.

Mine had a little over 11 comp and i had issues with pinging and couldnt run any timing. My unmarked hf4 has been machined a fair bit and has around a 47cc chamber. If you get a chance can you post a pic of your cylinder head chamber, I ended up lowering the comp with a head saver shim to around 10.3 to make it more friendly on the street. I've read others running high comp on 98 ect but mine didnt like timing.

if you wanna do it on the cheap get on ebay. I've picked up plenty of bits and pieces. i payed $80 for 2 falcon single rails, $150 for cortina manual conversion including another single rail, $180 for 2 250 xflow bottom end 1 reco and another that's balanced with a 220@50 520lift cam and lifters to suit. $400 for a redline 4 barrel manifold with a 570 street avenger. $150 for a 28 spline 3.45 complete diff (i only wanted the center). the hard part is finding a good modified cylinder head to suit your desired compression ratio on the cheap but if you have plenty of time you can try port one yourself as theres heaps around to play with. ive picked all this up over a year or so mainly as spares if mine decides to let something go.

another xflow? barra seems to be the go theses days or v8

Mine started with a 350 on 2 barrel redline manifold, then 500 on same manifold, now 570 street avenger on redline 4 barrel manifold. What I found is it made the power stronger and higher in the rev range. I drove around with the 500 for awhile and was pretty good all round, revs a lot better with the 4 barrel. This was all with seat of pants tuning so they could have been out except the 4 barrel which was/is being done with the O2 gauge. It will be good to see the difference in the aussiespeed manifold and with a DP. By the way I cant wait for this thread to take off and will be watching very closely. Good work Ando

the engine specs are almost identical to mine so il be watching very closely. i havent had mine on a dyno but goes pretty strong in a corty. What ignition will u be running?

I recently got my hands on a innovate mtx a/f gauge kit. Ive managed to get the a/f around 12-14 everywhere except at idle and wot. Iv got a lean a/f at idle around 16-17 and a constant 10.7-10.9 at wot. The carb is a holley 570 street avenger, fiddling with the mixture screws have little effect on the idle a/f ratio and ive tried to lean out the mains but they have little or no effect ay wot. Jetting is currently 62 in primary and 64 in secondary 8.5pv. It was previously 64 in the primaries and 70 in the secondaries with 6.5pv before I started leaning in out. I tied the secondaries shut and still get high 10-11 at wot but my cruise a/f is around 14.

Thanks Gerg, Il give it a crack. I was stumped at what I could be.

Drove down to a local car show yesterday and the car went pretty well. With the car the way it is now with the pink cam i have no flat spot when flooring it and it now has a rich spike for a split second. The wot is now high 11 but it has developed a lean surge at constant speed under very light throttle just off idle. Its not a real big issue as i'm rarely at that throttle position and it richens up either side of it.

The WOT doesn't clear up, I normally hold it in 2nd or 3rd to 6000rpm when checking the a/f. Ive restricted the PV a little more and will see how she goes over the weekend. I don't think its a squirter issue as it doesn't go rich straight after flooring it.

No offence taken Ronny i have basic knowledge of tuning a holley but have an understanding of the principals. Many of my post are mearly me experience with playing around with the carb and its effect on the a/f. Most of the time i try something and if it improves keep going in that direction if not go the other way. Il explain why i asked about the small secondary jets. If i have a good cruise a/f which is driving on the primary side and a rich WOT with is primary and secondaries open then the rich WOT is partly due to the secondaries, if i lean out the primaries more it will lean out my cruise a/f more. Is this correct? By the way i tested the car with pink pump cam in hole 1, 35 squirter and and changed from a 6.5pv to 8.5 and increase primary jetting to 62 and my bog is gone but WOT a/f is a fat 11.

Is it ok to run smaller jets in the secondaries than in the primaries. Im also going to try a different air filter set up as i've manage to fit a 12x3 drop base under the cortina bonnet with a 1/2 spacer and its tight under there. I've notice after setting the idle and refitting the filter the ratio changes quite a bit. Hoping to have a play tomorrow and try out everyones tips.