LJDB

Reworked the msd still no good. Pulled the tfi dizzy out and it's got shaft play. I'm not sure if it would be the cause as I cant see any marks on dizzy cap or dizzy wheel from it touching anything. It also doesn't spin smoothly by hand. Iv still got the module attached not really sure what it's function is though.

1/2 isn't much so it might fit better depending where the choke tower sits. I ment the spacer between the head and inlet. Definately goes better before the heat really gets into it.

I keen to give the conversion a go but I need to get the inlet spacer first. I run a large pod style filter on top of the holley that tapers to miss the bonnet bracing with a 1" open spacer. I did have a modified 3x14 drop base but with the aussiespeed manifold it sits alittle different and there wasn't a lot of clearance from the top and the choke tower. I may have also worked out my Rev limiter/ rpm issue. When I had the engine out I moved the msd and installed a kill switch on the earth wire. I also ran the power to main power at starter and earth to top starter bolt. Iv got voltage on the earth wire with the engine running and suspect it to get worse when it's working its ass of at revs. Il rewire it and take the kill switch out and recheck it. Its gonna be a warm one today so we'll so how I go.

Could the east west be substituted for a carb spacer. I got bugger all room too under the bonnet.

I still have to sort out the tune as I fitted an aussiespeed inlet at the same time as the cam swap. il wait till its tuned better but the old cam pulled the 3.45 better. The 510 seems to have a smooth broad power where the old cam cam on strong a pulled harder but not as broad

I dialed it in using TDC it went in dot to dot.

4 speed, tfi with module in a te cortina

I previously had them in it and didn't mind them for around town. I think it will love it. The new cam pulls hardest up top so the the 3.7 will bring it down abit but 1st will be short. I need to sort the miss/ rev limiter problem first

I checked the oil pressure today at work. At idle 25psi hot, 2k 45psi 3k 50psi and alittle over that was max oil pressure. Still not entirely sold on this cam. The power has definately moved up the rpm and pulls more revs. I still need to put the 3.7s back in the car as instructed by camtech. The cam before had more midrange/ torquer feel. I did feel a couple of times at wot what felt and sounded like the rev limiter(msd streetfire) at around 5k then cleans up. Need to look into it maybe the dizzy is on its way out

Il drop the oil and filter and check the oil pressure at work. The engine doesn't sound noise so maybe it's just the gauge. It is alittle slow to react on initial start up

Not sure if it's a coincidence or bad luck but it looks like engines coming back out. Went to take it for a drive this morning as I planned on doing the Xmas duties in it and notice the oil pressure had dropped a fair bit from when I had bedded in the cam. Checked the switch seems ok. Removed the rocker cover and dizzy and primed the engine a with a drill. Took awhile for oil to come out of Rockers and Afair bit of air bubble especially at no6 inlet. Continued priming to purge any air and no6 inlet continues to blow bubble with the occational bubble out of other rockers and a loud bubbly sound coming from the dizzy hole.

What is good oil pressure for a xflow. My cortina has a basic gauge in the dash with a bar for 0 to 7 with no oil pressure light.

I wasn't planing on using one but found one lying around. I did use sealer on it. What is the issue do they blow out or something.

Yes but I didn't have one for the pick up to pump so I used sealer.

Got the cam yesterday, done everything today. Didn't start straight away but pushrods where all turning. glad I followed your tip sly with the markings on the pushrod. Abit of relief when she fired and they all span. Pulled the engine out to fix some other bits. Took the hv oil pump out and fitted a std jp pump I had. Massive difference in the amount of oil in the head when running.

Thanks for the tips guys hopefully it arrives before Xmas. Sly do u mean start it then shut if off do some quick checks then start again and run for 20min. Or pull the rocker cover off while running and quickly check the pushrods are turning then refit.

if u had a solid and hyd cam with simlar lift, duration ect would they have similar characteristics on the road or would one perform better. Not strictly xflow but probably the best section to ask

I have another one with 8cc Pistons an that's over 11. I played with the cc in the head on the comp calculator on summit website. 1cc can make a fair difference each way

I'm currently putting one together 22cc prisons standard deck ect with 46cc head = 9.5

That's what I meant, a mild cam like above wouldn't be worth the extra effort of setting up a solid

Most solids have big lift and duration so there would be not point using one unless the combo was big. Say u had a solid with .500 lift and 270 adv duration, hydraulic would be the way to go or the solid would still we worth the extra effort.

I recently took the rear section off my TE Cortina and dumped the system at the diff. Its hi tech extractors into 2.5 with 1 cheap looking muffler. Its not overly loud but has a drone. Im thinking of adding a hotdog or changing the muffler. What people thoughts on a muffler and hotdog before the diff or any good mufflers that wont be to loud and still flow well on there own.

I cut the angle that did go over the diff and re welding it upside down as a dump slightly angled towards the rear quarter almost like a side pipe/dump. the hotdog I have is quiet heavy so not sure if I should add it as theres only one hanger in that area. I took the rear section off as it was 2 1/4 over the diff and at the bends it looked tiny and restrictive, Cortina has a weird exhaust route along drivers side up over and along the diff then out the passenger rear . It also sounded like shit at the rear .

What happened to this?

Got it sorted found the power wire at the dizzy to have backed out. Fixed the connector and yes the module is still on there, il get around to changing it one day.